Hi all,
I am looking for a small table saw to use in the "workshop" to cut wood and other things and wanted to get some different opinions. I was one at Lowes last night and saw a (pretty sure a Black and Decker) 10" table saw with stand, and all that for only $130. Would this be something good to start out with? Or is there something better out there? Any help would be appreciated.
P.S. I am not made of money, so low cost is pretty important. Thank you.
I'd have to agree with Kevin. A 10" Ryobi portable table saw Model# BTS20R. Check HD and Lowes for local availability. Should be in the $230.00 range. I've used mine ripping redwood and Trex boards with very little complaints from the saw. Then like Kevin says when it's not in use it can sit folded up against a wall taking up very little space. If you have those traveling tool sales come through sometimes they have this table saw factory reconditioned in the $150 range.
Jack
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I have a 10" Ryobi with stand. It comes with all the things you need to cut a straight line and such. The blade can be angled, its a very neat little tool. I have had it a few years and I still see them at HD for $99/on sale. Sometimes with or without the stand.
Measure twice, cut once.
Pete
My only recommendation would be that you actually start them up prior to making a purchase. I bought a Black and Decker 10" portable table saw that is direct drive and every time it starts up, it scares the bejeebers outta me. It's a very rough starting machine.
Mark
I have a DeWalt 10" that I bought at an auction. It was from a HD rental store, well used but in good shape. That was 4 years ago, and I paid $265. The fence is adequate but not cabinet grade, and extends to over 25" so you can rip a 4'x8' sheet of ply fairly easily if you've got run out support.
It's built a 1000 sq.ft. apartment, several deer blinds, and goat sheds, done almost all the cuts for 60 feet of trestle as small as 3/8"x1/2", the PTL ply and boards for approximatly 18' of tunnels and the exterior finish on my train barn.
It cuts as well as the blade that's on it, so what ever you get buy a good 40 or 60 tooth carbide and you'll get good service for years if you don't cut nails, staples, brads etc.
good luck with whatever you choose. and oh yeah make sure you have some kind of sawdust control. I use my shop vac, but the filter clogs pretty quickly, so I can't recommend that solution.
earlier this year i got a jet 15 amp 10" table saw, comes with legs (has good height). have used the hell out of it and has preformed really well. true work surface, fence is stiff enough, and a weight that makes it easy to transport. i see that menards has it on sale for $199, usually goes for around $280. $199 isn't the $130 price that you had mentioned, but the dependability, with this still economical table saw, will out weigh the small price difference.
good luck shopping, noble
If your purpose is for cutting wood for trestles and modeling and the like consider a saw for which you can get a zero clearance throat plate so you have no spacing around the saw blade when you are trying to cut wood smaller than 5/8ths.
I did not know about this when I bought my table saw (under $200) and have really regretted it.
Best,
TJ
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TJsTrains.com - Stop by - lots of pictures
Jack,
> it is possible to make zero clearance throat plates.
Appreciate the advice.
I have looked into that. The cut rate (no pun intended) Hitachi cheapie "work site" table saw has a recessed throat plate with a tab that hooks on the far end and recessed screw on the near end. So far, engineering my own plate has eluded me.
I have worked around the problem with a brute force kludge. I set my fence, lower the blade and then place a thin piece of ply on the table, then clamp it to the table top. This is more difficult than it should be because the saw's table does not have a single smooth or flat area on the underside. So I jury-rig blocks and chocks to get a spot to put a clamp.
Combined with my great respect for the cutty spinning blade thingy and my ardent desire to keep all apendeges attached to their original parts makes this a somewhat pulse pounding exercise.
When I finally get to where I can start scratch building more detailed stuff like buildings I may have to bite the financial bullet and upgrade to a better table saw.
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