laz 57 wrote: NICE work GIZ on the portals.JOHN CSX, Love the video and the commentary OOPS comment. Here's one from last year that my wife wanted on....laz57
NICE work GIZ on the portals.
JOHN CSX, Love the video and the commentary OOPS comment.
Here's one from last year that my wife wanted on....
laz57
Laz : Thanks !! Also I remember the Easter doggy picture !! Good one !!
Thanks, John
Frank, I picked up one of those 90 degree jigs from Home Depot, they have them for about $9. Thanks for the idea. Lisa and Jim, I have gained some ideas from your fine work as well. I know a good bit about working on small motors and figure I will have little problems working on my engines except for the same problem I have with working on the layout....just doesn't seem to be enough time. Excellent work by everyone.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Lisa,
My daughter (6 years old) and I scratchbuilt the station from a 1x4. The chimney is also made from foam.
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
JIM - Love that stone wall - GREAT job! Looks like you used the same technique for the chimney on the the station. Did you scratch build that too? REALLY NICE!
FRANK53 - I actually drew the pattern on heavy art paper (easy to square up and holds things together easily) and glued the wood strips to it. I like your gizmo from Ace. Good find. Also, I need to get a miniature mitre box soon!
DOUG M - Like Jim, I also use the acrylic craft paints - $.44 at Wallyworld. Good selection of colors, but I still mix and blend sometimes using a little $.99 plastic paint pallette. I thin them with a little water. I used a little brown and some antique gold thinned down for a "stain" on the timber portal. "Smoked" the top with some thinned black. Here's a picture of the scribing tools - got them at Michaels or WallyWorld - can't remember. There are 6 different size points.
CHIEF - Maybe I can help you with your scenery if you'd help me with my electrical/mechanical stuff???
Lisa
I admit, I don't work on my own trains - I should be, but I have so much else going on I do not have the time to learn the ins and outs.
I figure it will take me at least two more years building my layout., After that I'm going to start tacking sprucing these up one by one and learning more about maintaining them and doing repairs. I have a guy at the local hobby shop who does all of my repairs, does a great job and charges me hardly anything. I also have a fellow I met on MTJ who did some overhauls for me very reasonably.
Just another item on my long list of things to do.
Frank53 wrote: jaabat wrote: And because of you, I'm now able to take an engine apart and work on it!Jim Me Too! - putting it back together however - that's another story . . .
jaabat wrote: And because of you, I'm now able to take an engine apart and work on it!Jim
And because of you, I'm now able to take an engine apart and work on it!
Me Too! - putting it back together however - that's another story . . .
Honestly, Frank, that is sometimes the hardest part! I took a 2037 apart Saturday night. Getting the side rods and the steam chest all back together was more difficult than replacing the smoke element!
Doug, I use that cheap craft store acrylic paint. Nothing fancy whatsoever.
Chief, if I can do scenery, anyone can! And because of you, I'm now able to take an engine apart and work on it!
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
Ace is the place, Frank. But really, don't be so square.
Lisa-n-NC wrote: Here's a timber portal I made this week.
Here's a timber portal I made this week.
Now I feel guilty about having bought a couple of portals. That's a nice looking portal and looking at it close up, probably not extremely difficult to make once you get it squared up. Nice job.
I picked up one of these at Ace Hardware last week for getting things square. I've been makeshifting that process and this should help give me good sharp corners. I think it was $8.00 or so .
Your skills are pretty impressive! I've only used a pencil to "carve" foam. It also will rip out random chunks of material. Below is an example of a stone wall I did with the same techniques and materials:">
I really like those track supports! Extremely realistic and convincing! You are on your way to creating a fine layout. Keep posting photos of your progress!
Jim - Ever tried using a clay carving tool? This is a picture I was going to post yesterday but had trouble with Shutterfly. This is another of my scratchbuilt houses sitting temporarily in front of a couple of bridge piers I made from some 1/4" project board made by Elmers. I removed the paper from one side and scribed with the carving tool. Then glued the painted sections to a 1x4" wood block that is supporting the elevated track. I like the carving tool (they come in various sizes) as it often leaves little chunks that look like uneven mortar joints.
I scribed lines in the paper covered foamboard for the house with a semi-dull hobby knife for a clapboard siding look. Ooops - looks like the strong winds we've been having has lifted the roof a little! (Haven't attached the roof yet - need to add a light inside!)
Lisa-n-NC wrote:Jim - Thanks! Hey, I think the Chief's portals look great - you did a fine job. Would you tell me what you used to make them?Lisa
Jim - Thanks! Hey, I think the Chief's portals look great - you did a fine job. Would you tell me what you used to make them?
I made the Chief's portals from 1" thick rigid foam insulation panels. I scribed the joint lines into the foam with a pencil (tip blunted), painted everything flat black, then added the gray stone color over that.
