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[quote]QUOTE: Originally posted by choocher my 2 cents: i've used Liquid Nails for attaching painted wood to painted drywall. in each case, the paint was either semi-gloss or flat. After 2 months, the work crashed to the floor unannounced. (this happened 3 times, which shows you what a slow learner I am.) Finally, the light bulb went on. I sanded the wood objects, and the drywall itself. No problems since. Now, if this happens indoors, you might want to consider a rough-up of the surfaces you're attaching outside, where it obviously is a lot wetter. I'd venture to say this holds true, no matter what surface, materiale, adhesive, or weather patterns you're faced with. About the only exception i can think of is, if you want to actually undo your work and pry apart the glued seams so you can "re-hash/kit-bash". In delicate N gauge, that could be a problem, but considering the actual real-world materiale you're dealing with, a crowbar might not be inappropriate. Hey, real gandydancers use 'em all the time....sometimes, i'd like to use one on these N gauge kits! [/quote] Choocher, when you attached the wood to the drywall was the drywall itself painted? I make the builder a least prime the drywall before attaching wood otherwise the construction adhesive will bond to that haze of dust left behind by the sanders and as you said fall to the floor. I however have never experenced prefinished wood not bonding correctly. I also prefer Titebonds construction adhesive over Liquid nails anyday. For a thinner bond use Subfloor adhesive. On the cleanup note use xylene or Goof off, Goof off is just overprice Xylene anyway. Just make sure the surface around the glue joint won't be eaten away by the xylene so test to make sure. Use in a welll venilated area! [xx(] it's more likely to"Squish" more tightly together. Oh, one more thing if you have the ability depending on application you can stick and pull the pieces apart 2 to 3 times it releases the vapors from the glue and speeds up the curring time.[;)]
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