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What is the most used approach to track planning with Large Scale

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  • Member since
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Posted by Feather on Monday, February 4, 2008 7:19 PM
I use mostly the concept of, "First I want to go this-away, and then I want to go that-away, based on the lay of the land. I have essentially unlimited land to do this, so that is not a consideration. However, cost is a consideration so I have to reign in my "Druthers," when I write down my "Givens and Druthers." I also use the LDE. For instance, when I was looking at a drawing of the folded wye at that included Greenbriar, Elk and Cheat Junctions on the Tygart Subdivision of the Western Maryland. That fit perfectly my need to get trains out of an indoor storage yard and out to the layout. The best way to build a layout is to get some track down on the ground and start running trains. That forces you to look and the land and figure out just which LDE you want to use. SteveF
SteveF A committee is a life form with 3 or more heads and no brain.
  • Member since
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Posted by OxnardScott on Tuesday, February 5, 2008 2:40 PM

I built my first layout among existing plants, such as nandina and full-sized trees, in my back yard.  My style was to stake out (with stakes) a route for my layout.  I used actual pieces of track to help me place the stakes and help me figure out how my track should wend its way among the plants.  It worked out o.k.

 

Now I am about to redo my back yard, including a new layout.  This time I am trying the layout design program RR-Track™ v4.02.  I measured the dimensions of my back yard and then created a layout.  I will now see how well I can duplicate it with the real layout.  The nice thing about the software approach is I could try a lot of iterations, change my mind, etc., before I actually started laying out track.  I think using the software approach will be a better one for me.

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Posted by Ron Hill on Thursday, February 7, 2008 9:50 PM
The first thing you need to do is look at the area where your layout is going to be develop. That will dictate what the track plan will look like. If your yard is flat like where I live in the MS. delta, then you will be able to build a layout a lot easier than if the area is of different height from one area to another. Drainage for water is another big design that you must take into consideration. Where the bridges will be located for this purpose will give you an idea of what the track plan will look like. Hopes this helps.
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Posted by Neiler on Saturday, February 9, 2008 6:32 PM

George:

I, like you, came up from the world of small(er) scales and gauges.  Narrow gauge has always had it's appeal and seemed ideal for the garden.  We get over 200" of rain a year so mine needed to be built where drainage was key so the physical site sort of presented itself with a little walk about the yard.  

As an architect, I feel very comfortable with a pencil so after marking off the are with a tape I transfered the "site" to paper.  Nothing was fixed except on really large tree and fences to keep horses away from the yard.

My interests are varied and I began thinking that I'd look at 2' railroads for starters and started drawing plans with wide (10'+) radius curves, not being too concerned about the existing topography as I wanted to put the railroad IN the yard not ON the yard.

I also wanted to "operate" my trains and have a place where single track with sidings will create meets and give me something to do.  We have a few folks around that like to "watch them run" just like everywhere else, but it's my railroad not theirs.

The railroad also had to have a purpose.  It began simply. Trains would run from a seaside town to the wharves where ore and comodoties would be trans-shiped.  All theory, of course.  The climb to the pier would need about 2% - 21/2% grade making short trains manditory or doubling the hill - so sidings would be required to be used.  Long trains in this scale really eat up space!

Somewhere I got the 3' bug and really love the Accucraft stuff, 1:20.3 Bachmann engines for being cheap and reliable so the large curves really look good.  I figured that I could run the 1:13 stuff for kicks now and again.  Timber bridges scaled for the larger scale seem just right 5/8" square members really looked the part.

With all the rain my roadbed is concrete on tamped cinder landscape beds.  This seems to drain well and keep everything in place.  Despite the permanancy of the roadbed, I have found adding on isn't quite as daunting as I thought.  My cedar and redwood bridges fair o.k. - and I've since started experimenting with steel structures. We'll see.

Having a purpose to the line has always got me looking, reading, and thinking how to create more realistic and interesting scenes.  The idea of LDE never really hit home util I saw the port in "Steel Rails and Silver Dreams".  The end of the line is now undergoing a change with a Garden Textures model as the focal point.

I did use hoses, pvc, and bent stick to visualize my plan and made changes as I went.  The only thing that I wished that had been better considered was the railroad height.  The planting beds could have been raised another foot and it wouldn't look to much like a "table top" as others put it.  I love what was published on the Snow Creek Railroad and have tried to create concrete cliff faces where the railroad is near the lawn and needed to be high.  Other places "link" the landscaping with trestles - some 36" tall.  

We're under water here now but I'll try to get some photo's online if you are interested in this direction.

 

Neil 

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Posted by BJ of Maltby on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 12:35 PM
I use a computer program called RR Tack.  It doesn't cost a whole lot, and it saves a lot of time when your in the planning stage looking at a blank page.  What ever the size you your empire space, the program is totally adjustible.  I have an older version of the program, but the new three D looks very cool.
  • Member since
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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 1:21 PM
Im just getting ready to start my first Garden RR.  I was never good at measuring things so I just took some paper and started drawing until I came up with a plan that works.  I have 9 acres of hilly property.  Part if open field, wooded, swamps and a stream that runs through.  I would love to do something with incorperating the stream but the stream sits in the back end of my 9 acres.  Too far.  I decided to build it in the front yard.  It is faily flat and I have a deck I can sit on a watch the trains.  Once the snow melts Im going to measure out the width and length of the RR and start removing the grass and then work the land to get it how I want it.  Then I will lay the track down and then take it from there.   
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 4:46 PM

 SNOWSHOE wrote:
Im just getting ready to start my first Garden RR.  I was never good at measuring things so I just took some paper and started drawing until I came up with a plan that works.  I have 9 acres of hilly property.  Part if open field, wooded, swamps and a stream that runs through.  I would love to do something with incorperating the stream but the stream sits in the back end of my 9 acres.  Too far.   

Just a thought about the stream, nice size bridge, while like some layouts let people walk around and see the different wounders that are there. Hills can be cut through like real RRs. You can use this stream to your advantage. Remember to note how high the water gets and add a few.

My 3 cents....

Toad

  • Member since
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  • From: NJ (Kittatinny Mountains)
  • 436 posts
Posted by SNOWSHOE on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 5:29 PM

 

 

I have thought about that but the area is too far from the house.  Too run the electric down that far would be too much.  Plus the area is very wooded and rocky.  Would be a project maintaining it.

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