Modifying old Lionel switches

[Anonymous]

Is it possible to cut back the diverging route on an old Lionel 022 switch from a 45 degree curve to 23 degrees?
How would one approach the tasks of cutting the base, cutting rail, and rebuilding the switch to function properly?
Has this ever been done? I know Lionel tried to manufacture similar switches but apparently had some problems and chose not to correct them, instead merely discontinuing the product.
What's the best method of soldering Lionel O gauge rail, including the proper wattage iron/gun?

[brianel027]

I've done this with 027 switches. I also chop the entire footprint of the switch down to just the track itself. It is a lot of extra work and feeder wires need to be soldered underneath to continue electricity flow. But on a small layout, it does free up a lot of extra space normally used by the switch base. In retrospect, thinking of all the extra work, next layout I build, I may use Gargrave switches with either Gargraves track or 027 tubular.
I learned my method by trial and error. I'd start by using a "beater" switch and see how the job goes. You may want to try using the Lionel 072 turnout. Gargraves also makes a variety of affordable switches in various degrees, and they make mating pins to go to 0 gauge tubular.
Since those newer Lionel O switches you refered to weren't very popular, you might pick one up for a deal. I know there was an article in one of the train mags at one time on improving those turnouts.
good luck. brianel

[Big_Boy_4005]

Its been done many times, and I have done it myself , many years ago. A hack saw is the tool of choice, and the secret is to be careful with the rails.

I'm doing this from memory, and I don't have a switch handy, but I believe that there are screws that hold the bottom plate on the switch. Remove the bottom plate before cutting. There are small tabs that hold the rails onto the molded plastic base. The non-derailing rail is fragile, and may need to be glued back into place because shortening the switch will mean the loss of one of the sets of tabs.

Also, if memory serves, there are 2 versions of 022 switches. The early version has cadmium coated rails, and the non-derailing section is a special segment on the outside rail. Later versions have regular steel rails and the non-derailing section is on the inside.

The cadmium coated rail is very difficult to solder, and needs to be cleaned very well first. It may be necessary to solder a jumper wire on to reconnect the non-derailing feature.

When soldering track a large high wattage iron is helpful in order to get enough heat to properly do the job. There is only one way to correctly solder. You will need to heat the surfaces that you want to join, then touch the solder to the heated surface, and it will melt. Using the heat source to melt the solder could result in a poor connection.

Good luck.

[Anonymous]

I AM TRYING TO USE A PAIR OF LIONEL 1122 SWITCHES AND KNOW NOTHING AT ALL .ARE THEY USEABLE ?

[lionelsoni]

Simple, what makes you think that they are not?

Trainbud, I have also cut down O27 switches successfully. However, you wind up with about 30 degrees, not 22 1/2.

One problem with taking one of these apart is that the frog has a post under it that makes an integral rivet passing through the entire switch. After drilling off its head to get the thing apart, I cut the post off flush and then drill and tap the frog all the way through for an 8-32 flathead screw, long enough to engage the new threads but not protruding through the top of the frog.