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675 wheel problem

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 4:39 PM
Just wanted to let everyone know that I fixed the wheel.  I used the superglue method Rob described.  Haven't had a chance to run the 675 yet.  Thanks again for the help.
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Posted by cwburfle on Wednesday, June 6, 2007 5:58 AM

I agree with Rob. You can make a very effective repair with either a quality CA glue, or locktite.

Just make certain that all grease / oil is removed, and use the glue very sparingly.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 3:04 PM

Bob,

          I do know that the jaws are removeable because I resored this vise.  It was my grandfather's, so it is at least 40-60 years old.  I think I would need a bigger vise.  Harbor Freight has all kinds of neat stuff.  

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Posted by LL675 on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 8:25 AM
I had the same problem with my 671, and super glue is working fine.

Dave

It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody  from Toy Story)

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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 7:26 AM
Maybe not.  You need one with removeable jaws, so that you can put screws (probably metric nowadays) into the jaw-mounting holes.  It also needs to be big enough to get the wheelset in-between the screws.  I just looked at the Harbor Freight site.  Their stuff is usually dirt cheap; but the vises are a little pricey.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 5, 2007 7:08 AM

I would like to thank everyone for their replies.

Bob,

        The vise I have is an old 3.5" model.  Is it big enough?  Your way of installing wheels sounds much better than the way my did put wheels on his 2037.  He'd started the wheel on by hand, put the opposite wheel on the picnic table, then pound the other wheel into place with a hammer!  Bye bye magnet!  Thanks for your help.

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Posted by 1688torpedo on Monday, June 4, 2007 8:29 PM
Hello Jim!      If the Axle can move in & out of the Wheel Hole. Then it sounds like the hole is worn larger than the diameter of the axle in order to have a proper & tight fit. My suggestion would be to contact Jeff Kane at the Train Tender & order a new original stock wheel that has never been mounted on a axle at all & go from there. It will save plenty of grief in the long run from having a wheel come loose again. I have had a couple of prewar engines with a loose wheel or two & had to get new original stock wheels in order to remedy the problem. The Super Glue solution may work only if the hole is not larger than what it should be for a tight fit on the axle... or may not!   Take Care.
Keith Woodworth........Seat Belts save lives,Please drive safely.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Monday, June 4, 2007 8:15 PM

Don't worry about deepening the existing splines.  Just make some cuts diagonally across the splined end with cutters at several angles.  Try the wheel on between cuts to be sure you don't go too far in upsetting the axle.

If you have a large vise, you can probably remove the jaws and put machine screws into the jaw-mounting holes for pressing the wheel on.  File the head of one screw flat, with rounded corners.  Use this to press the wheel on at the hub, not the rim.  If the wheel is going on at all crooked, press the hub off-center to correct it.  Grind the other screw down to a post just smaller than the axle.  Use this to press the other end of the axle, not the other hub.

If you have a large vice, my guess is that it's toy trains;-)

Bob Nelson

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Posted by msacco on Monday, June 4, 2007 4:43 PM

Jim,

I've used CA on a few prewar locos that had this problem. they're still going strong after a few years of moderate service. Seems to work well

good luck.

Mike s.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 4, 2007 3:38 PM

Roy,

         I thought about using nippers to deepen the axle splines, but I'd prefer a less drastic method to avoid harming the axle.

Rob,

        I'll try the CA and see what happens. 

 

Thanks for the replies.

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Monday, June 4, 2007 3:23 PM

Clean all traces of lube/oil from the axle and wheel splines(contact cleaner, tuner cleaner, alcohol - your choice) and let it dry.

Let a drop of CA adhesive move into the joint by capillary action.  It doesn't have to be a real strong bond - the CA(SuperGlue - Eastman 910, etc.) takes up just enough slack to tighten the wheel to the axle for several more years of service.

Rob 

Rob

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Posted by wrmcclellan on Monday, June 4, 2007 3:11 PM

Jim,

Make sure your wheel isn't cracked - if not you can try knurling the axle on that end with a chisel, but that may cost you the axle if you decide you have to get a replacement wheel.

Regards, Roy

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675 wheel problem
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 4, 2007 3:07 PM
While I was cleaning my 675, I noticed that the plain end driver on the non-geared side is loose.  The axle can move in and out of the wheel hub.  I would like to fix this because I am afraid that this will cause the geared wheel to jump quarter.  Short of replacing the wheel, is there a way I can fix it?  This 675 is out of the 1947 run.  As always, any info would be greatly appreciated.

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