building a new controller for a 282 gantry crane

[msacco]

did it!!! installed my 282R and all is well, but I'm thinking that my original controller is going to take a beating from repeated use.

     How hard would it be to build one and what would I need?  Anyone have any ideas on this?

 

mike S.

[wrmcclellan]

Mike,

It would be pretty easy. I do not have the time right now for the wiring details (I assume Bob will catch this), but you will need 3 SPDT (ON-OFF-ON) where ON is momentary (ie the switch springs back tothe center OFF position when you let go) switches. Two of these will be used for the left-right and up-down controls and one is used for the electromagnet on-off (this switch actually only needs to be a SPST momentary ON switch - but either one works).

BTW - the electromagnet switch for the 282 has a locking position to keep it on, so you can use a regular on/off switch, but then you run the risk of leaving it on and overheating the magnet.

[msacco]

Thanks Roy,

I was hoping you and Bob would catch this and offer some advice. I'm pretty bad with switch ratings so if you guys could tell me what I need that would be great. I also could use some wiring help when you guys get a chance. Maybe Bob can explain it without a diagram.

 

Mike S.

[lionelsoni]

I do have one of those things; but I haven't ever even looked at it closely.  It just sits in a corner waiting for me to get around to it.  I did look at the service manual and saw that it shows lever-type controls, similar to turnout controls.  Mine, however, just has pushbuttons.

[wrmcclellan]

Mike,

I need to make a small correction. Note I do not own one of these guys but I have replaced wiring on a couple. SInce I do not have one I need you to confirm a couple of things.

The correction. The 282R actually needs 2 SPST switches (just one as momentary) and 1 SPDT switch.

The confirmations needed:

1. The left hand lever on the controller you have is to move the hook up and down (when the center lever is not engaging the clutch).

2. The center lever engages the clutch solenoid and allows the left hand lever to be used to move the crane left or right (instead of movin the hook up and down).

3. The right hand lever can move up and lock into a detent to engage the electromagnet.

Parts you need:

1. Switches - you can use the same switch for two of the levers (hook up/down- right left direction). Here is a Radio Shack switch (Model: 275-709) with more capability (20 amps) than we need but it has nice sized levers, momentary contact (w/center off) and spade terminals which you can solder to or use crimp terminals on the wires. Need 2 of these.

2. Electromagnet switch - this needs a regualr switch (RS Model: 275-652 ) but there is a risk. This turns the magnet on and if you leave it on as you can with your current controller, it can overheat.

3. A project box to mount the switches on unless you have a control panel you can mount them on. Radio Shack Model: 270-1803 or similar (look up project boxes on their web site for other selections). This one has a metal face and a plastic frame so you can drill holes for wires and not worry about them shorting to a metal frame (and using rubber grommets).

Look at your current controller. Validate this is the order of the wires. The flat cable is labeled wires 1 through 5 sequentially.

Wires 1 and 2 go the the left hand lever. These wires require a SPDT switch (thus a DPDT works fine and has a left over set of contacts) and is used to reverse the field windings on the motor for up/down/right/left direction.

Wire 3 (center of the cable) goes from the center lever to the solenoid that operates the clutch for moving the crane right/left. This wire requires a SPST switch. We will use just 2 terminals on the RS switch.

Wire 4 goes to the electromagnet. This wire requires a SPST switch. We will use just 2 terminals on the RS switch.

Wire 5 is to the transformer (A or U - does not matter)

The other post on the transformer connects to the common bus strip to the three levers in the 282R controller.

If you look at the RS switch, it has 6 terminals. The center ones are the common terminal (not to be confused with the term "common" for the return circuits on layouts - it is called common as it is common to the other two terminals on the switch).

Mount the 3 switches in a row on the project box. Connect the common terminals (center spade) together and then connect this to one side of the transformer.

On the left hand switch (Model: 275-709), connect wires 1 and 2 to the spade terminals underneath. (I assume at this point you know which ones to use - if not let us know).

On the center switch (Model: 275-709), connect wire 3 to one of the terminals to energize the clutch solenoid. If you pick the wrong one (assuming you want it to energize when you push the lever up) just move it to the opposite one.

On the right hand switch (Model: 275-652) connect wire 4 so the electromagnet is energized when the switch lever is up.

Hope this helps. If I missed something let me know.

