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G Gauge Solid Brass Curved Track Cutting ??? - Thank You All !!!

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  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Forked River, NJ
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Posted by WeeblesNJ on Wednesday, December 26, 2007 8:20 PM

Hello all,

I posted a newer more up-to-date photo gallery of my latest project here, as well as more photos of my Christmas Santa and Elves Gandy Dancer Car and also some photos from a road trip this past summer to Tuckahoe Station, NJ.  Here's the link URL: http://www.jimbangert.com/

Thanks again everyone for all of your help and Happy New Year to all!

WeeblesNJ - Jim

  • Member since
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  • From: Forked River, NJ
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Posted by WeeblesNJ on Thursday, December 13, 2007 12:24 AM

Hello Everyone!

Thank you everyone who posted their advice and comments to me and sorry for the delay in getting back to you all.  I did see that some here wrote in that you can't make a 50" circle smaller, well I guess that I can honestly say that I have accomplished just that.  After studying the circular track again, I did see that cutting off about a ¼" on both rails, from both ends shouldn't hurt and also by doing this, the ties would come in closer too and then it would also look more even as opposed to the more-so gap that is on the ends of each track where they join.  So, I did buy myself a new Dremel 300 and the accessory kit and of I went and my friend Tom also helped me too and he does have lot's of experience in G-Scale, so I'm glad that he came over to help me too.  We also cut the Aristo-Craft brass track stock joiners in half they would fit very nicely to the new improvised track as well and they we tacked solder to the joints and also mailed in the track pieces with black cut tacks. And it all came together very nicely and it is definitely a perfect circle and the rails themselves did not have to be bent in at all!  I'm not sure if I just got lucky or what, but it all looks perfect to me and I also tied a couple of trolleys on there at full speeds and no derailments at all!

Also, if I may back up some, after cutting the MDF board circle, I glued on a green grass sheet with 3M-77 Spray Tack Glue and then I also had some cork from the Cork-Store Online at 1/6" thick and I cut these in to 4 circular sections and also glued them over the grass paper and the whole thing looks pretty darn good to me and you can't even see the seams!

So, I am very thankful for all of your input and also for my friend coming over to help me and I also took some digital photos along the way and I have posted them in my own personal website for all of you to take a look at (http://www.jimbangert.com/christmas-trainboard)  Let me know what you all think and how I did and everyone thanks again an have a great Holiday Season and I know mine will be extra fun this year, watching my Christmas Trolley going around the Christmas tree!

Best Regards,

WeeblesNJ

A.K.A. - "Jim"

http://www.jimbangert.com/christmas-trainboard

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Posted by trainboy414 on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 7:59 PM
solve you problem by hand laying track or a filler sections to make the wood base bigger
__________ !_o_ !_ o _! !____!____! o OO = OO o
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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Tuesday, December 4, 2007 6:03 PM
Methinks it would be far less work to just cut a new circle to put the existing track on, cause you'd want some border outside the trackage or it's gonna look stupid; and it will help catch the inevitable derailment!
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Posted by Rex in Pinetop on Tuesday, December 4, 2007 5:37 PM

So you need to reduce the diameter by 2" to get to a 50" outside diameter then you must currently have a 52" diameter (at the ends of the ties) set of track.  Circumference is equal to pie D so my guess is you need to cut off about 6 1/4 inches of track length to get your 2" dia reduction.  That is a fair amount so you're going to need to do a little "belly bending" unless you can find someone with a rail bender.  Brass track bends easy so not a problem.  

I assume you're using Aristo track so first remove the tie screws on the inside rail so the inside rails slide free.  You don't need to put them back.  Then cut the inside tie connectors so they can "compress" to stay perpendicular to the rails when you make your tighter diameter.  A dremel tool makes quick work of this job but please wear eye protection.  I speak from experience unfortunately.  Since you already have the board cut I would lay the track where you want it by "belly bending" and cutting to fit.  The outside rail only has to be cut once but you will have to keep the inside joiners between the adjacent ties so yes you will have to do more cutting on the inside rails.  Slide the inside rail sections and cut the ends without the joiners. 

I also assume this is a temporary layout around a tree inside so you don't have to worry too much about the joiner set screws.  Tack the track down to the board and pinch the joiners tight and you should be fine.  Less than perfect bends at the connectors can be tweeked with some needle nose pliers.  If my assumption about this being a temporary setup is wrong then you're going to need some rail clamps to maintain your connectivity long term.

