Final wiring/layout pics

[jimhaleyscomet]

Great post!  This one will go in the FAQ post.

Jim H 

[yallaen]

For my layout, I just have several long runs from the transformer. I put in 2 feeders, spaced 10 feet apart. So, in essence, I have a feeder of 2 wires, soldered to the track on the middle track and outer track, about 10 feet in length, and another set of wire about 20 feet in length.

From my transformer, I have my center track power line, and my outer rail power line (using what your transformer's lettering calls for..my TW is backwards from most other transformers). These two wires run to a terminal block, with jumpers. If you look at the pics, you'll notice that all the black wires are on one side, and the red are on the other. The red wires, used for power on the center rail, are connected to one side of the terminal strip. They are each isolated from each other on their respective side. But, the terminal strip has a "jumper" that runs across to the opposite side. THere, my "red" wire is attached. It has a jumper that goes across all three of my red wires. Same on the black side. But, the black and red are isolated from each other.

 Why do this? So you don't have gobs of wires trying to be connected to your little transformer power post! Makes it neat and clean.

I used 12 AWG for my feeders based on recommendations from a. the group here, and b. my Father, the electrical engineer. I PROBABLY could have gotten away with 14 AWG, based on such a small (only 1 mainline) track system. The power to the switches is 16 AWG.

I soldered my track joints mainly for reliability sake: I didn't want them working loose. I soldered the center and outer rails, to keep them from coming apart. It also helps with conductivity.

[lionelsoni]

Soldering track joints is a way to ensure that the joints will be electrically invisible and not contribute to voltage drops along the track.  Some do it by soldering a very short piece of bare wire across the joint, others by soldering the rails directly together.  For a modest-sized layout, joint soldering can eliminate any need for feeders.

I solder my joints.  But I started doing it for mechanical rather than electrical reasons.  It can be very disruptive to a layout to try to remove a piece of track or a turnout, requiring removal of large amounts of track in either direction.  By leaving out track pins and depending entirely on solder, I can lift a piece straight up after sucking the solder out of the joints.

Feeders are heavy wire that supplements the track's conductivity when its electrical resistance is too great to keep the voltage up at a distance from the transformer.  Feeders need to be substantially better conductors than the track itself to be of much use.  I recommend 14 or 12 AWG.  How many and connected to the track at what intervals depends on how bad the track conductivity is or is expected to become as the (non-soldered) joints age.  Some like to put in frequent feeders from the start.  Others, like me, add feeders only when and where I see the trains slowing down.

[Anonymous]

 

I started this several months ago. I've finally got all the track foam glued down, track soldered together, feeder wires put in. I've run my power wires to each switch except 1, but that's not hard...and I'm done.

As far as wiring goes..I put feeders every 10 feet. I didn't put feeders on each end return loop...if the train slows down..it keeps it from falling off and onto the concrete :)

 

question about soldering track....is this neccessary or just an extra percaution?

 

and 10ft run feeders..what is that exactly ?

sorry not very smart

[fjerome]

i used brennan's better ballast http://www.brennansmodelrr.com/ and was very happy with it.

[yallaen]

Since there were several q's today about wiring, terminal blocks, etc., I figured I'd shoot a cpl pics and add them to update everyone where I'm at on my layout.

I started this several months ago. I've finally got all the track foam glued down, track soldered together, feeder wires put in. I've run my power wires to each switch except 1, but that's not hard...and I'm done.

As far as wiring goes..I put feeders every 10 feet. I didn't put feeders on each end return loop...if the train slows down..it keeps it from falling off and onto the concrete :)

Here are the pics of how I finished wiring:

If you notice, I used wire tie-downs about every 4 feet. But I didn't like how the wires drooped inbetween. So, I used the wife's hotglue gun. Now, someone mentioned in a post that the wire insulation would melt if hot glue was used...nope. Not 1 melted wire. I don't know if you can see good enough, but what I did was put glue on the underside of the wires, then i ran a bead up and over the wires to the other side..like a seat belt. Worked fantastic!

Now, the wires run underneath the shelving to my bookcase. They run thru a hole in the side, up underneath the top, then down to my little box I made...

I have terminal blocks, 1 for power feeders (right side) and 1 for switch power (left side)

This is the final run into the shop area...very nice and clean...

And the final turn around loop in the little shop area..note the Elmer's Carpenter's Glue for Woodland Scenics foam roadbed

So, that begs the next question...

My wife wants to start on the scenery. I need to start ballasting the track. We've discussed this before, and I've heard kitty litter (can be dyed), premade ballast....what seems to work best? I'm thinking the kitty litter dyed a pinkish hue like the ballast around here. Then using the white glue/water mix to hold it together? Thoughts?

I bought a TMCC equipped diesel engine. I have the command base and controller. I'll be using my TW transformer eventually for accessories. I bought a TMCC 300 controller. It should be here before my engine :( Am I missing anything?