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Steam Power?

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Posted by altterrain on Wednesday, August 22, 2007 6:43 PM

There are some new pics of the Aristo live steam 0-4-0 posted here -

http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=10278

-Brian 

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Posted by Semper Vaporo on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 1:08 AM

I take some issue with the comment about "kits" needing "metal working skills".  Some kits do require you to be a machinist, but others, like the Ruby from Accucraft and any of the Aster kits do not require a lathe or mill, or even a drill!  At most, you might need a small file to clean up a hole or to smooth a rough edge (I used the file on my Swiss Army Knife!), but the main skill is to be able to follow instructions (granted that is very difficult for the average American Male).

It helps if you have a working knowledge of what a steam locomotive is, and how it works, but even that can be inferred from the task of assembling the pre-machined and pre-painted parts.  They are called "screw-driver kits" because all you need to assemble them is a screw-driver which is usually supplied with the kit.  WELL... that and some small wrenches (usually supplied) and a little piece of sand paper (also supplied) to "lap the valve surfaces" (the only really tedious aspect to me) and a tube of caulking compound (also supplied) to seal steam connections (use it sparingly).

The kits come with the most important part already assembled... the boiler is pre silver soldered and safety tested.  All you do is attach the piping using threaded bushings.  Everything is already engineered to fit and work.

I liken the "G"-gauge kits to assembling a (high end) model car or airplane.  Just LOTS more parts (in most cases) and when you are done... IT WORKS! 

And since they bolt together, there is no holding delicate little parts whilst the glue sets and no glue to frost the windshield so 'Spaceman Spiff' can't see the mountain side!

Many burn butane for fuel, but others burn alcohol.  When you get good and hooked on the hobby, you can get coal fired locos!  (Or just jump in with both feet and start there!)  You do need to supply distilled water for the boiler (better than plain tap water, eliminates lime-scum/scale buildup in the boiler).  All also need Steam Oil for lubricating the cylinders and a light machine oil for the moving parts.  YOU get to perform the time honored procedure of "Oiling Around" while it builds steam pressure.  After all, they ARE "real" Steam Locomotives.

Note: I called it "G-gauge" (and not "G-scale")  G-gauge track (45-mm or 1.75-in) represents anywhere from 'Indusrial' (2-ft) gauge (7/8-inch scale [1:13.7]), to 'American Narrow' (3-ft) gauge (1:20.3), to 'Meter' (39.45-inch) gauge (1:22), to 'standard' (4' 8.5") gauge (3/8-inch scale [1:32]).  There is also a strong following of 'standard' gauge at 1:29 scale.

Of the "factory" made locos, Accucraft's "Ruby" is probably about the least expensive "Railroad" looking locomotive and just about anything Aster is the most expensive.  "Ruby" is "simple" (?) and "Aster" is "museum quality".  The other postings here have listed some other manufacturers and there are many other companies that make live steam rail vehicles and many individual home shops that make very small semi-production runs of all sorts of locomotives.

Just about every type of real Steam Locomotive has been modeled in some manner or other.  There are commercial and home shop offerings of Geared locos (Shay, Climax, Heistler) and Side Rod locos(0-4-0 through 4-8-8-4 and various Beyer-Garratt models), etc. representing prototypes from just about any country you can imagine.

Although some of these "G"-gauge engines are capable of hauling a full sized adult around, the small size of the cars (and their limited load capacity) generally means nobody does it, except as a stunt for the WOW factor fun of it.

By the way, I get over an hour of run time with my Aster Mikado's on one fuel-up, but actually can keep it in steam and running for as long as I can put up with topping off the water in the tender, re-fueling, refilling the steam oil reservoir, and a moment of "Oiling Around"... just like the real engines could be run into the ground with just stops for the same reasons.

Granted, it takes longer to get the steamer up and running than just plopping the toy electric train on the track and turning on the juice.  Also, you need to pay attention to the operation of the engine.  Watch the water level, check the pressure, maintain fuel and water in the tender.  Speed needs to be monitored.  Unlike the electric toy that will pretty much run at a constant speed up and down hills, the steam loco needs a hand on the throttle.  If the railroad has no ups and downs, then you don't have to keep such tabs on the speed... but if you have radio control, then you don't have to chase after it!  It is a JOY to R/C a live steamer! 

