Time To Hit The Brick(s)?

[chuck]

The TPC's are a great product, that's what I use.  The PW ZW has been relegated to accessory power.  It's actually pretty nice for that in that I can set the handles for different steps and pull the appropriate voltage from whatever tap I want/need.

[nblum]

Jon, depends on how much power you need and whether you need several independent loops worth of power, and whether you want to use the cab-1 remote.  If you need three or more loops and like the remote, consider the new ZW, which comes with two bricks, and has built in remote capability, as you no doubt know.  I've had great luck with Lionel 135 watt bricks over the last 11 years or so, and even with the Powermaster, once a faulty one was replaced 10 years ago, it works fine.  If  I had to do it now, I'd spring for the pricey, but nostalgic, beautiful :) new ZW, even if I was operating primarily conventional.  But it may be more money than you want to spend, or overkill. 

 

The Powermaster and a 180watt brick are the cheapest remote control wattage you can buy, and really improve the control over postwar and similar locos (speedwise).  It's amazing the difference the Powermaster or TPC makes in controlling those AC open frame motors, or the modern can motors.  For not much over $150 (Powermaster and Brick), you get remote control and better performance, plus 180 watts.  Pretty good value, reliable, and not available in that price range from any other vendor.

[Kooljock1]

I was using the higher output post combination. I think it is just a bad roller on the handle. By switching over to the fixed posts, I am able to put out the voltage I need.

I was using the KW so I could run my conventional Pre and Post War trains using the handles. But with a TPC-300/180 brick combo I can do that via a CAB-1.

Brian,

I agree with everything you said, except that it was the old KW that failed, and not the new stuff. I find on average that my old #2046, #675, #238E, and #262 all require the same maintenence as the new stuff. It's just of a different kind. On one hand it's e-unit drums, contacts, brushes, and commutator plates, while on the other it's re-packing smoke units, replacing traction tires, cleaning track more often, and de-bugging signals to the layout.

But I only buy toy trains, traditional sized ones at that!

Jon

[Back2Trains]

If you have 18+ volts on the fixed posts at load, you don't have any problem with the transformer itself. What terminals were you using? For full variable voltage you should be using either posts A-U of B-U. It is possible to wire a KW so that you are only using the 14 volt variable winding without the 6 volt booster winding. This will only give you only 0-14 volts no load. This would happen if you wired either post A or B to either C or D (as I read the schematic). I have restored several KWs and without looking further into it I can't see how your problem should happen but I have been a technician for enough years to know that doesn't mean it didn't. By the way, depending on how large your wattage draw is, you may want to consider a larger transformer or bricks. A KW's voltage falls off rapidly as the wattage draw increases.

[EIS2]

brianel,

Well said.  I whole-heatedly agree.  I have high-end (TMCC and PS2), prewar and postwar trains.  When the high-end trains work, they are fine.  When they have problems, it usually means shipping them for a costly repair with a long turn-around time.  When my prewar or postwar engines need repair, I always do it myself and it is always under one hour. 

My prewar and postwar trains get the most run-time on my layout.  I currently have two postwar trains running on my permanent layout and a prewar train (about 75 years old) running on a temporary floor layout in my living room.

Earl

[brianel027]

You know Jon I'm not very knowledgable on all these new electronic loaded trains. I do read often that it is better to run the modern higher end trains with more modern sine-wave tranformers, if nothing more than for the more updated circuitry and the faster response of the modern overload devices. Lionelsoni is far more qualified than I to offer advice and facts on this one.

I do know these higher end trains have done much to bring attention to the 3-rail hobby again and no doubt have wooed some back to the hobby. And have enhanced those folks enjoyment of the hobby. At the same though, I'm reading more and more of the failure rates, liabilities, lack of parts and timely service, and just in general the problems many are having with these trains.

Over the years I have taken some heat (especially on the other forum) for my relentless promotion and advocacy for more practical lower end trains. And I know it's not you Jon, but many others have offered critic and cynical retorts to my views. Yet a s time goes on, I feel more and more confident that at least for myself, I have made the right decision. Sure, once in a while you read of someone having a problem with a simple Lionel 4-4-2, or some other basic affordable engine. But these problems do seem to be in the real minority. More often than not (as witnessed on the thread on the Lionel 4-4-2 on the other forum) most folks with these kinds of trains are very happy and content... they work, they run, service and parts are both readily available.

I'm sure someone else can answer your question Jon. But as for me, it's the many threads along this line that assure me I made the right decision and that the hobby truly needs to focus so much more on practical, reliable, affordable trains that have a proven record on running and working reliably. Even the much ballyhooed, so-called cheap Lionel MPC era trains I would dare say have a better track record of reliability than do some of the newer trains.  I know my so-called inferior MPC locos have already proven beyond a doubt the test of time and still run better than many of the so-called improved newer locos.

[Buckeye Riveter]

Jon,

I use two 180 watt bricks and a TPC 300.  Roy McClellan advised me on this setup based upon my track length and layout.  I had to purchase two Lionel connections to make it work, but it has been great.  I have ran five trains at one time with two or three blowing smoke heading up the grade.  If I have a derailment, the breakers shut everything down in a blink of an eye.

I use a separate MTH transformer to run the accessories.  Started the layout in 2000 with TMCC and it has not missed a beat.  Much easier to wire the switches and accessories with the SC-2 controllers.  All of my conventional engines run perfect with the TPC 300.  My TAS TMCC conversions are doing great. Everything is hidden from view under the layout except the Cab-1.  Anytime you are in Ohio stop by and run the trains.  Bring maple syrup.

[Kooljock1]

I was running my layout this afternoon, and noticed my LionMaster T-1 was no longer smoking. I then ran my best smoker, my LionMaster J3a Hudson. It too gave no smoke.

Then I noticed the headlights were rather dim.

I ran a voltage check off the posts of my KW with the handles cranked all the way up: 11 volts!

I then touched the meter probes to the fixed posts, and got 18.77 volts.

I am now powering my tracks with the KW accessory posts. Sounds like the rollers are shot. But I'm thinking it's time to get a 180 watt brick or two and maybe some TPC's.

What say you?

Jon