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Questions for Ben10ben

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Posted by cwburfle on Wednesday, May 2, 2007 6:04 AM
Boy, I don't think any train repair is worth working with chemicals that are clearly hazardous to one's health.
  • Member since
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  • From: New England
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Posted by Jumijo on Wednesday, May 2, 2007 5:53 AM

Well, plain old isopropyl alcohol did the trick. I didn't have any Hexane or Barcolene, so I stripped the motor down to components, dropped the small stuff in an alcohol bath, and sprayed the motor with the CRC. All are squeaky clean and ready for reassembly.

I took the shell and pilot and put them in a plastic tub of sudsy water to soak. They were glossy black when they went in, almost flat black when they came out! 

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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  • From: The Netherlands
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Posted by More to restore on Tuesday, May 1, 2007 3:03 PM

Ben, just a small word of caution about pure hexane. I notice that you like the liquid because of it quick evaporation, but you should try to avoid inhalation of the vapour. n-Hexane is metabolized in the body to 2,5-hexadione which is a neurotoxin. I know that this happens slowly and you should get a fair amount into your lungs for a longer time to create undesired effects, but nevertheless it is better to avoid than to cure. n-hexane is the only alkane with this adverse effect, therefore it is less unhealthy to use pentane, iso-hexanes, heptane, iso-octane or mixed mineral spirits with the right boiling points and work in a ventilated work place (like in the garden, that is my solution). But perhaps you are already doing that.

Greetings

Egbert 

Nothing beats a finished and restored train car......
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Posted by pbjwilson on Tuesday, May 1, 2007 7:28 AM
My dad was a chemist and would bring home a solvent called BARCOTHENE. I think that is the spelling. I used it on my slot car motors. I'd dunk the armature in the barcothene and it would instantly clean. A few minutes drying time and I could reassemble my car. Where you can find the stuff, I dont know. But if you can, its great stuff.
  • Member since
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  • From: Frankfort, Kentucky
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Posted by ben10ben on Monday, April 30, 2007 11:24 AM

Jim,

24 hours should be more than enough-I would feel perfectly safe putting power to it within 30 minutes or so of removing it from the solvent.

I will indeed keep you all posted on the 2055 as soon as I get around do doing some more work on it.  I really enjoy saving pieces from the trash, too-I just have been too short on time lately to do much on it. 

Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Jumijo on Monday, April 30, 2007 11:17 AM

Thanks, Ben. I have that lighter fluid at home. I would think 24 hours would be enough time for it to evaporate?

Please keep us posted on the 2055. I love those type of projects!

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

  • Member since
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  • From: Frankfort, Kentucky
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Posted by ben10ben on Monday, April 30, 2007 11:14 AM

Jim,

Rather than using mineral spirits and then having to worry about cleaning up the remnants, I would instead let it soak in a refined volatile solvent that will evaporate completely with no residue.

If you can find pure hexane, the primary constituent of mineral spirits, I would suggest using that. Failing the pure hexane, I'd probably go with naptha, which is commonly sold under the Ronsonol brand name as lighter fluid. 

If you go that route, you can just let the motor dry for a few minutes in the open air and all of the solvent should then be gone. Don't try apply power until it does completely evaporate, though, or you may find out why it's called lighter fluid. 

I haven't had a chance to do much with the 2055 lately. Hopefully, I can get it painted this summer and running. 

Ben TCA 09-63474
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: New England
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Questions for Ben10ben
Posted by Jumijo on Monday, April 30, 2007 10:49 AM

Ben, I have a 2018 that has a very oily motor. Some of the oil is hardened and thick. I want to clean it with mineral spirits, which will disolve the oil with a little soaking. If I let the motor sit in the mineral spirits to disolve the gunk, can I then clean off the mineral spirits with CRC tuner cleaner? I'd rather rinse off the mineral spirits with the tuner cleaner instead of soap and water as Jim Barrett suggests. I'm asking you because you seem to know your chemicals.

Second question - how is your basket case 2055 project coming along? I haven'st seen you post anything about it for a while now.

 Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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