What I expected.
Anytime I have seen Bachmann gears spin on the axle it is because they have split.
Possibly and probably could happen without splitting, but I just haven't had that happen.
Addendum: I removed the drive gear cover plate and discovered that the nylon gear has a large crack in it.
Curmudgeon wrote: On the entire railroad, 130+ pieces of rolling stock and probably 20 locos, the ONLY ball bearings not on loco axles are on the tender trucks of my Magnus K-27.These are out-of-the-box Bachmann, Delton, LGB and USA cars, all 4-axle.The trick is I am fully 100% self-contained, on-board radio/battery on never-cleaned aluminum track with the plating long since worn off the drivers. In wet weather, 12 cars max. Several on these forums have witnessed this being done.In fact, I will pop a coupler before I overload the Shay.
On the entire railroad, 130+ pieces of rolling stock and probably 20 locos, the ONLY ball bearings not on loco axles are on the tender trucks of my Magnus K-27.
These are out-of-the-box Bachmann, Delton, LGB and USA cars, all 4-axle.
The trick is I am fully 100% self-contained, on-board radio/battery on never-cleaned aluminum track with the plating long since worn off the drivers.
In wet weather, 12 cars max.
Several on these forums have witnessed this being done.
In fact, I will pop a coupler before I overload the Shay.
EH Dave,
All I can say is, what ever clicks each individuals Bic, RIGHT !!!
Byron
Curmudgeon wrote: Also, I haul, every operating session, between 28 and 34 cars up 150' of 4% grade with ONE Bachmann Shay, unassisted, no wheel slip.
Also, I haul, every operating session, between 28 and 34 cars up 150' of 4% grade with ONE Bachmann Shay, unassisted, no wheel slip.
I'd really like to see and hear that engine in operation doing that, are the cars all ball bearinged ?? Four axle or two axle cars ?? Also what mods from stock out of the box, have been made to accomplish that ?? Lastly I know this is a low gear loco, and also that the stock shafts will fly apart if run TOO fast, happen to know of a gent who can run his at super speed mode though, tell ya how it was accomplished if ya wanna know......
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
Did anyone stop to think why the gears strip? I have replaced several for customers and everytime they tell me they PUSH the engine by hand to couple cars. I have one that I use on my show displays and it has run for years--when ever they first came out! Bachmann Spectrum products are very good. But like most products they are no better than how they are handled. I have had in my shop, nearly every product in the large scale hobby and I think we have some pretty good stuff available to us. But like cars, some of us like one better than the others!!!
Ralph
Fall Creek
Rex in Pinetop wrote: Model aircraft engine props are secured to the crankshaft by a compression nut allowing the prop to break away if it comes to an abrupt halt as in an unplanned/uncontrolled landing to prevent too much damage to the engine. I would be reluctant to key/pin a gear in a part that might be designed to break away in the event of a lockup. That said I would consider adding a set screw through the gear collar to a small flat spot ground into the axle as a repair to one that has come loose. But if the gear is split then there's not much you can do but replace it.Another source for gears is the R/C car and truck world. Those guys keep changing gears to soup up their racers so the hobby shops that cater to them always seems to have lots of gears on hand. Tower is a fast mail order source for those if Bachmann parts are hard to get.My two cents,Rex
Model aircraft engine props are secured to the crankshaft by a compression nut allowing the prop to break away if it comes to an abrupt halt as in an unplanned/uncontrolled landing to prevent too much damage to the engine. I would be reluctant to key/pin a gear in a part that might be designed to break away in the event of a lockup. That said I would consider adding a set screw through the gear collar to a small flat spot ground into the axle as a repair to one that has come loose. But if the gear is split then there's not much you can do but replace it.
Another source for gears is the R/C car and truck world. Those guys keep changing gears to soup up their racers so the hobby shops that cater to them always seems to have lots of gears on hand. Tower is a fast mail order source for those if Bachmann parts are hard to get.
My two cents,
Rex
Actually, if the gears are made similarly to those in the how to I posted, they can be repaired.
Sounds like you may be getting some good direction Charles. What surprises me is the different opinions on manufacturers. I can't say I prefer one over another. I have Bachmann, Aristo, LGB and I have had New Bright. All of which have given me problems for one reason or another. But, for the most part when I finally slowed down and analyzed what I was doing I found that most of the problem was me. Didn't lubricate, didn't quarter properly, unseen mechanical interference, ran locomotives beyond what should be expected. I almost trashed my 0-4-0 Aristo switcher, but rebuilt it and made some suggested pick-up improvements and now I am enjoying it better than when I first bought it. I run it keeping in mind its limits. My LGB Toy train loco stripped its gears twice. It is a kit bash now, but the problems it had were really my fault. I just read my second sentence, it doesn't really surprise me about the different opinions because I do know most on this forum have an opinion and will share it.
You might want to find out WHY the gears are stripping. I had gears stripped on my 2-8-0. Closer examination revealed one of the counterweights was not tightened down enough. And, when it got in the way, I applied power. More power. Gear stripped.
When I had it apart, I was quite impressed with what Bachmann has done with this locomotive. Sprung drivers. I made sure it ran smooth without any motor. When I put the new gears back in, she runs very nicely.