Lisa-n-NC wrote:Great pictures this week. Enjoyed all the Easter parades!! Here's a timber portal I made this week. Still a lot of scenery to do around it but considering the rather frigid temps here this weekend, guess "ice blue" is appropriate!Hope all had a wonderful Easter. Lisa
Great pictures this week. Enjoyed all the Easter parades!!
Here's a timber portal I made this week. Still a lot of scenery to do around it but considering the rather frigid temps here this weekend, guess "ice blue" is appropriate!
Hope all had a wonderful Easter.
Excellent work on that portal! It looks great! Wish I could say the same for Chief's.
What is that coming down the track ???????
It's the Easter Bunny Express !!!!!!!
Ain't it fun to be a "Train Nut" with a serious sense of humor !
Maybe I should change that to "Less Than Serious"...
Remember the Veterans. Past, present and future.
www.sd3r.org
Proud New Member Of The NRA
David, great RC you have there. I think BB has some reservations about it on the carpet though. Perhaps she is afraid you will be a carpet runner like the Chief for so long.
Everyone has done a great job as usual. Lisa, great work on the portal (good ol' Southern Ingenuity). Hope to be making some for my own layout soon.
Lisa-n-NC wrote: Great pictures this week. Enjoyed all the Easter parades!! Here's a timber portal I made this week. Still a lot of scenery to do around it but considering the rather frigid temps here this weekend, guess "ice blue" is appropriate!Hope all had a wonderful Easter. Lisa
Very nice Lisa & I even made some just like that too !! Chief's portals sure came out nice too !!
Thanks Buckeye, glad you liked that one too !! I don't think I'll make it to Hollywood with my work, though !!
Good photos everyone.
John, loved the video with the hand.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
pbjwilson wrote: This American Flyer was my brothers when he was a kid. Packed away 45 years ago in nonworking condition. After some cleaning, rewiring, and some new brushes, she runs like a champ.
This American Flyer was my brothers when he was a kid. Packed away 45 years ago in nonworking condition. After some cleaning, rewiring, and some new brushes, she runs like a champ.
Nice looking 300! The 300 is a tough little engine. Bullet proof operation! Keep up the good work Paul.
Here we go...I have clearance for a new layout..but it has to fold up into the wall so we can use the room as a bedroom for company. I think they'll leave it down to play with the trains.
Layout is 90x48, and I am trying a few things to see how it goes. Everything you see is a mock-up for testing. Final board will be on homasote and plywood...I might need a winch to fold this thing..
Cardboard is for buildings later. I wanted a mainline that disappears, and buildings seem to help shield the view, an underground passenger station, and a yard area.
Control Panel
View from door.
View from control
Comments welcome,
Kurt
lionroar88 wrote:Bruce,I have to take some better pics of the 622. It really needs a good cleaning and I have no idea how to do it... there is are a lot of blemishes on the black plastic shell. The 262E is actually in the best shape of the three engines, with a bit of TLC it would look awesome - needs some repro parts too (the flags come to mind first).Brent
Brent,
Carefully determine what the finish is on the 622. I'm not exactly sure if it's a painted plastic shell or simply molded of black plastic. It's best to start with the least caustic of cleaning methods then go heavier until you get the desired result. Pinted surfaces will be the most delicate so I'll start there. Most will attest to using a simple mild dish soap and water solution initially on painted surfaces. Cut down a soft paint brush so that the bristles are roughly 3/4" long. This can be used to get into grills, vents and around grab irons to thoroughly scrub these areas clean so that no unsightly left over dirt remains. Be especially careful to avoid any decals or stamped lettering when using the brush as the transfers and paint is particularily delicate. Wipe these areas with a dampened soft cloth only. Some stubborn stains can be removed from paint using Windex but be very cautious. Try an unseen area first to check that the Windex doesn't discolor the finish. Whatever method, finish off by rinsing with warm water, blot dry with a cloth and dry the shell with a hair dryer....not too much heat mind you! The end result is usually a medium matt finish that was the way they originally looked when new. I'd heastitate to coat the finish with wax or use rubbing compounds to enhance the gloss as these will tend to rub the paint through on high details such as rivets
Unpainted plastic can tolerate stronger cleaners such as Spray-Nine and Varsol. Again, test a hidden area first. These cleaners should never make contact with lettering and decals as damage is not only likely, it's a guarantee!. Light scratching can be rubbed out on plastic surfaces with mild automotive polishes ( I like Mothers pre-wax cleaner ). Go over the whole section ( such as the entire cab roof ) to avoid shiney blotches in small areas. Follow up with a detergent wash with your brush to dig out any remaining polish.
I won't go into cleaning the chassis and drive train suffice it to say I clean the crud off of motors with automotive brake cleaner...something that shouldn't be sprayed on paint.
Bruce Webster
My F3.
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