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Bachmann Big hauler 4-6-0 Steam

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  • Member since
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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Monday, December 17, 2007 4:45 PM

Thanks everyone for the help.  Hopefully as get more knowledge I wont ask so many questions. Thanks again and Im sure you will here from me more.

 

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Posted by S&G Rute of the Silver River on Monday, December 17, 2007 2:44 PM
 SNOWSHOE wrote:

The front pony wheels seem to have plenty side to side movement when on the tracks.  I did not measure them though (dont have anything to measure with the scale)

You mentioned the drivers to take the cap off.  I looked on the back wheels and i dont see any caps in the center of the wheels.  All the back driver wheels do have side to side play.  Is that ok or should there be no play.  Thanks again

The wheelsets olny be in guage, 45mm, to work. The front pilot swings so that it can take those inposible sharp corners that come with the set. Don't worry the more play in a system the less it'll break. (to a point)

 

I think he was refering to lubricating the locomotive, on the underside of the loco there should be a plug, take it off and grease the gears inside. If there is no cap than you'll need to unscrew the bottom and lube them un that way.

 Hope this answers your questions

"I'm as alive and awake as the dead without it" Patrick, Snoqualmie WA. Member of North West Railway Museum Caffinallics Anomus (Me)
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Posted by kstrong on Monday, December 17, 2007 1:56 AM
FYI, the NMRA large scale wheel specs are flawed, and are currently being rewritten. When you're adjusting your wheels, go with the G1MRA (and widely preached) back-to-back spacing of 1.575". This will work on 95% of the wheels currently on the market. Some locomotives may be narrower, and a royal pain to adjust, but so long as they're no wider than 1.575", you'll be in good shape.

Later,

K
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  • From: SE, Virginia
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Posted by JD Miller on Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:44 PM

If a person does not have a caliper to check, for example, back to back wheel gauge there is a solution that won't cost as much as a caliper.

Aristo-Craft sells a Track and Wheel Gauge, ART 11906.  It is inexpensive. With this item the following can be checked: wheel back to back gauge, track gauge, track cross-level, track grade level, point spread, guard rail flangeway depth & width, guard rail span, and wing rail flangeway depth & width.

In other words this little combination track and wheel gauge covers all critical measurements to help insure smooth operation of your trains.

 

JD Cleveland, Delphos, and St. Louis RY Home of BUCK The Wonder Dog
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Posted by Rastun on Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:29 PM

It was from an NMRA set.

I should really know better Wink [;)]

 

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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Sunday, December 16, 2007 7:01 PM
 Rastun wrote:

Pony, Pilot, Lead.... The 4 wheels on the front truck.

Drivers the 6 bigger wheels

Make sure to give all the wheels a good cleaning and make sure to clean the track well. The other thing would be to make sure your wheels are spaced the proper distance (gauge)  Back to back distance should be between 1.567 and 1.586 with a target of 1.582 inches. The Pilot truck wheels can just be pushed together if they are to wide. The drivers you'll need to take the center caps off the wheels make sure they are tight against the axles and tighten the screws down.

I hope this helps you.

Jack 

 

The front pony wheels seem to have plenty side to side movement when on the tracks.  I did not measure them though (dont have anything to measure with the scale)

You mentioned the drivers to take the cap off.  I looked on the back wheels and i dont see any caps in the center of the wheels.  All the back driver wheels do have side to side play.  Is that ok or should there be no play.  Thanks again

  • Member since
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  • From: SE, Virginia
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Posted by JD Miller on Sunday, December 16, 2007 4:31 PM
The Gauge 1 standard for setting back to back wheel gauge is 1.575.  This has been the standard for years.  Don't know where that other figure came from, maybe NMRA, but it is incorrect.
JD Cleveland, Delphos, and St. Louis RY Home of BUCK The Wonder Dog
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    October 2004
  • From: Northwest Montana
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Posted by Rastun on Sunday, December 16, 2007 2:51 PM

Pony, Pilot, Lead.... The 4 wheels on the front truck.

Drivers the 6 bigger wheels

Make sure to give all the wheels a good cleaning and make sure to clean the track well. The other thing would be to make sure your wheels are spaced the proper distance (gauge)  Back to back distance should be between 1.567 and 1.586 with a target of 1.582 inches. The Pilot truck wheels can just be pushed together if they are to wide. The drivers you'll need to take the center caps off the wheels make sure they are tight against the axles and tighten the screws down.

I hope this helps you.

Jack 

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Posted by altterrain on Sunday, December 16, 2007 2:48 PM

No part lists or generally parts are available for Bachmann locos. Sometimes the Bachmann service dept. will have parts salvaged from locos sent to the shop. There is some info over at the Bahmann website. Pony wheels is referring to the pilot truck (front wheels).

-Brian 

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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Sunday, December 16, 2007 12:51 PM
Is there some sort of diagram pictures with the parts of the 4-6-0 train.  All the research I have been doing has parts I am not sure what they are or where on the loco it is locatewd.  Like the pony wheels?????
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Posted by two tone on Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:24 AM
Remember the tighter the curve the more stress you put on the motor 8ft rad is best  R3 curves are great ive had them for 4years and not had a prob with locosSmile [:)]

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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Posted by Mr_Ash on Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:25 AM

Its more than likely just the track, my 4-6-0's do the same thing on 4'-6' radius track. They seem to really like the 8' (R3) stuff though Smile [:)]

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Posted by JD Miller on Sunday, December 16, 2007 7:43 AM

Isn't that four foot diameter track?  That's what usually is supplied with Bachmann sets.

That is a tight curve, even for a 10-Wheeler.  It's normal for a locomotive, such as the 10-Wheeler, to slow going around such a tight curve. Clean the track and the locomotive's front and rear drivers along with the pony truck wheels. That should help.

Stick with the 1 amp power supply for the type of operation you are running. 

JD Cleveland, Delphos, and St. Louis RY Home of BUCK The Wonder Dog
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  • From: NJ (Kittatinny Mountains)
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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Sunday, December 16, 2007 7:12 AM
I am using the 4 ft Rad bachmann track with a 1 amp power supply. It did not slow down when I first started running the engine on the same track.  It is just temp now (running around the X-mas tree.)
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Posted by Mr_Ash on Saturday, December 15, 2007 9:59 PM
What radius curves are you using? err are you using Bachmann track? Confused [%-)]
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Posted by S&G Rute of the Silver River on Saturday, December 15, 2007 5:38 PM
They usually slow a little but it shouldn't be too to noticable. It sounds like you just "broke in" your loco.
"I'm as alive and awake as the dead without it" Patrick, Snoqualmie WA. Member of North West Railway Museum Caffinallics Anomus (Me)
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: NJ (Kittatinny Mountains)
  • 436 posts
Bachmann Big hauler 4-6-0 Steam
Posted by SNOWSHOE on Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:24 PM
I have a question concerning my 4-6-0 Bachmann.  When i first got it it ran very smooth.  Now it seems to slow down on the turns.  What is causing this, especially since it did not do it when I first used it.  I have the 1 amp power pack.  My guess is a greater amp power will speed it up.  I am using the 4ft track.  I want to say the tighter track is doing it since the straights the engine picks up speed and slowes on the turn.  Anything else can be done to fix this.  It is running around the x-mas tree for now but come spring I plan on bringing it outdoors, I will use a better pack for power and a 6.5 ft turns.  That should make a difference.  Thanks for the help.

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