Bob Nelson
Tubular track is great - for my new rolling stock shelves.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
It seems like it'll be half fast-rack....I may abaondon ship & go tubular all the way because of the cost. I am begininng to notice it's pretty loud, too
I'm already half deaf......!
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
Frank53 wrote: anjdevil2 wrote: Half full or half empty.....just as long as its not half . . . Half-Fast?
anjdevil2 wrote: Half full or half empty.....just as long as its not half . . .
Half full or half empty.....just as long as its not half . . .
Half-Fast?
Or " Half-Fastrac" !!
My thought was....best of both worlds.....?
Half full or half empty.....just as long as its not half a!
anjdevil2 wrote: I'm using a mix of Fastrack and O-27.Thanks!!Rich
I'm using a mix of Fastrack and O-27.
Thanks!!Rich
This is one of those brain teasers for the ages - is the glass half empty?
or half full?
Hi, I don't know if you are already using tublar track. But did you ever consider using a solid track. Atlas has a nice track and they have connectors for conecting to tublar track. It's nickle silver, which is a very good conductor and is very durable. And also looks realistic. Just a thought from someone who is using it on his own layout.
Ralph
anjdevil2 wrote: At the risk of offending EVERYONE at once, I'm using a mix of Fastrack and O-27. I decided I didn't like the way the fastrack hangs over my 2%grade so I'm replacing it with tubular. I may change the interior sections with tubular and fastrack, but I need to settle on a final track plan. I am also using the Life Like grass as a nod to those days when my Dad have the layout when we were kids. 1 question I do have is how do you deal with seams on the grass? Also, how would you guys "decorate" the inclines? I have been debating on making my own rock wall, bass wood with wood beams or flat plastering with some grass. There really is no room for sloping as the rails ar so close.Thanks!!Rich For covering seems with Life Like grass mats I use Squadron brand green putty and the leftover green grass residue that falls off after opening the bag.Lee F.
At the risk of offending EVERYONE at once, I'm using a mix of Fastrack and O-27. I decided I didn't like the way the fastrack hangs over my 2%grade so I'm replacing it with tubular. I may change the interior sections with tubular and fastrack, but I need to settle on a final track plan. I am also using the Life Like grass as a nod to those days when my Dad have the layout when we were kids. 1 question I do have is how do you deal with seams on the grass? Also, how would you guys "decorate" the inclines? I have been debating on making my own rock wall, bass wood with wood beams or flat plastering with some grass. There really is no room for sloping as the rails ar so close.
For covering seems with Life Like grass mats I use Squadron brand green putty and the leftover green grass residue that falls off after opening the bag.
Lee F.
"Lionel trains are the standard of the world" - Jousha Lionel Cowen
(1) O gauge track beyond doubt. O27 is not intrinsically bad, but just never seemed very strong or solid to me.
(2) Re the carpet question, Scenic Express coarse burnt turf (or the color of your choice) is pretty cheap, fun to apply, and looks much more realistic.
I always thought that to, that sclaes such as HO or sometime N should be for the realistic appearance, and O for the joy of running trains.
I know, I am a bit off topic...... ....... but lets not get anymore!!!!!
magicman710 wrote: Does anybody think that using green carpet to simulate grass is unrealistic or unappealing?
Does anybody think that using green carpet to simulate grass is unrealistic or unappealing?
Not realistic at all. But I do it anyway. I use the indoor/outdoor stuff laid on the plywood, and the tubular track and accessories laid on top of that. Drill holes for the wires and track screws right through the carpet. I drill 1/4" holes through the 1x4 supports for the plywood as routing guides for the wires. Cables for operating tracks, accessory, and switch controllers are lengthened as necessary.
My reasons for having a 3 rail layout are for the fun of watching toy trains run and playing with operating accessories. For my realistic modeling urges, I do On30, HO, and HOn3.
just my experiences, yours may differ
Fred W
Strength/Durability: O31, due to heavier gauge metal used
Realism: O27, due to shorter rail, although neither is expecially realistic without adding extra ties and ballast
Best running: Depends on the radius of the curves and the switches used. There are plenty of people here who made smooth-running layouts with either kind. You should always use the widest curves you can.
Affordability: O27, since O27-profile O42 curves cost about the same as O31 curves, and O27 straights are cheap, cheap.
If you have a lot of one type of track I see no reason to scrap it and switch to the other.
magicman710 wrote:Which has more strength, durability, realism, wich does locomotives run best on, ect.
Which has more strength, durability, realism, wich does locomotives run best on, ect.
Neither is very realistic. As to the other points O gauge definatley.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Frank53 wrote: not sure what info is missing. Plenty of advice is already been offered. Is there some piece of information missing that is critical to the decision?
not sure what info is missing. Plenty of advice is already been offered. Is there some piece of information missing that is critical to the decision?
I prefer the O gauge track because the switches allow a longer freight or passenger car to go thru without hanging up compared to 027 track switches by Lionel, the 42 inch 027 switches have the same type of problem as their design is taken from the 027 switch.
027 switches by K-Line are designed differant and don't have long car issues at the switches.
O gauge tubular track comes in a variety of curve sizes from 031 up to 072 and cutting an 072 curve and adding a straight track or half straight track between curve sections allows you to go up to a 96 inch curve. The older 022 switches from post war era work best.
lionelsoni wrote: I'll bet you could put O31 on a ping-pong table too. But it would be a little hard to find a 5x10-foot ping-pong table anyway--they're 5x9.
I'll bet you could put O31 on a ping-pong table too. But it would be a little hard to find a 5x10-foot ping-pong table anyway--they're 5x9.
BDT
magicman710 wrote:We are getting !!!!!!!
Lionel 027 was 'Tinplate' - was multiple plug-together track sections to fit on a 5'X10' Ping Pong table.
It would be equivalent to an HO layout with 14" (!3.5") radius curves, on a 4'X8'.
027 WAS THE original 'RR' for trains around the Xmas tree.
'Tubular track was cheap to make, but primarily held 3 pronged metal points to pass electricity. LIONEL added an 072 line for older train lovers. MARKLIN (Germany) makes realistic 3 rail track in HO today.
Still, Old O gauge Lionel equipment brings good prices for pieces in good condition for collectors. One of the best I personally encountered was MIZEL'S TRAINS in Colorado.
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