Question about spot tree watering

[FJ and G]

If you are using a drip irrigation method or just hand watering a tree with a hose, is there a problem with the water dripping (or falling) in just one spot?

I'm thinking that perhaps the surrounding root system that is not getting the water will be stunted in its development perhaps? Also, if the watering point is close to the truck, perhaps the outer roots will not spread/develop as well?

(I guess this topic would apply to shrubs and ground cover plants as well)

Thanks in advance.

[jhsimpson62]

When using drip system, I either run 4 1/4" lines with emitters to surround the tree or loop the 1/2" line and place 4 emmiters around the tree. As the tree matures you may have to move your emmiters to cover the outer roots. Normally by that time, they really don"t need watering since they will adapt to mother nature's watering.

[altterrain]

I just stick the hose down near the tree, turn the water on a slow stream and let it run for awhile. If the water is just hitting one area, I will move the hose after a bit. When installing drip irrigation I will typically install 2 or 3 feeds to a tree or large shrub. Water will diffuse out in an iceberg shape in the soil as it filters down.

-Brian 

[ttrigg]

For my scale size trees, I do exactly like with the full size ones.  Mound the soil up to form a bowl with the tree in the center.  Bowl fills with water, tree roots all the way around get a drink.  Not to worry so much.  All trees and shrubs will send roots in the direction of best water source, and best nutrient source.  The tree, above ground portion, will still grow well and maintain its shape, unless trimmed otherwise.  A prime example for me would be the wife's apple tree, it has very few roots within the "apron area" in which it is planted.  It has one major lateral root out under the lawn, for water, and one major lateral root down under the brick wall and up into the raised vegetable bed, lots of water and much nutrient.  The tree does just fine, produces about 80~90 apples a year, not bad for a dwarf tree.

[FJ and G]

Thanks for inputs. So from what I read, I gather that the consensus is that you cannot water in one spot but must move the hose around; otherwise, the root development would be most prominent in the place that is spot watered.

Tom,

Is your "bowl" rightsideup or upsidedown? I'm assuming u mean rightsideup, meaning that the tree captures the water in the bowl. About 90% of the trees in my neighborhood are the other way around, meaning the mulch around the trunk resembles in some extreme cases a volcano.

I often wonder if that is foolishness.

For one, the water isn't attracted into a "bowl" but is repelled off to the sides. Secondly, it would seem that a volcano around the trunk would do some evil things to the tree. For one, it would cause bark rot in the lower portion of the trunk. For another, it would encourage the roots to grow inside this "volcano" and not below ground level (relative to the surrounding ground level). I've seen mulch scrapped away on some of these trees and the entire root ball is above ground. This to me would seem to be inviting trouble should there be a strong wind or gale.

If anyone can shed some light on this topic, I'd be much obliged.

[ttrigg]

David:
By "bowl" I meant a slight depression on the ground.  Scrape away the top inch or two of top soil about 30 inches from the trunk of an established tree (of course I mean a 1:1 scale tree, for a 1:20 tree make that about ¼ inch and 2 inch), use this topsoil to make a ring mound, think of a 100,000 year old meteor crater.  If you are using an automated drip water system place the emitters on the ground.  Yes by all means fill the bowl about ¾ full of mulch, but keep the mulch away from the trunk of the tree (at least 3~5 inches) as it can cause a fungal growth in the tree bark.  If you are hand watering, just lay the hose down inside the ring and it will flow through the mulch and fill the "bowl".  If on the other hand your tree is 20~50 years old, don't worry about watering the base of the tree as it has long ago sent out lateral roots well into the grass area and is drinking the water faster than the lawn, hence the "nothing grows under my tree" syndrome.  A healthy tree will have a root branching that is above ground, not to worry as the lateral roots have spread out far enough to make the "tipping over" much less of a problem,  a mature tree will also have a good sized "tap root" that reaches many feet straight down, its main anchor system.

[Dick Friedman]

In either case, the basin around the tree fills with water faster than the water disburses underground, so once the basin is filling, water encircles the tree and sinks into the ground.  Unless you soil is pure sand, this will provide adequate water.

 When the tree is established, it will get water from natural sources.

 I've had drip watered trees for 30 years here in Sacamento, and never lost one to lack of water.  When the trees were young, I watered the ten to twelve hours once a week.  Now I've got a timer that limits me to 99 minutes, so I do that three times a week.  

Works fine for me. 

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Using mulch to make a tree volcano or getting it real thick around a tree trunk invites insect infestation.

[Ray Dunakin]

Hey FJ, I thought your beagle was in charge of spot tree watering. ;)