O-27 Lionel remote switch problem

[ChiefEagles]

Thor, there is a item on this forum that tells you how to change it to aux power.  Fiber pins have to go on the two inside rails to keep them from thinking a "engine/car" is entering the switch.  FYI

[thor]

I am not sure what is meant by 'control rails'.

The power inputs are three threaded studs. Two, the left and centre (viewing it from the solenoid edge) run through the plastic but terminate inside. The third, closest to the coil, goes through the cover and the base and is attached thereto with a nut.

I think I see your problem.

Those three threaded studs are not power inputs.  They are the controller binding posts.  Power comes solely from the track on those switches.  The manual can read & downloaded here:

O-27 Switches Manual 

Rob 

Bingo! Thanks a bunch Rob. I bought it boxed but it was beat up (thats why I got it for $10) and had no instructions no did it have insulator pins. It had no pins at all. So I naturally assumed it needed steel pins and connected it up like that, hence the problem! Wow! That was easy. Once again the forum comes up trumps, you saved me from stripping a perfectly good turnout. I am most grateful and also to Lionelsoni and anyone else who answers.

[ADCX Rob]

I am not sure what is meant by 'control rails'.

The power inputs are three threaded studs. Two, the left and centre (viewing it from the solenoid edge) run through the plastic but terminate inside. The third, closest to the coil, goes through the cover and the base and is attached thereto with a nut.

I think I see your problem.

Those three threaded studs are not power inputs.  They are the controller binding posts.  Power comes solely from the track on those switches.  The manual can read & downloaded here:

O-27 Switches Manual 

Rob 

[thor]

Is there any chance that one of the control rails is touching a regular outside rail?.

I am not sure what is meant by 'control rails'.

The power inputs are three threaded studs. Two, the left and centre (viewing it from the solenoid edge) run through the plastic but terminate inside. The third, closest to the coil, goes through the cover and the base and is attached thereto with a nut.

I gently pried the solenoid up away from the plastic clips that secure it at the operating rod end and could see three white insulated wires all of which seem okay, no copper touching steel that I can see.

The rail attachment clips touch the steel baseplate on the underside so perhaps I'll try insulating that third input stud first to see if that breaks the route that track power is finding to activate the coil. I can use electrical tape and fiber washers to make it isolated from the baseplate.

I really hope to avoid drilling out those rivets! Its not that its so hard as much as I'll have to go off and search for a suitable source of small nuts and bolts.

[lionelsoni]

Is there any chance that one of the control rails is touching a regular outside rail?

It is possible that one of the coil wires is making intermittent contact internally with an outside rail or the metal bottom of the turnout.  It is not easy to take the turnout apart.  If you want to try, be prepared to drill out any rivets, including the riveted bottom of the frog casting.  The frog can be reinstalled by drilling through and tapping the post on its bottom for a 6-32 flathead screw.  The screw should not be so long as to protrude through the top of the frog.  Other rivets can be replaced by small screws.

[thor]

I've just bought a new/old Lionel 027 remote track switch (it can't be THAT old though as it says Made in China) and its switching all by itself without being connected! I dont know exactly what aspect of track power is doing it, I thought the direction change button was responsible but it looks as if its occasionally going off for no apparent reason except maybe a spike from the loco running on the main line.

Anyway before I grind off every rivet in sight and risk it falling apart in a welter of small pieces I'll never get back together again, is there something else to try first?

I undid the screw on the top cover that allows access to the coils but cant see anything useful. I'm guessing there's a mis-connection or a short inside it thats causing this but maybe its a known error so I thought I'd best ask first. Thanks in advance.