Good luck and Merry Christmas,

Rex

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Posted by Camaro1967 on Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:50 AM

But Bob, he is already starting with 5' curve. You can't run much on that anyway.

Paul 

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Posted by ttrigg on Monday, December 3, 2007 10:17 PM
Cutting the ends off of curved track will only make the pieces shorter, not tighten up the circle.  Weather you have twelve or twenty pieces of track in a five foot circle, you still got a five foot circle.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by SandyR on Monday, December 3, 2007 8:46 PM

How about the HLW barrel kit track? Do they sell that separately? It's a smaller diameter than the standard starter set circle, isn't it?

SandyR

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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Monday, December 3, 2007 7:21 PM
Everybody's forgetting the obvious here!  Less than 48" circle? Can't run much of anything on that!  
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Posted by Camaro1967 on Monday, December 3, 2007 5:47 PM

Brian and Norm are right,,REBEND.  I have actually done that to curves to make a siding even closer to the mainline.  It shouldn't take much additional bending to make them fit the board.

Measure once, CUT TWICE.  That's what I do.

Paul 

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Posted by dwbeckett on Monday, December 3, 2007 11:49 AM
Cuting the ends off would only give you shorter 5ft diam track. You would have to rebend the track to a smaller radious. With that in mind by bending your track first you will only have to cut one section to fill in. LOTS OF LUCK with this one.

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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Posted by altterrain on Monday, December 3, 2007 11:39 AM

 Like Norm sez -

 

Personally, I would recut the wood. Second option, find someone who has a Train-Li dual rail track bender and rebend the circle a bit tighter. If you just cut each track a bit you will get a small kink in the track at each connection. Plus you will need rail clamps at each cut to keep the track together.

-Brian 

 

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Posted by markperr on Monday, December 3, 2007 10:40 AM

Well Jim,

Unless you're a math whiz, I don't know of a ready formula that you could use to calculate exactly how much track you need to remove from each section to reduce the diameter two inches.   you would need to calculate how much to remove from each section both on the inner and outer track and then remove half of that from each section.  Once that's done, you still have to redrill and retap new holes for the Aristo screws.

It might be easier for you to take your leftover scraps of MDF, since they already have the same cut profile as the piece you've cut and make extender blocks that are say 1" deep by 3 or 4" wide and then spacing them every 10" or so around the perimeter.  Simply glue and tack them into place and then set the track on them.  Aristo track is quite sturdy and should hold the weight or your train over an 8" or 9" stretch.  Simply cover the whole thing with a tree skirt and you're home free.

Given your time crunch, this may be your best bet.

However, if you are still inclined to cut the track, feeling that this would be quicker, a rotary tool using a fiber reinforced wheel makes very short work of cutting a piece off of brass track.  Something in the neighborhood of three to four seconds per cut at full speed.  Just remember to wear your goggles.  I'm pretty sure Santa doesn't carry spare eyeballs in his pack. 

Good Luck

Mark

  • Member since
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  • From: Forked River, NJ
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G Gauge Solid Brass Curved Track Cutting ??? - Thank You All !!!
Posted by WeeblesNJ on Monday, December 3, 2007 1:10 AM

Hello all and Happy Holidays!

 I just found out the hard way after cutting a piece of 3/4" thick MDF Board in a perfect 50" diameter circle, that my Aristo-Craft 48" diameter brass track circle (12 sections) hangs over my board by an 1" all the way around.  I was making this board for my Christmas Tree and Train layout.  Well I really don't want to buy a new board and start over again, so I was thinking...

I saw that the curved track sections have more spacing at the ends, then the rest of the track tie spacing.  So I thought maybe I could some how cut the track and connectors by about a 1/4" on each end, section by section and that would tighten up my circle some then and it should then fit on to my 50" circle board.  I looked at the track sections themselves and I don't see how a little trimming off of the ends could hurt.

I'd please like to have your advice and to see if this has been done before and successfully and how.  Also, what it the easiest and least expensive way and time wise way and what kind of saws, blades or tools would I need to cut the brass track itself, as well as the end connectors.  I'm thinking a Dremel Rotary Tool maybe?  Any advice here would greatly be appreciated, especially when the Mrs. wants the tree up by next weekend!  Thanks everyone.

Jim - WeeblesNJ

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