a control system that's not for everyone

[Anonymous]

Hi Dave,

Just finished installing your system this afternoon in my Bachmann 4-6-0 and it is awesome!!!

I'm using 12, 2500mah nimh batteries for 14.4 volts.  The controler handles the 12 cells with no problem. The engine has been running all afternoon and the controler showed no signs of overheating.

Thanks again for turning me on to this system!

Regards, Junnie 

 

 

[FJ and G]

Junnie;

 

It's rated for 12 V but have been told by motor boat R/Cers that it will work. The boats get a lot more surge going thru them than the trains. You could try less voltage and see if it will still run, however. I've run O scale trains on just a few volts.

[Anonymous]

Hi FJ,

Great project......and great post to explain the way it was accomplished...Thank you!!!

I am just about ready to order the EMC for installation of your system in my G scale 4-6-0.

However, I have one question: I was planning to use 12 AA cells (14.2 volts) as a power supply. I assume the EMC would handle this since its nominal rating is 12 volts. What is your opinion on this?

Junnie  

[FJ and G]

Doug,

 

I take it out, but sometime this week I'm going to replace the on/off switch with a DPDT and use an extra cable (about $3) at Radio Shack that fits the battery plug and wire that in as a charging jack. The dpdt will allow me to shut power (center position) or to connect battery to the ESC or connect battery to the charging jack and charger

 

here's how the dpdt is wired:

 

 

 

 

[cnw1995]

You've accomplished a particular dream of mine - to someday similarly replace the innards of my beloved trolleys. I gotta save this thread!

How do you recharge the battery pack - take it out of the Plymouth?

[FJ and G]

thanks; guys,

 

Brent,

 

One of the vids shows O scale railking; other vids show g gauge plymouth; so yes; i'd go so far as to say it could be used in HO or S and as battery size decreases, it could be used in anything; the military already has experimental bee buzz bombs that fly around with mini cams on them, maybe bombs too 

[Jumijo]

David,

I sincerely believe that battery powered remote control is going to be a mainstream option for O gauge trains in the near future. Think of all the possibilities. All those rat's nests of wires under layouts that will be rendered obsolete... It's going to happen. As technology improves, we will see it.

Jim 

[Anonymous]

FJ,
That is flat out awesome!

Stupid question of the day - Can this be used in G-Scale for a Garden RR?  I am highly considering building a GRR in the backyard at the new house (probably next Spring/Summer) and that looks like it would be really cool to use on a GRR... no power to the track and just use battery powered/remote controlled engines...

Brent

[FJ and G]

Once again, would like to thank Jim Duda for turning me on to this remote control system.

For the 1 or 2 of you interested, here's how it works in great detail. It could be used to power a conventional 3-rail train.

Here’s a quick tutorial; the videos are at the bottom but look at the photos and description too; I’d do that first so the videos make more sense. I’ll be happy to answer questions.

First photo:

The metallic blue box on the left is the electronic speed controller, which we’ll call the ESC. THis particular one is waterproof, as it's used to power motorboats.  It has a bunch of wires sprouting from it.

One set of wires goes to the on/off button, which you see as the little black box. You install that under the train to turn the battery on and off.

Another set of wires goes to the battery.

Another set of wires goes to the red box. That’s the receiver with the red wire which is the antenna. I leave my antenna coiled up as I have no problem receiving a signal from a couple hundred feet away. Put the plug from the ESC in either channel 1 or channel 2 of the receiver. Don’t try to force it in as there’s a stop that makes it go in a certain way. If it doesn’t go in, turn the connector around and it will go into the ESC. The black thing on the lower right is the transmitter, which comes with the receiver.

Another set of wires from the ESC (2 wires), will go directly to the motor of the locomotives, or motors if more than 1 motor. If more than one motor, just wire to the first motor then connect that motor to the next motor. I have had 2 locomotives each with 2 motors (4 motors) hooked up in this manner, running off this one unit.

       

The wires from the motor have a different type of connection than the wires from the ESC that we just mentioned. Yuck; I HATE electronics! Last time I simple cut the connectors and direct soldered them, but this time I made a makeshift plug. That was only part of this operation that took about 2 minutes. Also, this time, I’m going without a fuse protector. If you want to use one, you can use a 10 amp fast blow fuse and attach it right here as you are attaching these wires. You can hook the wires any way you want (there are only 2 ways).

       

So now we stuff this into the Plymouth critter I built from wood and bits of metal. Velcro helps. The shell slips on in less than a second. The critter is 7/8n2 scale running on gauge 1 track but all the components take up just several inches of space and with a bit of creativeness, you can put this stuff in an O scale switcher; people have done it! Notice that NO battery car is used; all components go directly into the loco. In another video I showed earlier of an O gauge Railking loco, there was a battery car trailing it but I could have put all components into the loco or tender:

for reference:

Inside the O scale battery car:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ryF8XaVdv0
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy0S-XUDGxs

       

Here's complete parts list and instructions:


1. R/C car battery pack and charger 9.6V battery, NiMh, 1600 mAh from Radio Shack
From Radio Shack.
$20

Or, you could go to an R/C hobby shop and get a 7.2V NiMh 38000, as it'll last even longer (though I've been on my single battery for hours now.

2. ProBoat Waterproof ESC (Electronic Speed Control with Reverse
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB2314
$40

3. Ranger II HiTec Radio transmitter/receiver (order any channel)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXARP0**&P=0
$40

Total = $100


Here’s my original post with lots of details and schematics….

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/745665/ShowPost.aspx

First video is testing the servos. The servos plug into channels 1 and 2 of the ESC and the battery pack plugs into the battery slot, which is right next to the channels 1 and 2 slots. NOTE that you will NOT use the servos and you will NOT use the small battery pack shown. We’re just checking to ensure that the left and right stick work (below the stick and to the sides are sliders so you can put the train on auto-pilot without holding the spring lever,which returns to center or neutral). Note when running the train, you will only use one of the sticks (you could use the other stick to power the servo to turn the engineers head or something if you like). Notice that no wires are connected between the transmitter and reciver; the signal travels thru the air; not thru the rails!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtU3suwF0sI

Next video:

Video #3

Shows the ESC (blue box) and receiver (red box), and the wires from the ESC going into channel 2 of the receiver (but could go into channel 1 if you wish). Notice that the antenna wire attached to the receiver remains coiled. Also shows the battery connecting the ESC. This particular battery is a 9.6V battery, NiMh, 1600 mAh from Radio Shack. See the critter I built from scratch? We’re gonna stuff it all inside that little bugger.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkPlRiffB1A



Video #4
   
 A quicky test

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QwiZPIlsNE

Video #5

Shell on and floor test


She’s good to go and ready and rarin to hit the tracks (or make some of her own)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa0ZpVZZf3g