I just bought a basketcase 2343 and have it in good working order. I have never owned or ran one of these so I don't know how well they are supposed to pull.
It pulls 4 postwar aluminum and the dummy 2343 fine but that is with a good ZW all the way open. Is this normal? How can I get oil to the axle bearings since that is the only thing that I'm not 100% sure got its fair share. Its greased in all the correct spots and the brushes and commutator face are in good shape. It almost seems like the magnatraction is too good. Anyone?
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
I did the same thing as you...bought a basket case 2343 and overhauled it and mine seemed like it stuck right to the track too! Until I took everything apart and removed the caked up grease and repacked w/new grease. Another thing to check is to make sure the inside of the wheel flanges are not rubbing on the truck frame. Due to the worm gear geometry, the drive axels are thrust either left or right depending on fwd or rev, and if your unit is badly worn the wheels could start to rub which drastically kills the 2343 pulling power. Also with two motors it's imperative that both are indeed running; if one motor is dead the other will be extremely hard pressed to even move the loco I would imagine.
Good Luck,Roland
Also check to make sure you have all the thrust bearings in their proper place for the motors.
Here's an absolute Must-have resource:http://pictures.olsenstoy.com//2343p.htm
I love to read about these types of projects. Bringing an old basket case toy train back to life fascinates me. Keep us posted on your project's progress.
P.S. My Williams 2343s will pull a Buick! Strong like bull locomotive! See for yourself. Watch the outer loop by clicking on the link below.
Williams 2343s in Action
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
1688torpedo wrote: Jim A- If your Williams F-3 can pull a Buick, then a Corvair should be a Piece of Cake for it to pull. Maybe Bruce Webster can make a stop in Lexington to see how well it can pull his 1963 Corvair! Take Care.
Cake, Keith Baby!!!
NOt long ago I completely broke down my 2354 NYC. It was exceptionally noisy and was running very hot.
The worm shaft bearing/bushings should not be mishapen and should be pretty circular in the opening shape. after closer inspection I could see mine were worn so I obtained 4 new ones from Jeff Kane. This really made a difference as did a complete regreasing and rebuilding with new lube.
My starting voltage with six or seven mixed freight cars is about 10 volts. When these babies are tuned properly they can even creep around 031 curves.
Mike S.
I second, or third the suggestion about a full cleaning. Take verything apart and soak the mechanical parts. I used simple green on my 2345 and then scrubbed it with a toothbrush. My teeth turned black the next time I brushed my teeth, however. :)
With everything apart this allows you to repaint your chasis, front aprons and truck sides if you so wish.
What are your plans for the cabs if I my ask. You have four options. 1) Leave them as is. 2)repaint them yourself 3)Get a pro restoration or 4) Find a new origonal or restored cab.
I am acuiring F3 parts myself to build some units up. Nothing more fun than to run an engine you brought back to life.
Good Luck
I made sure both motors running as equals. Both start at about 10 volts. I'll try new bearings/bushings and see. There is a little play in the wheels on both trucks but it is damn little.
Thanks to everybody who replied.
And to TrainsandMusic....I plan on repainting the shell. I did the dummy few months ago and was impressed it came out as good as it did. I wouldn't settle for crappy restorations. Testors 1246 metalic silver, and red Krylon paint for plastics called Fusion. Since the Sante fe has all those twists and turns with the yellow and black striping I had think of a way to mask it off. In comes my new best friend - car pin striping. It gives you straight as an arrow lines if you want that or it bends great also. The kind I bought had two strips to it. One was the width of the yellow stripe and the other was the width of the black stripe. It takes a while but totally worth it. I've used it for other things now and gives great crisp results.
For the lettering I use black acrylic paint that I use to paint figures with. It is thin enough that when you dip a SINGLE PAINT BRISTLE in and lay it in the channel for the letter it just runs enough to fill it up and you're done. It worked for me anyway.
Just as a heads up, I'm now producing F3 Magnatraction axles in my shop. These are brand new manufacture and make use of very powerful, high quality Neodymium magnets. These aren't those cheap, crappy "re-charged" or "China specials" you see at all the parts vendors tables. These babies grab the rails! Made with high quality 304 stainless steel bodies and oil hardened tool steel end caps (the part that presses into the wheel). For the purists they also look very similar to the originals. It would take a highly trained eye to tell them apart. If you'd like more information let me know.
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