Couplings.

[Anonymous]

As a new 'G' scaler I'm having to make lots of decisions as to how I'm going to proceed with this new area of railway modelling. One decision I need to sort out fairly early in the piece is the type of coupling I'm going to use. Now I know there are the two main types, the knuckle coupler that looks like it's all set to give those troublesome trucks a good what for, - and the hook type coupler which isn't prototypical, but is found on LGB & etc. There are others too, link and pin couplers, and the Norwegian type chopper coupler.
Here in New Zealand the Norwegian chopper coupler was used right from the early days by the NZGR with link and pin being frequently used for logging/mining/industrial railways/tramways. Now I would actually like to use the Norwegian style coupler which is available in various sizes from Garden Railway Specialists in the UK; - BUT how reliable is this as a coupler on twisty turny track layouts where there are grades? The LGB hook coupler is to my mind vaguely based on the Norwegian coupler, - only it looks clumbsy and frightful.

Link and pin couplers would be completely prototypical for my Logging tramway, but I do wonder if they would drive me barmy with pins going missing and not being able to get the $@#! pin into the hole while switching/shunting. Possibly some logging cars/disconnects could use them on the set train principal, but I don't really want to use them everywhere.
I do have some of the GRS chopper couplings in both styles, so what I should do is fit them up on my new 'Heritage' loco (No:8) and build a few test cars for it to bunt about. I've got parts marked out for a logging tramway coach, so I should get stuck in and at least get it mounted on trucks so I can run some tests.
Anybody have any advice to offer?

Thanks,

Annie

[Anonymous]

Hi Annie,
I've been at this hobby for years and I still haven't made my mind up yet! My choice is between hook & loop, standard knuckle or KD's. If you want to keep it together then you can't beat hook & loop, just don't look to close. I went back onto these last year because of uneven track but I am now re-laying my track as I change the back garden and the knuckles are back on. As you mentioned about link and pin, you need to be able to operate your couplers on the layout if you move stuff around, forget hook & loop for that! As ever in this hobby, it's your choice and you'll find the compromise - eventually!!
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[cabbage]

Annie,
I use the Tenmille AG046 and AG047 coupling and they do not come apart unless you want them to. I do have details in a book to make them yourself. E-mail me if you want the scanned pages.

regards

ralph

[Anonymous]

Thanks Raiph I'd be very interested to have a look at those scanned pages. Reliable couplings you can make yourself sound like a good idea to me.
I had a look over at the Bandbright website and I must say they have some seriously lovely couplings. Look at these as an example; - cast brass they are which I know would be $$$$$$ with the exchange rate with the $NZ.

I like the ones with the side chains best :-)

Cheers,

Annie

[cabbage]

The couplings with the chains are all Irish NG stuff.

Here are your pages Annie -along with anyone else who might like a copy.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sheila.capella/cabbage/p60+61.JPG
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sheila.capella/cabbage/p62+63.JPG
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/sheila.capella/cabbage/p64+65.JPG

File sizes are in excess of 1Mbyte.

regards

ralph

[cabbage]

A thought. For those seriously strapped for cash -or in need of cheap and disposable carriages the 16mmngm group on Yahoo has the famous 'Cardboard Coaches' that you simply print out and stick on the sides of suitable plastic boxes . My son (5) thinks they are great -they also look good too!!!

regards

ralph

[Anonymous]

Thankyou very much Ralph those pages look to be quite useful. I had a dig around and discovered that I had several sets of Tenmille L&B chopper couplings as well as some Tenmille axleguards and curly spoke wheels left over from building Welsh NG models. I thought I'd build a few of Garden Railways plan No:33, - the 4 wheel high-side gondola and flat car, - since all narrow gauge railways can make use of cars like this for a variety of purposes. :-)

Cheers

Annie

[Anonymous]

Annie,

Chopper couplings look good which is why I use them.
But if you are going to do shunting, then they are not for you. You will find that the wagons end up so close that you can not get your finger in to uncouple the @#** things. I built my own version and they work Ok on good (flat) track, but I have had problems with them uncoupling on other peoples rough track joints where hook and loop and knuckles stay coupled.

I do not shunt my trains, so uncoupling is not so much a problem for me, because the only time I need to do it is when I change the engine, or pack them away at the end of the day. I had to build a tool to reach and grab the top of the hook, otherwise I could not get some of them apart. If I was going to shunt wagons lots I would not use them.

A guy in Auckland called Michael Hillar was selling white metal versions he made for $4 per pair a few years ago. I'm not sure if he still does or not. They had a brass hook and side chains and brakes hoses parts, but some assembly was required. I think some of the english products you have referred to are in plastic and they come ready to go. If you want Michaels email let me know and I will try and find it.

If you are going to have a go at building your own, the angle that the underside of the hook slopes back towards the buffer face is critical (he says talking from experience - mistakes). It is a fiddly job.

Couplings are relatively easy to change, so my advice is that you buy one of each type and try them on a wagon and do some shunting. You will soon see what one is best for you.

BTW, what area of NZ do you live in?

Glen.

[Anonymous]

Hello Glen, I live in Auckland actually and I did pick up a flyer for the Auckland G-Scale Group just the other day. I'm thinking about joining if they'll have me (Noooooooo it's that crazy New Bright woman .......).
Any layout I make will be small as I don't have that much space, - and I do like shunting. I've always been a keen shunter rather than a runner of trains, most probably because I spent soooooo much time watching locos shunting the yards at Otahuhu and Southdown. I can even remember watching steam locos shunting (sigh). AND just in case anybody is counting on their fingers and figuring out my age they can stop it right now or I'll slap you one!
Right! - back to couplers. The Tenmille L&B choppers are made of a strong and slightly flexible black plastic AND they have an arrangement for being uncoupled by an uncoupling ramp which should take care of any problems with trying to get them uncoupled. I did have a brief experience with chopper couplings while experimenting with NZR in 9mm scale, - and they were right little pigs! But I'm hopeful that coming up in size to 1:20.3 scale will make life much easier with regard to chopper couplings.
I'm planning on taking your advice about fitting up different couplers and having a play. That was why I thought I'd build a few 4 wheel flatcars and gondolas from plan No:33 and see how it went. I do have some loop and hook couplers in the scrapbox as well as a couple of 'Knuckleduster' couplers, sooooo I guess if I lay out a few sidings at Carpet Central I guess I'll soon find out what works best.
If you could dig out Micheal Hillar's e.mail address though Glen it would be useful to have it as I might like to try his couplings out too.

Cheers,

Annie

[Anonymous]

I didn't think much about couplings until recently; i went to a running at a nearby layout and I use double LGB and I was the only person there that did not experience a derailing and or many disconnections.


Rgds Ian