He has a prototype motor/gearbox for the Bachmann 2-8-0, just not quite in production.
Call him, maybe it will jostle him off TDC.
vsmith wrote: Give Barry at "Barrys Big Trains" a call, I do believe he has a replacement for this problem. When I was at the BTS he had on display a replacement gearbox that corrects this apparent issue. Check for him in the "links" sticky at the top of the forums
Give Barry at "Barrys Big Trains" a call, I do believe he has a replacement for this problem.
When I was at the BTS he had on display a replacement gearbox that corrects this apparent issue. Check for him in the "links" sticky at the top of the forums
vsmith,
Thanks for the information about Barry's Big Trains. I had checked his web site a couple of years ago, but had forgotten about his conversions.
Rex-
I think we need to talk.
You have my number.
That engine you show.....wheel-to-axle joints.
Keep an eye on gauge. Fixable, but takes a lot of work.
Have fun with your trains
Snoq. Pass RR wrote: I will say that again and again and again and again and.......you get the point. Owner of three Bachmann locomotives that have had ZERO problems........more Bachmann locos to come.
I will say that again and again and again and again and.......you get the point.
Owner of three Bachmann locomotives that have had ZERO problems........more Bachmann locos to come.
As I said, "MY OWN PERSONAL EXPERIENCE OVER THE YEARS", what ever clicks YOUR bic or meets YOUR fancy as to YOUR own choices and needs. More power to YA ......
And YES, you have maybe provided the answer for this person that they were maybe looking for to resolve the problem they are experiencing.
Look at my Pictures, the ARISTO Mallet is pulling over 30 cars and not even any ball-bearing trucks on them. And that's nine/9, USA passenger cars on 2 to 4% grades........
Never seen any BACHMAN, do the same......
Odd.
Usually the gear teeth strip if they're going to go.
Did you replace the entire axle/gear and gearbox assembly?
I don't have one apart right now, but do they have a hub on the gear?If so, I'd drill and pin it to the axle.
USUALLY if a Bachmann gear spins, it has split.
Look close to see if the gear is split from one valley to the hub.
I've been running two in HEAVY service, trying to kill either, and haven't, and we will do 10 cars up and down 4% grades.
So, pull the axle, inspect the gear, clean all oil and grease off axle and gear, cross drill, pin,then run a bit of thin CA between.
http://www.2guyzandsumtrains.com/Content/pa=showpage/pid=47.html
First off, Bachmann is a great company (unlike some on the top of my head.......A----o *#^%@ Crap....). Sure you can run them, but can they haul.........NO, Bachmann YES.
You want steam engines, buy Bachmann and LGB. You want diesel engines, buy USA. You want live steam engines, buy Accucraft and Roundhouse and etc. al.
cacole wrote: I now have two Bachmann 1:20 scale 2-8-0 Consolidations with stripped gears. I purchased a replacement axle and gear set from Bachmann last year to repair one of the Connies, but it has now also stripped. It seems that the lousy Bachmann nylon gear strips loose from the axle and just spins and spins but the locomotive won't move.
I now have two Bachmann 1:20 scale 2-8-0 Consolidations with stripped gears. I purchased a replacement axle and gear set from Bachmann last year to repair one of the Connies, but it has now also stripped. It seems that the lousy Bachmann nylon gear strips loose from the axle and just spins and spins but the locomotive won't move.
Maybe it's just me and what I choose to run and want to have/model on my line, but I pretty much subscribe to the DBB theory/rule, after a good amount of experience over the years in "N", "HO" and now "G" scales. That theory/rule, Don't Buy Bachman.
Granted they all---Manufacturers that is---have their inherent flaws, that inevitably, always show up. But over the years those flaws seemed to, mind you "to ME" be more inherent or evident in the Bach. engines. Maybe it's just me and my own personal preference/experience though.......But nothing seems to last like the "OLD" LIONELS, when it comes to just being able to run'em---kinda like the Bunny---know what I mean.....
No doubt though, someone has come up with a fix, for the problems you are experiencing on that particular model, and they will eventually be able to supply you an answer/solution.
Cacole, I don't know how it's made, but here is a how to on how to repair split gears on an N scale bachmann. If it's anything close, maybe this can give you some ideas.
Cacole:
Wouldn't a good quality epoxy work? I'm guessing because I've never tried to repair a problem like this on a model train and don't have a good feel for the torque values that are generated. You'd have to do some preliminary prep like countersinking the gear at each end to give a place for more epoxy, roughing the axle for a better grip, etc. Failing that, can't you drill it through and pin it? (If it isn't a large-dia gear). Ain't easy, but it'd sure fix the problem.
Les W.
Does anyone make a replacement gear and wheelset with a metal gear? I'm giving up on Bachmann's parts.
EDIT: Bachmann uses a 26 tooth nylon gear that measures .624 inches diameter. It is press fit onto the metal axle, and seems to break loose very easily. This is the third Bachmann gear that has stripped loose from the axle while pulling no more than 4 AMS cattle cars and a caboose on level track, with ball bearing wheelsets in all of the rolling stock.
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