Put the Reverser (Johnson bar) in the corner of the quadrant, crack the throttle and the Loco starts to pull the train.  When you get up to speed, "notch up" on the Reverser to put it in "the Company Notch" to save steam and extend the run before you need to stop for water.  Widen on the throttle to go up a hill, and close it to drift downhill.  The engine "CHUFFs" in time with the side rods, because the chuff is REAL.  The wisp from the stack is STEAM and on a cool day it can drift back over the consist just the way the coal smoke does on a 1:1 steam locomotive.

See:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyP4gDzLIic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLbC0rkNghM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oejgZdaNidQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PweRsxbN3c

(Well, okay, the sound in that last one is just in my head!)

SEMPER VAPORO!

 

Semper Vaporo

Pkgs.

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Posted by kovacjr on Sunday, August 19, 2007 9:55 PM

Well that depends on the scale that you are looking for. You can get ready to run and kit engines in many scales and price points. You can start in Gauge 1 for about 400 for a 0-4-0. If you are interested in something larger there are many at the 1500.00 and lower price point

 Accucraft USRA 0-6-0 1:29 about 1300.00

Accucraft 2-6-0 Mogul 1:20.3 about 1500.00

Accucraft 4-4-0 American 1:20.3 about 1600

 Accucraft Shay 1:20.3 about 1400.00

Aristocraft spoke of and made a sample of a new 0-4-0 last winder but nothing has been heard of since.

Mamod makes some entry level ones for around 300.00

Roundhouse makes some great running entry level steamers b ut the price is not so entry level anymore. The exchange rate makes them way out of reach.

All the listed loco's have different features. Some have sight glasses on the boiler, run times range from 18-45 mins

 

If you want some more info on live steam I suggest looking over on www.Mylargescale.com and looking in the Live Steam forum. Much more info then here.

 

I have gone over to the steam side a few years ago and now have 5 in the roundhouse including:

Accucraft Ida

Accucraft Mich/Cal Shay

Accucraft K28

Accucraft Mogul

Aster Climax

 

All are great runners, some will need a amall amount of tuning to get them to run to their best ability.

 

Jay

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Posted by whiterab on Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:54 PM

Ben,

As was said previously, Live Steamers come in all scales from HO up to foot guage.  The most common and the most redily available is in G guage (45 mm).

The cheapest I know of is the Ruby.  I wouldn't recommend starting with a kit unless you have basic metal working skills and lots of time.  

The learning curve for running live steamers doesn't take long.  After a few runs you will have it all figured out.

I run both electric and live steam on the same track with no problems.  The  rod steamers are more touchy about grades than their electric counterparts.  I have a K-28 and 2.7% grades.  I just have to up the throttle to go up the grade and more importantly throttle way back to go down-grade.  While I don't have a Ruby, my friends do report that it doesn't like grades at all which make sense when you look at it's size and wheel arrangement, you can see where it would have problems.

The geared steamers such as the Shay really don't care about grades.  They go a scale 8 mph up-grade, down-grade and on the flats.  However, is really does care about the radius of your curves. 8 ft diameter is certainly a must to run it.

While live steamers are more expensive than the electrics, I have had far less maintenance problems with the steamers.  Being mostly metal they are far more robust than my Sparkies.

It takes me about 20 minutes to get up to steam pressure for the first run of the day and about 10 minutes for subsequent steamups with the same engine.  Run times very with the engines.  The K-28 is large and will run about an hour on a full charge.  The Shay has a smaller boiler and gas tank and runs about 20 minutes at most.

There is a lot of help out there for beginners.  There are no live steamers in my area and I had to learn by asking questions on the web and reading up on it.  I had no problems as my first engine was quite forgiving of my mistakes.

One more word on cost.  Live Steam is Very addicting.  Garden Railroading is not cheap to begin with and live steamers will run you out of spare cash quickly.  I'm okay now in that there is only one more steam engine I want (well, maybe two).

Joe Johnson Guadalupe Forks RR
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Posted by cabbage on Saturday, August 18, 2007 12:33 PM
Well I have two steam engines -one I built from a kit and the other I designed from scratch... I did use the Aus regs as a guideline to building my boiler -it was nice to have some specifics!!! However it is not something that I would recommend to a beginner. The loco is the 18th that I have built -and even then I made more than a few mistakes...





