Hey guys. I want to try scratchbuilding some track, but want to use Stainless steel rail because I will be entirely track powered. I know Aristocraft manufacturers track sections with this rail, but where can you buy the rail seperately? Also, what codes/sizes is it available in? I see vendors selling aluminium and brass, but not SS.
Help! Thanks.
Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/
Aristo used to sell 8 ft sections of single rail. I think there was about 12 rails per package, then you have to buy the tie strips separately. Now, I don't see it in their online catalog. Maybe someone else knows if they are still making it. At today's prices, you should make your track out of gold.
Paul
I remember seeing Aristo rail at ECLSTS last year but do not know if still available. Getting tie strips seemed to be the problems. Other sources -
H&R (good stuff) - http://www.hrtrains.com/trkprice.html
SVRR (new product) - http://www.svrronline.com/TrackandRail.html
Keep in mind stainless is hard stuff, so unless you have some metal shop equiptment making your own switches may be very difficult.
-Brian
Well, what I think I will do it cut my own ties from Redwood based on the article, and spike SS rail to it. I know it is tough, so I will certainly need a rail bender and a dremel. For switches, at least at first, I will use Aristocraft SS switches (their wide radius), and I might deconstruct them and spike them to my own cut ties. That way, the hard parts are done. I think that if I cut off a few ties at a time and then spike them, the switch won't fall apart into pieces. I know this is cutting up a perfect good switch just to make the ties match, but at the same time it is a good way to understand how to put one together.
I checked out the links. Thanks. By the way, is code 250 durable enough for outdoor use, or is it too small and more designed for indoor layouts. EGADS! The prices of SS is nearly 3 tiems that of alumimium. I knew that SS was more expensive, but I had no idea this much. Oh well, quality costs money.
scoobster28 wrote:...By the way, is code 250 durable enough for outdoor use, or is it too small and more designed for indoor layouts. ...
scoobster28 wrote: I know it is tough, so I will certainly need a rail bender and a dremel.
I know it is tough, so I will certainly need a rail bender and a dremel.
Yeah it will be but it can be done. Here is the rail bender I use, Swiss made, very handy! Also get extra stuff when you or if you buy it cause your bending SS and I bend Brass. And yeah I did buy extra stuff just incase. Very nice unit.
http://www.train-li-usa.com/railbender.html
Dremel will be good.
Toad
Note: Toadie is just a happy customer of this companies rail bender. And I get no kick backs!!
Hey Toad, it works just dandy on SS track as well!
Cutting stainless, I prefer a cut off wheel in my radial arm saw. I'd suppose one in a chop saw would work just as well! Cutting SS with the dremel is difficult to get a square even cut!
Capt.
Your right it is a great product!
Now I think about cutting SS and deburring it might be better on what you said a chop saw. That is what it is made for but have your files handy.
What are those portalbe band saw doing?? It would leave less burs (I would think) than chop saw. Just seen one with battery pack so you can take it to the RR MOW.
Anyways just ideas that pop or poop into my head from time to time...hope it helps.
Toadster
So, how is rail usually ordered? By the case, by the rail? Is it possible to ship the stuff, considering how long it is? I wanted to get a couple of feet to experiment with, but it looks like it will be much cheaper just to order in bulk.
Capt Bob Johnson wrote:Some folk around here just get the 4.5 or 5 foot straights, remove tie screws from what will be inside rail, and bend it with the train li! I may be doing that soon.
That ain't no lie, seeing how $$$ went up, and I still have time to play. Just make bulk turn out up at one time but then again I deal in brass so I need to find that old plumbers soildering iron. Can not remember what Watt, think it was a 40w?!
Toad (in day dreaming mode)
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