...and I've got Phantom Uncoupling...yikes!

[Jim Duda]

Well...I found the Phantom and I disposed of it...seems that my 500,000 mile 2466WX tender's wheels just plain wore out! They were so worn on the axles that they "wobbled" at least 5-10 degrees and would actually fall between the outer rail and the blade on the switch frog (hope I used the correct term!), allowing the pick up to touch the center rail.

I picked up a low mileage 6466W (so it still looks OK with the 675 loco) on ebay and now it glides over the switches like hot butter on a hot bagel. Hate to retire the 2466 because the whistle frame is metal and sounds MUCH better than the plastic one on the 6466. I think I could swap whistle units, but right now, I just wanna enjoy watching it run during the Holidays.

Happy Holidays, everyone!

Jim in Austin, TX

[Jim Duda]

"Is the plastic part of the shoe worn?"
Hardly at all.

"Or does the metal rivet stick down lower than the ridges on the shoe?"
No, I even filed it down so it's more flat than domed now.

" Are you using the fixed voltage plugs with the 022 switches?"
Yes!

I'll try bending the center rail slightly to see if that helps.

THANKS!

[Big_Boy_4005]

In order to activate the coupler, the rivet head (the metal contact of the shoe) needs to connect to the hot (center) rail. Since one end of the coil is connected directly truck, and is always in contact with the outside rail, somehow it is being energized as it passes through the switch. Is the plastic part of the shoe worn? Or does the metal rivet stick down lower than the ridges on the shoe?

Perhaps the rivet is just touching the center contact of the switch before it rides up out of the way. Try bending the tip of the center rail down just a little, its that flat tapered section that goes over the points (the moving part of the switch).

[Jim Duda]

Thanks - I'll scrub 'em good with a soft cloth and alcohol or goo-gone...or something. I brought up the thing about proper wheel spacing which I think you would call "gauging the wheels". Since I don't have a gauge how do you test it? Just roll the wheels along the track so they're just barely free? How much "slop" (clearance) should there be between the flanges and the inside rails?

Jim

[Anonymous]

Check to make sure that the switch rails are really super clean, Jim. Oftentimes that will take care of that sparking, which I suspect may be a big enough spark to cause a short circuit right at the coupler, causing the 'phantom brakeman' to release the uncoupling pin!
I've had good results with just making sure the rails, wheels and other contacts are clean.

[Jim Duda]

Both my 2466WX tender and the 2460 Bucyrus Erie crane cars quite often spark and/or uncouple as they enter an O-22 switch. I know there must be a correct name for the end of the switch that has two entry points vs. the other end with only one...but it only occurs at the double end when it enters on the "straight" rail. I suspect that since both cars have the coil coupler/pick up shoe that this must somehow touch part of the switch it isn't supposed to...

Are coil couplers notorious for being actuated by the O-22s? Switch looks perfect - nothing bent. Could incorrect wheel spacing be the culprit? Suggestions much appreciated!

Jim Duda
Austin, TX