Bachmann coupler conversion question

[Soulman]

I had no idea that I would create such an entertaining thread!

My understanding is that the D&RGW used full sized couplers, and that the Kadee 830/930's were a direct replacement for the Bachmann units. I have an Accucraft caboose; I really like their couplers, but, I recall that Bachmann and Accucraft are not interchangeable. I plan on adding additional Accucraft and Bachamnn rolling stock to the roster; Kadee seemed like the answer to my situation.

Kevin: I like the idea of drilling the small hole. Could you post a picture or two?

I've not had access to a computer for a few days. Thank you ALL for your thoughts.

[stanames]

Kevin

Great idea for attaching the chain.  I will have to try that out this winter. 

I tend to use the full size 830 rather then the 3/4 size 930.  Often some cars are left out all year including in the snow and in the 20+ years the railroad has been in operation, I do get some rust from time to time.  A little oil frees them up.  Never had any problems with unwanted uncoupling and in all that time only had one breakage (which was really my fault).  Guess New England rain and snow is different then Seattle rain.

Stan

http://www.tttrains.com/largescale

PS  In 1:20 the I find the Kadee coupler size is just about right on and is the most reliable coupler out there for long term operation.

 

[kstrong]

Ahh, there ya go. Run 'em in the rain, they'll get rusty. It's not that I'm lucky, it's just that I'm not crazy enough to run in the rain. On the other hand, if you waited for a sunny day in Seattle to run trains, your couplers would seize from dust, not rust.

With that, I'm off to EBT-land for the weekend. See y'all when I get back.

Later,

K

[Curmudgeon]

Inside.

Heated shop.

Run outside, Seattle weather.

You're just lucky, Kev.

[kstrong]

That could be because in 20+ years of using Kadee couplers on large scale trains, I've never had a rusted pin. You don't mention where the cars in your example were typically kept, but if they were outside, of course the pins will rust. So will axles and other metal bits. If the cars are kept indoors--even in relatively humid environments--they'll stay quite rust (and trouble) free. I've never had to oil or free a pin from anything but too much paint.

Later,

K

[Curmudgeon]

You could mention that.

But you'd be avoiding the issue of rusted pivot pins, which I expected.

You're not related to Stan, are you?

[kstrong]

*sigh*

Do I need to mention how many times I've seen ballast, twigs, acorns and leaves reach between cars and push up the pins up on Bachmann couplers, thus leaving half the train behind? Probably not. (This happens on Bachmann, USA, Aristo, and pretty much any coupler that releases from a pin.)

Nor do I need to mention what happens when a loco hits an obstruction and rolls over with the tight-mating Bachmann couplers rolling the entire train behind it. It's really cool when it happens on an embankment! High winds on a trestle? Hooooo, boy!!!! Talk about "fragile!"

Later,

K

Yes, folks, if you think the Normans and Saxons went at it for a long time....

[Curmudgeon]

Want me to post a photo of what's inside that "fragile" box?
Got the broken Kadees I can lay out and shoot for ya.

 

Weathered?
Okay.

 

Had a run Monday where the guy has about 1/2 Kadees.

Spent some considerable time freeing up rusted pivot pins.

If it's able to be attracted by a magnet, it will rust.

Know how we found the rusted ones?
Downgrade.

The weight of the train pushes one coupler against the little ear on the side of the other, forcing the coupler open.

Bottom of the grade, you leave half your train.

[kstrong]

Can't see that Cadillac front suspension coil spring stuck to the opposite side....

Yeah, but that can easily be hidden with a bit of weathering. How do you hide an oversized box?



Later,

K

[altterrain]

You two crack me up!

 

-Brian 

[Curmudgeon]

Not only that, but you seem to have made another "superior" modification to that ugly unit by whacking off that curved metal snag that used to hang down from it.

From this angle, looks like a USA coupler.

Can't see that Cadillac front suspension coil spring stuck to the opposite side....

[kstrong]

With the Kadees, the chain is strictly ornamental. What I do is to drill a very tiny hole just behind the pin on top of the Kadee, and stick the end of the chain into that hole. This gives the proper appearance, while maintaining the superior* appearance and operation of the Kadees.



This is on a locomotive tender, but the idea is the same. Careful not to drill too deep, or the chain will go into the moving jaw of the coupler, and it will no longer work.

Later,

K

*"superior" is obviously subjective. TOC and I have enjoyed a decades-old debate over the merits of Bachmann versus Kadee couplers, so I had to fire back.

[Curmudgeon]

What do you mean, what did they do with the chain?

It is attached to the lift bar, and to a pin that drops into the lift pin.

The original couplers as provided work with Kadees, but as long as you know that the most non-prototypical coupler available in LS, other than hook-and-loops, is the Kadee.

You cannot use lift bars anymore.

 Replace the coupler, and use it with your other Kadees, and you can manually uncouple the car.

[Soulman]

I recently bought a Bachmann 1:20.3 two bay hopper and installed Kadee 930's on it. I am VERY happy with the quality that Bachmann put into this product; I can't wait for further offerings.

Can anyone tell me what they did with the lift bar chain that was attached to the Bachmann couplers? I like the detail; but am willing to give up the functionality.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 Soulman