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O-Scale Outdoors

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O-Scale Outdoors
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 27, 2007 12:33 PM

Hey all, I have a question about setting up an O-Scale railway outside.   I only have about 250-300 sq ft to work with so I am wondering what resources are available to make this happen.   I have seen plenty for G-Scale in the forums.

I am looking for you thoughts (i.e. 'best' in your opinion) on track manufacturer based on how well it holds up to the elements, cost per foot\meter, maint requirements, etc.  I have read other posts about stainless being the best, toughest, and costliest but since I am not a rail-barron's grandson Smile [:)], I don't have lots of money laying around for buying stainless track at $100(US) per foot.

Also, are there many buildings in O-Scale for outside layouts?

Any other thoughts you might have with regards to O-Scale outside, please share as I only have experience with G-Scale outside based on my dad's railroad.

Thanks,

Vic

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Posted by FJ and G on Friday, July 27, 2007 1:50 PM

I submitted an article to GRR regarding this but haven't yet heard back from them (the story was preapproved for submission, which, of course, doesn't guarantee its publication).

I model O scale 1:48 outdoors on O gauge track but am slowly converting to 1:13.7 on O gauge track.

 

In short, it can and has been done, although as far as I can tell I'm the only 1:48 person doing it on 2 rails (others in the UK and elsewhere do 16mm etc on 32 mm track).

 

Not much different than larger scales and you can put a lot more train and track in a smaller space. Wise choice.

 

The largest "scale" O scale rail in prototype you'd want to use would be about code 170, which would represent the largest rails laid on the prototype. I'd go with that due to ballast getting on the track and messing with the flanges

 

Also, I'd consider doing a raised layout so you can see the trains from eye level (at least seated). redwood benchwork or garden stones and fill would raise it

 

RC is feasible with all O scale trains but for smaller locos you might need to get creative with AA batteries and onboard control; although small R/C units are available that work well

 

there's so much more to say but hard to know where begin; if you have specific questions; pose them but I'm out till Monday and won't be online

 

so have a nice weekend and please pursue your interest as it is doable 

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 27, 2007 2:26 PM

Thanks so much for the feedback.   I am glad to hear that it is doable.   When you have a moment, can you tell me what kind of track you are using?

Sorry to show my ignorance but I don't know everything (yet)!Clown [:o)]   What is 'code 170' track?   Are there different types of O-Guage track for outdoors?  I see some listed at O-Guage and some listed as O-27.  What's the difference?  Diameter is what I suspect.

Thanks,

Vic

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Posted by EMPIRE II LINE on Friday, July 27, 2007 3:03 PM

 

Depends on whether you plan to do two rail or three rail "O" scale, I plan to do three rail and I've chosen to use Gargraves Stainless steel track on a raised support system, similar to what I've done with my "G" scale.

Here are a few shots of my "G" scale system. Curves were supported with a ladder system, designed from PVC 4 By 8 sheets, 1/2 inch thick, and strait runs using 6 inch gavanized steel studs, all supported on 1 inch PVC piping, in the ground.

The plan is to support the "O" scale similarly.

Byron

 

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Posted by cabbage on Friday, July 27, 2007 3:32 PM
Well -speaking as one of those "UK and elsewhere" people who do 16mm scale on 32mm track... I run my hand me down Basset Lowke O scale, (1:43 in the UK), locos on the same track I run my 16mm scale models on. SO I have to say that there is no difference between PECO SM32 track and "O" Streamline code 143 as far as my "O" scale locos are concerned.

The track is Nickel Silver and has stood up to some severe abuse -such as being walked on repeatedly by small children!!!

regards

ralph

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Posted by altterrain on Friday, July 27, 2007 4:50 PM

The August 2000 issue of GR featured an O scale indoor/outdoor (mostly outdoor) as its cover story. The layout ran Lionel trains on Gargraves 3 rail stainless track. The outdoor part of the layout featured lots a great handlaid stone retaining walls and concrete viaducts.

-Brian 

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Posted by FJ and G on Friday, July 27, 2007 7:29 PM

I also would be remise to point out there was an "outdoor" 2-rail O layout in GRR several years back or so up in Washington State. A big layout at that but not quite completed as it still had to be ballasted and much of it was actually covered by some sort of awning. He used code 148 if I recall which is 148/1000 inch high.

Atlas, Right O Way and others like Old Pullman sell tracks.

 

Gargraves is 3 rail and the Aug 2000 issue which I have used balsa wood, which needed treatment. About the best track to hold up outdoors would be Atlas Nickel silver with plastic ties but I'm not sure if the poster wants to do 2 rail or 3 rail and if he wants to handlay the track or not and if he wants remote control or track power. More info would help 

 

to answer other question, broadly speaking, anything from about code 125 or even slightly less up to code 332 (for 7/8 scale) could be used for O gauge track, depending on the scale you are doing. O scale is 1:48 so the range would be around 125 to around 172. Code 148, representing 135 lb rail is widely available but not sure about the larger code, although I know it existed at some point

 

I would suggest the largest rails possible that you can live with. Heck, if true scale doesn't bother you, code 215 would be best from a maintenance standpoint.

 

but code 148 is still good if you have the patience to brush debris from the track with a whisk broom; although giving a good soaking with diluted (water to concrete bonding solution 1:1 will keep your ballast in place, rain, shine or snow, with no evidence that it's in use. My friend, who does 3 rail O outside swears by it and has a 100 lb dog. My beagle is 25 lb and charges around a lot after rabbits and it keeps the ballast together pretty nicely (but you can shake it loose by hand vigorously if you want to change your track plan). 

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Posted by dougdagrump on Friday, July 27, 2007 9:31 PM

Here is a link to a real nice outdoor 3 rail "O" setup, hopfully it will answer some of your questions.

http://web.mac.com/hankb/iWeb/wrr/Home.html

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Posted by FJ and G on Saturday, July 28, 2007 9:04 AM

doug,

 

Outstanding site! Hope it encourages more.

 

tells you how he did the work. In comments, Wild Bill from Reno mentioned. His layout is pretty cool too.

 

So there, you see it can easily be done. 

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:47 PM

Thanks everyone for the input and detail.  I am looking to do something outdoors with multiple trains running via DCC so they are not tied to a single set of controls\power settings on the track.

Since I don't know the difference between 2-rail and 3-rail track, I can't answer that other than the obvious that 3-rail track has 1 more rail than 2 rail.   I don't know what one would choose one over the other.

Being new to setting up models of any type, I don't think I am ready to be laying and bending and manufacturing my own track from raw materials.   Having a landscaping background, I have no fear of laying the foundation and getting proper drainage but I don't have the tools and know-how to build the track yet.

Thanks for the info on the Puget Sound layout.  I have been getting some very good information about which manufacturers to seek components from.

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Posted by FJ and G on Monday, July 30, 2007 8:22 AM

You might want to do a small loop of track and experiment first before tackling a larger project. You'll want 2 rail track, which is standard for DCC

 

Post specific questions as you move forward and be sure to post photos to get the most responses 

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