16mm Kits are available from Roundhouse and Mamod. OO steam locos are available from Hornby.

regards

ralph

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Posted by John Busby on Saturday, August 18, 2007 6:30 AM

Hi deathwing

They come in a variety of scales and gauges.

Some manual some RC some even need track power as well

They are not cheap nor are they a toy, steam engines get hot don't ask how I know

I have two which are nominally 16mm scale and run on 45mm gauge.

They cost approx $2000 AU each add approx 30% to convert to US price these where mid range RTR locomotives of reputable brand.

You can get kits but they are not five minute jobs as the workie bits must be got just right or it will not run.

As with mine ready to run.

Or last if you have the engineering know how and equipment you can build your own.

Bearing in mind the boiler and firing system must be built according to any local regulations or standards using good engineering practice, in AUS we are lucky in having standards to follow for most things.

They are an enjoyable part of the garden RR hobby and treated with respect and care they should be very safe

They are the closest thing most of us will ever get to driving a real train

regards John

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Posted by altterrain on Friday, August 17, 2007 9:24 PM
 cokeoven wrote:
 altterrain wrote:

Also AristoCraft is working on a little 0-4-0 live steamer that will be the little brother to its big Mikado steamer..

-Brian 




does anybody have any information about this new aristo-craft live steamer? Any idea on how much its gonna cost, and when will it be out?

According to this thread - http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=9836 the head honcho says the 0-4-0 will be out in next Spring and then a live steam Rodgers (2-4-2) after that.

-Brian


Bruce,

There I go, wrong again Whistling [:-^]. According to the missus, I'm never right Sigh [sigh]. Nice pics though.

-Brian 

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Posted by cokeoven on Friday, August 17, 2007 7:22 PM
 altterrain wrote:

Also AristoCraft is working on a little 0-4-0 live steamer that will be the little brother to its big Mikado steamer..

-Brian 




does anybody have any information about this new aristo-craft live steamer? Any idea on how much its gonna cost, and when will it be out?
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Posted by TheJoat on Friday, August 17, 2007 6:03 PM

You do NOT need level ground for live steam.  I have 4% grades and my live steam Shay runs great.   It does take about 10 minutes to get going, then I have about a 30 minute run.   Refueling and water takes about 5 minutes - since everything is pretty hot.

Now, if you do not have level ground, I'd get radio control for a rod engine.   I had a buddy bring over a C-21 and it ran just fine on my layout.

Bruce
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Posted by altterrain on Friday, August 17, 2007 3:27 PM

Indoor running is not a great idea unless you have a permanent layout designed for it. They can be quite messy with water, oil and smoke (especially the ones running on coal). You can hunt around this site for some prices of large scale steamers - http://www.quisenberrystation.com/. I think Rubys start around $400.

-Brian 

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 17, 2007 1:28 PM

Thanks Brian for letting me know that they can only run on lvl ground i did not know that. That one simple fact will make me (if i ever do get into them) use them inside only.

Thanks Robert i was not sure if they came in HO size or not

Finally Alex exactly how expensive are we talking? I looked for them online and could not really find anything helpful. How much would and engine be?

Thanks

Ben

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Posted by alexweiihman on Friday, August 17, 2007 12:49 PM

They are very expensive!

 

Alex

K-Line The Difference is in the Details
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Posted by GearDrivenSteam on Friday, August 17, 2007 12:09 PM
They are available in HO all the way to 1/1.
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Posted by altterrain on Friday, August 17, 2007 12:08 PM

Live powered steamers almost seem to be a seperate hobby in itself. Its fun to watch them run but it looks like an hour of fiddlin' to get a 20 minute run (and only on level track). Its not for me, I like my electricity. The Accucraft Ruby (in kit or pre assembled) and its sisters seem to be a pretty popular and lower cost way to start. Also AristoCraft is working on a little 0-4-0 live steamer that will be the little brother to its big Mikado steamer. A search on YouTube will pull up many vids of them.

-Brian 

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Steam Power?
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 17, 2007 11:44 AM

Ok i have seen and heard about steam powered engines but i never found out what scale they come in? Also do you make them yourself or buy them? I always thought that they looked and acted really cool.

Thank

Ben

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