 

[wrmcclellan]

Bob - it sounds like you have the earlier version 182 which has a pushbutton controller and has two motors instead of the single motor and clutch. No known schematics for that guy. I have a hand drawn one that a friend provided some time back.

[msacco]

Mike,

I need to make a small correction. Note I do not own one of these guys but I have replaced wiring on a couple. SInce I do not have one I need you to confirm a couple of things.

The correction. The 282R actually needs 2 SPST switches (just one as momentary) and 1 SPDT switch.

The confirmations needed:

1. The left hand lever on the controller you have is to move the hook up and down (when the center lever is not engaging the clutch).

2. The center lever engages the clutch solenoid and allows the left hand lever to be used to move the crane left or right (instead of movin the hook up and down).

3. The right hand lever can move up and lock into a detent to engage the electromagnet.

Parts you need:

1. Switches - you can use the same switch for two of the levers (hook up/down- right left direction). Here is a Radio Shack switch (Model: 275-709) with more capability (20 amps) than we need but it has nice sized levers, momentary contact (w/center off) and spade terminals which you can solder to or use crimp terminals on the wires. Need 2 of these.

2. Electromagnet switch - this needs a regualr switch (RS Model: 275-652 ) but there is a risk. This turns the magnet on and if you leave it on as you can with your current controller, it can overheat.

3. A project box to mount the switches on unless you have a control panel you can mount them on. Radio Shack Model: 270-1803 or similar (look up project boxes on their web site for other selections). This one has a metal face and a plastic frame so you can drill holes for wires and not worry about them shorting to a metal frame (and using rubber grommets).

Look at your current controller. Validate this is the order of the wires. The flat cable is labeled wires 1 through 5 sequentially.

Wires 1 and 2 go the the left hand lever. These wires require a SPDT switch (thus a DPDT works fine and has a left over set of contacts) and is used to reverse the field windings on the motor for up/down/right/left direction.

Wire 3 (center of the cable) goes from the center lever to the solenoid that operates the clutch for moving the crane right/left. This wire requires a SPST switch. We will use just 2 terminals on the RS switch.

Wire 4 goes to the electromagnet. This wire requires a SPST switch. We will use just 2 terminals on the RS switch.

Wire 5 is to the transformer (A or U - does not matter)

The other post on the transformer connects to the common bus strip to the three levers in the 282R controller.

If you look at the RS switch, it has 6 terminals. The center ones are the common terminal (not to be confused with the term "common" for the return circuits on layouts - it is called common as it is common to the other two terminals on the switch).

Mount the 3 switches in a row on the project box. Connect the common terminals (center spade) together and then connect this to one side of the transformer.

On the left hand switch (Model: 275-709), connect wires 1 and 2 to the spade terminals underneath. (I assume at this point you know which ones to use - if not let us know).

On the center switch (Model: 275-709), connect wire 3 to one of the terminals to energize the clutch solenoid. If you pick the wrong one (assuming you want it to energize when you push the lever up) just move it to the opposite one.

On the right hand switch (Model: 275-652) connect wire 4 so the electromagnet is energized when the switch lever is up.

Hope this helps. If I missed something let me know.

 

 Oh, Roy thanks!!!.

I don't know if this changes things but.... the first lever rotates the cab right and left without engaging the center clutch. Once the center clutch is engage the first lever then controls hook up and down movement.

Let me know if this affects your excellen wiring instructions.

thanks,

Mike S.

[wrmcclellan]

Mike,

Thanks. The left lever operating left/right direction does not change this.

A wiring diagram, although a bit difficult to interpret, is here on Olsen's site.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/accs/acc282p1.pdf

Good luck and let us know how it turns out if you decide to do this. You do not have to buy the parts at RS and there are lots of alternatives out there in terms of switch styles. Just make sure the left hand switch is at least a momentary center off SPDT, the center switch is at least a momentary (off is normal) SPST, and the right hand switch is a normal on/off switch.

 

[msacco]

ROY,

thanks again, and I will definitely get the swtiches from RS because i  now know which ones to get.  I'm a bit unsure as to what contacts to connect to for the first two switches but I will let you guys know when I get there.

 Mike S.

[msacco]

Roy & Bob,

Completed the repro controller today and it works perfectly. Special thanks Roy for the part nos. from Radio Shack. Without that I would have had a tough time. Here's a shot of it in place on the layout.

 

thanks,

Mike s.