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Lionel 736 Berkshire Locomotive

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  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Delray Beach, FL
  • 311 posts
Posted by andregg1 on Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:49 PM

Thanks for the tip.

I will try!

Andre. 

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 8:32 PM
Andre, it is possible to insert a shim washer without pulling the wheels.  You cut a segment out of the washer just the slightest bit narrower than the diameter of the axle and then force the washer over the axle, between the wheel and the bushing. 

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Delray Beach, FL
  • 311 posts
Posted by andregg1 on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 6:44 PM

Hi

another thing I found in mine is a real issue with magnetraction.

the magnetraction all the time attract the rear wheel to one side plus the rotation the bushing lose the gap beetwen the wheel and the bushing, and the wheel start touching the wheel.

Now, the only solution is remove the wheel and insert shims or replase the bushing.

this is my two cent about.

Andre. 

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: New England
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Posted by Jumijo on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 12:44 PM
Thanks for setting me straight, Philly. Big Smile [:D]

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Lake Worth FL
  • 4,014 posts
Posted by phillyreading on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 12:41 PM

Jaabat,

You did good but you forgot to mention to clean the wheels as this is where the electric comes in from, even the little center roller pickup wheels need cleaning and sometimes replacing.  If you have a whistling tender you must also clean the wheels to get great electric pickup, and with a whistling tender from post war if it whistles when you don't press the whistle or horn button your track is dirty too!  Don't forget to clean your track, just because you don't see the dirt doesn't mean there is no dirt!

As far as oil goes you need to oil every axle that has a wheel set on it even the trailing axles to help cut down on friction.

Lee F.

Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: New England
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Posted by Jumijo on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 12:02 PM
Forgot to mention that. Oil those rods!

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Hopewell, NY
  • 3,230 posts
Posted by ADCX Rob on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 11:34 AM
 jaabat wrote:

The motor in my 736 was sluggish and the rollers sparked excessively when it ran. Here's what I did to make it run better.

1. Cleaned the comutator until it shined, and cleaned out the spaces between the three sections.

2. Replaced the brushes and cleaned out the brush wells.

3. Oiled the drive shaft well! There is a fill hole in the front of the motor. I filled mine until it came out the top. Then I tipped the motor back and forth to get lots of oil on those bushings inside.

4. Cleaned all the old grease out of the gear well and off the gears. Re-greased with plenty of new Lubriplate white grease.

5. Replaced the roller assembly with new one.

6. Oiled the axles. No exterior gears to grease. 

My 736 now runs much faster at half the voltage it used to, and with no sparking. 

Jim 

I'll add another important bullet to this list - the side rods transmit motor power and must be oiled too.  Use a full-synthetic like Mobil 1 in a needle oiler(it's very inexpensive this way too).

Rob 

Rob

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: New England
  • 6,241 posts
Posted by Jumijo on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 8:02 AM

The motor in my 736 was sluggish and the rollers sparked excessively when it ran. Here's what I did to make it run better.

1. Cleaned the comutator until it shined, and cleaned out the spaces between the three sections.

2. Replaced the brushes and cleaned out the brush wells.

3. Oiled the drive shaft well! There is a fill hole in the front of the motor. I filled mine until it came out the top. Then I tipped the motor back and forth to get lots of oil on those bushings inside.

4. Cleaned all the old grease out of the gear well and off the gears. Re-greased with plenty of new Lubriplate white grease.

5. Replaced the roller assembly with new one.

6. Oiled the axles. No exterior gears to grease. 

My 736 now runs much faster at half the voltage it used to, and with no sparking. 

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Carmel, NY
  • 373 posts
Posted by ezmike on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 7:45 AM

First order of business is to welcome you. Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

I too am a relatively newbie so I'll leave the highly technical questions to them, but as far as the smoke unit, look down the smokestack if there is a cup it is a liquid unit, if there is a "grate" (a ceramic plate with a wire coiled around it) it is a pill-type. I do believe that they are pill-type unless it has been converted to liquid. Whether you can use either, I'll leave that up to the others who have far more experience with this. Personally I use both on my pill-type locos. As the Chief once posted (I think), the pill turns to liquid so what's the difference.

The slowing down issue might need more information and is a question for the 736 experts. Jabaat, where are you?

Willy, have fun.

Mike

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 1:27 AM

Sign - Welcome [#welcome]hey Sign - Welcome [#welcome]...

 

okay as far as the slowing down on the corners i beleive its cuz you need wider curves. I had that problem and then i got a wider curve and it stopped slowing down, it went threw them without any problems.

 

you could also check your mesh on the motor shaft and the worm drive. if to tight it could cause it to slow the train down.

 

just my 2 cents but i know one of the vets will pop in here with a better answer.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • 2 posts
Lionel 736 Berkshire Locomotive
Posted by postwar willy on Wednesday, June 27, 2007 12:57 AM
I recently purchased a postwar Lionel 736 locomotive. There are several questions I have about this unit which someone might be able to answer. The first question has to do with the smoke unit. How can I tell whether it uses pills or liquid ? The second question is that I cleaned and lubed the engine, but it has a hard time pulling four Williams 027 passenger cars; it tends to slow down on 031 curve tubular track. Is this normal or do I need a new motor?

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