what do you use to GLUE ballast down, when a raised support system is used

[mgilger]

Has anyone used Titebond III?  It's waterproof, or so they say. I thought it was worth a try, so I diluted it 50/50 and have applied it to several projects to hold the granit finds in place. In a few more weeks, I will relocate to the outside and see how they hold up.  In the mean time, has anyone tried this product to hold stone in place?

 Thanks,
Mark

[ttrigg]

Dave: I just added a new comment "Dave: read this" in a similar thread (to bring it to the front), "Gravel Glue" where I posted the "Retail Name", company name, phone number, web address for getting the "Stabilizer" product I use.  Please read it.

[dwbeckett]

Any current updates on this I will be ballasting in june or july depending on $$.

Dave

[spikejones52002]

Hi Byron

Yes once white glue cures it will not redesolve.

I do not know under extreme. Meaning good drainage it will take the rain.

Spike

[EMPIRE II LINE]

user="ttrigg"]Byron

Print that page I put up the link to, and tell them that you saw it on Paul James, "Gardening by the Yard".  Might build their ego up a touch to do a "vendor search" to see if they can get it for you.

 

Question posted, Tom

Said they'd get back to me soon...

Byron

[FJ and G]

Spike,

 

That's interesting about white glue not washing away. I'd have thought it would need to be Titebond III or something; but if you tried it and it worked over an extended period of time, it must be so. 

[spikejones52002]

I have used a 20% mix of common white glue to water.

Use a small hole squeeze bottle. Initially flood it as you move along the track. Open ballast for good drainage of the glue mix. Let it dry. Then go along with a thin pointed stick and check for any loose ballast. Put additional drop of glue over the loose ballast.

Once dried will not wash out. If need to remove the thin mixure will break out easy. You place the removed ballast into a closed container with a couple of larger stones. Shake or tumble will break it up for reuse.

Good luck and have FUN.

[ttrigg]

Byron

Print that page I put up the link to, and tell them that you saw it on Paul James, "Gardening by the Yard".  Might build their ego up a touch to do a "vendor search" to see if they can get it for you.

[EMPIRE II LINE]

user="ttrigg]

Byron;
NOT Depot or Lowes, unless you have a "super sized store".  I go to my (not so local) rock yard.  KRC Rock is where I get mine, I select the crusher fines that I want and have them mix in the polymer when they bag it for me.  The stuff is actually "marketed" as a driveway/walkway product.  When it cracks, chips, or what ever, just break it up, pack it back down, wet it again and all is well. 

 

Okay Tom,

Thanks, I'll see if Rinker or one of the other yards has it, it's a bit harder to come up with some things here in the intelligent South you know, they don't like to be told how.......to do things...

Byron 

[ttrigg]

I use something called "polymer sand" (or polymer gravel) for semi permanent settings.  There is an invisible polymer mixed into the sand or crushed gravel, that will "glue" everything into position when wetted down and allowed to dry.

Say Tom, Where would this stuff be easily found, the Depot or Lowe's ???

Byron  

Byron;
NOT Depot or Lowes, unless you have a "super sized store".  I go to my (not so local) rock yard.  KRC Rock is where I get mine, I select the crusher fines that I want and have them mix in the polymer when they bag it for me.  The stuff is actually "marketed" as a driveway/walkway product.  When it cracks, chips, or what ever, just break it up, pack it back down, wet it again and all is well. 

[EMPIRE II LINE]

I use something called "polymer sand" (or polymer gravel) for semi permanent settings.  There is an invisible polymer mixed into the sand or crushed gravel, that will "glue" everything into position when wetted down and allowed to dry. 

Say Tom, Where would this stuff be easily found, the Depot or Lowe's ???

Byron  

[ttrigg]

I use something called "polymer sand" (or polymer gravel) for semi permanent settings.  There is an invisible polymer mixed into the sand or crushed gravel, that will "glue" everything into position when wetted down and allowed to dry.  A very big advantage is that when the track is relocated just knock it off the rails and ties, stir it up in a bucket (breaking it down), position it where needed and just wet it down.  Each time it gets wet it renews its bonds.  Have a look at Paul James and his show Gardening by the Yard.

[Takasaki Matt]

One suggestion you may not have heard of is to use 'Rowlands Mix'.  This is a combination of cement, grit or sand and peat (or a peat-like sub.).  This will encourage the growth of moss so as to make the rails look rustic, just like so many of the shortline/narrow gauge tracks.

Have a look here: http://www.wis.co.uk/andy/16mm/rowlandsmix.html

This is a British solution to the new and shiney way track starts out as.  The mix bonds the track to the under surface but will come away fairly clean if re-laying in required.

Just a thought.

 Regards, Matthew Foster

Takasaki Light Railway. 

[FJ and G]

I don't want to speak for them but I do believe it dries so you cannot tell it's there. At least that is the case with what I use, concrete bonding adhesive. I dilute 1:1 with water and use a spray bottle with a dab of soap and alcohol for whetting agent. Spray to depth of about 1 inch.

 

ENSURE you clean the sprayer ASAP! by washing with water and spraying with water after or the stuff will clogg your sprayer!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

[newto gscale]

does the cement dry to a clear color or is noticible after putting on the grit also do you spread the glue with a small brush thanks for the imformation

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Byron,

I have had success on concrete, ladder, sub-board, and ballast fill roadbed using Weldwood [original] Contact Cement, from Lowes, for $18.99/gal.  The cement is put into a catsup dispensor bottle and applied along the sides of the ties on the outside edge.  The ballast between the rails is left to float between the secured sides of the ballast. 

  After two years, with double the yearly rainfall this year, the cement remains flexible, but secure.

JimC.

Sounds good to me JIM, Lowe's here I come this weekend.

Thanks, Byron

[pimanjc]

Byron,

I have had success on concrete, ladder, sub-board, and ballast fill roadbed using Weldwood [original] Contact Cement, from Lowes, for $18.99/gal.  The cement is put into a catsup dispensor bottle and applied along the sides of the ties on the outside edge.  The ballast between the rails is left to float between the secured sides of the ballast. 

I also use this product to stabilize the riverbed shown in the second picture.  After two years, with double the yearly rainfall this year, the cement remains flexible, but secure.

JimC.

[EMPIRE II LINE]

Well everyone you've seen some photos of my layout design on here, general discussion 'Photo Practice, Posting Photos'.

 I'm still in need of some input here. I plan to usa Calcium Carbonate (commonly known as Chicken Scratch) as my ballast, however I'm unsure as to what type of glue/mixture to maybe use to hold the ballast in place around the ties. I need something that will to an extent hold up with the rains we almost daily have here in cental Florida, quite heavy at most times. Also something that would not be so hard to remove when ever a switch needs repair or a track needs adjusting.

Does anyone have any suggestions at all out there, something that has maybe worked pretty well for you.   Help......

Byron