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Couplings.
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Annie, <br /> <br />Chopper couplings look good which is why I use them. <br />But if you are going to do shunting, then they are not for you. You will find that the wagons end up so close that you can not get your finger in to uncouple the @#** things. I built my own version and they work Ok on good (flat) track, but I have had problems with them uncoupling on other peoples rough track joints where hook and loop and knuckles stay coupled. <br /> <br />I do not shunt my trains, so uncoupling is not so much a problem for me, because the only time I need to do it is when I change the engine, or pack them away at the end of the day. I had to build a tool to reach and grab the top of the hook, otherwise I could not get some of them apart. If I was going to shunt wagons lots I would not use them. <br /> <br /> A guy in Auckland called Michael Hillar was selling white metal versions he made for $4 per pair a few years ago. I'm not sure if he still does or not. They had a brass hook and side chains and brakes hoses parts, but some assembly was required. I think some of the english products you have referred to are in plastic and they come ready to go. If you want Michaels email let me know and I will try and find it. <br /> <br />If you are going to have a go at building your own, the angle that the underside of the hook slopes back towards the buffer face is critical (he says talking from experience - mistakes). It is a fiddly job. <br /> <br />Couplings are relatively easy to change, so my advice is that you buy one of each type and try them on a wagon and do some shunting. You will soon see what one is best for you. <br /> <br />BTW, what area of NZ do you live in? <br /> <br />Glen. <br />
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