I would like some opinions on the CTT book "Classic Toy Train Wiring" book. I'm looking for some assistance with wiring accessories, lights, etc on the new layout and came across this book. I would like to hear from anyone who has read or used this book as to how helpful it would be to a complete newbie for wiring. I have NO electrical experience at all and when I recently wired up the lights for my sons train set, I had what appeared to me, a mess connected to the transformer. I am looking for ways to use a teminal strip and to streamline the wiring and make it more easily accessible. I know how to strip and use connectors but when it comes to the terms "jumpers" and other things, I am clueless.
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
"Wattage" is a word, but is a kind of slang for "power", which is usually measured in units of watts for electrical purposes. "Amperage" for "current", measured in amperes, is another example. The one electrical term in this category that is usually not disparaged is "voltage", measured in volts, because its proper name, "electromotive force" (or "EMF), is quite a mouthful.
Actually, the thing whose inconsistency caused you trouble was the track voltage, not the power. The power carried by the track is the voltage that the transformer puts on it multiplied by the current that the loads (train and accessories connected to the track) draw from it. The individual loads, like the lights you connected, care only what the voltage is and draw a current that depends on that voltage. They are oblivious to what the other loads might be doing, except insofar as those other loads might cause some small drop in the voltage due to the imperfect voltage regulation of the transformer and the imperfect conductance of the track and wires.
The analogy is imperfect; but you can perhaps understand an electrical circuit as like water (electrons) in a pipe (wire). The voltage is like the water pressure. But the water doesn't go anywhere until you let it out of the pipe. Then the flow is the current. (You can see where the electrical term came from.) But, except in the case of lightning and other arcs, electrons, unlike water, won't flow through the air. So an electrical circuit needs two pipes, one to carry the electrons to the load and another to carry it back (the "return") to the pump that creates the pressure (the transformer).
Bob Nelson
Terminal strips come in different varieties. Some have completely independent terminals, not connected to one another. Some have all the terminals connected together. But the kind you are probably interested in, like a "barrier strip" or "Jones strip", has the terminals connected in pairs, with insulating barriers separating the pairs so that you don't get an accidental connection.
With this common kind of terminal strip, you would probably connect several of the terminal pairs together by running a bare wire along one side of the strip, looping it under one screw of each terminal pair. This would connect together all the other terminals of these pairs. So you could connect one of them to a transformer terminal and each of the others (except for a few spares which you would wisely provide for future expansion) to one or another of the loads that you want to have connected to that transformer terminal.
Here is an example from Radio Shack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103229&cp=2032058.2032231.2032289&parentPage=family
The simplest way to connect a wire to the terminal strip is to loop the end of the wire, with the insulation stripped off, under a screw. Always loop the wire clockwise so that, when you tighten the screw, it is pulled under the screw head rather than pushed out.
Especially for stranded wire, a lug fastened to the end of the wire can make it much easier to attach the wire to the terminal strip. There are several kinds of lugs. A spade lug has two parallel prongs that fit on each side of the screw. It can be attached or removed just by slightly loosening the screw and sliding it straight in under the head. This is handy; but it can also be pulled loose accidentally. A ring lug completely encircles the screw; but you have to remove the screw to attach it or remove it. There are also compromise hook-shaped lugs. You can also get male Fast-on tabs (similar to the tabs under Fast-Track) that you can screw to the terminal block. You would then put female Fast-ons on the wires.
The information you just gave me was exactly what I was looking for Bob. It is starting to make sense now. The barrier strip is what I will use to connect the lights since I have them running on the same voltage. Once I master this simple wiring, I will start looking for new accessories to run. I'm still going to order, at the very least, the CTT wiring book since I'm sure it will help me to better understand the wiring concept. Your information will at least get me started. Thanks again!
Now if I could only find the 8x4 layout that will please my son......
mistyk11,
You might find material of interest on this forum that specializes in FasTrack:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel_FasTrack_System/
You have to join in order to browse or otherwise participate. Also, be advised that there are "Owner's Manuals" for virtually all the various pieces of FasTrack at www.Lionel.com
Misty,
If you are just looking for an easy way to connect a number of items such as lights and accessories to a transformer, this type of terminal block is easier than the barrier strip as it doesn't need any jumpers. It is already connected.
The are available from Miniatronics and MTH. Most hobby shop carry one or the other.
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=B_3
Hope this helps.
jefelectric wrote: Misty,If you are just looking for an easy way to connect a number of items such as lights and accessories to a transformer, this type of terminal block is easier than the barrier strip as it doesn't need any jumpers. It is already connected.The are available from Miniatronics and MTH. Most hobby shop carry one or the other.http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=B_3 Hope this helps.
So with this one, I wouldn't need to run the wire down each side?
mistyk11 wrote: So with this one, I wouldn't need to run the wire down each side?
That's correct. This style of terminal block is mounted on a circuit board and all are pre-connected. There is a bit of a price difference with this style versus the radio shack kind.
Jerry
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