I spray WD-40 on postwar die-cast steamers to improve the sheen of their paint. I just purchased an A.T.S.F. postwar switcher #623. The engine has a plastic shell and the paint is pretty dull. How can I improve the paint sheen on that engine?
Earl
sulafool wrote:ArmorAll; if you try it and don't like how it looks, it washes off with plain water
Whoa Earl, I'd be careful with the paint on a 623. I've seen many with missing paint on the edges or high spots. Mine also has a fragile paint job. Once while working on it the shell soflty brushed against my table and I lost a small amount of paint. Don't know why but i've seen this kind of paint loss on many black nw switchers. I'd be very careful here? I usually pledge my locos but I leave the 623 alone.
Mike S.
msacco wrote: Whoa Earl, I'd be careful with the paint on a 623. I've seen many with missing paint on the edges or high spots. Mine also has a fragile paint job. Once while working on it the shell soflty brushed against my table and I lost a small amount of paint. Don't know why but i've seen this kind of paint loss on many black nw switchers. I'd be very careful here? I usually pledge my locos but I leave the 623 alone.
Mike, thanks for the reply. The paint on my 623 is intact. I did not see any missing paint. I completely disassembled the loco today to clean it up and re-lube/grease it. I washed the shell in warm water and detergent.
Cleaning the engine and re-lubing reduced the voltage required to run the engine by about 5 volts. It really runs well now. The e-unit is a little noisy. I really like the lights on this engine. It has the brightest lights of any engine I have ever seen.
Is Pledge OK to use on decals?
Thanks...
Earl,
I'd stick with the ArmorAll. If washing the shell didn't harm the decals, neither will the ArmorAll. It's easier to apply than Pledge too. Just apply it gently and you should be ok.
Congratulations on purchasing such a nice loco. I've always admired the 623.
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
I don't know about the ArmorAll. I am not a chemical engineer, but when I was retoring my old 'Vette, all of the restoration sources said that the silicone in the ArmorAll would draw the chemicals out of the dash pad that cause it to remain flexible. As a result, the dashes would crack easier in cars with heavy ArmorAll use.
I have no idea if the compounds used in the shells of our trains would suffer, but I only use Pledge. For even better results, spray the shell with Pledge and then "slow cook" it for an hour or so. By slow-cook, that means just put it in a warmer-than-ambient area. When I was working part-time in a LHS in the 70's restoring old locos, we always used to put 'em on top of an old oil burner furnace in the wintertime - the old, covered-in-white-asbestos cast iron monstrosities. The 100 deg or so temp baked it really well, then you'd just buff up the shells with a soft cotton rag.
I tend to agree with Jim. I just don't like the idea of armorall and what's in it. But hey if it works for you then that's great. I stick with pledge cause it's a wax based product and it has worked well for me for years.
EIS2 wrote: I spray WD-40 on postwar die-cast steamers to improve the sheen of their paint. I just purchased an A.T.S.F. postwar switcher #623. The engine has a plastic shell and the paint is pretty dull. How can I improve the paint sheen on that engine?Earl
Earl:
As a railfan and daily train commuter who lived in the northeast for too many winters, I can't recall seeing too many diesels that kept a shiny paint job for very long, most of the engines had dull paint and went quite a distance before (if ever) being run through the washer. Most of the engines on my layout (as well as any black passenger car roofs) get a coat of Testor's clear Dull Coat which seems to greatly improve their appearance.
If you really want to add some shean to your engine, I would remove and carefully clean the shell with lukewarm water and dishwashing detergent - you can let it soak but don't scrub any painted, decaled, or stamped graphics on the engine. Rinse it well, let it air dry and then you can give it a coat of Testor's clear Gloss Coat. If it comes out too shiny, you can always cut it back with Semi-Gloss or Dull Coat.
Have fun!
Mike
Mike,
While I've used dull cote myself I wouldn't put it or any other coating on nice postwar pieces. Sure to kill them of any future collector value if one cares about these things. I prefer slightly shiny toy trains myself, so the that's the look I'm going for.
fifedog wrote:...how about throwing away those polyester shirts and leizure suits you've been wearing since the 70's...?
...and here I thought this about grooming tips
I still have those parachute pants.....
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
I've read many a comment, as well as using it myself and I've had no problem using Lemon Pledge on postwar trains that I want to leave as is. Of course, as always, it's good to find out what lettering process was used on the car. Some of the water based rubber stamping is certainly more prone for coming off. And caution around decals is always a rule... use a light touch over decals. On the brght side, I'm sure there are water-slide repro decals made for that decal... check with the Lionel parts dealers. You might want to do that first as a safety precaution and back up plan. Also not sure if that switcher is a painted body or molded plastic color.
I've certainly gotten some pretty dull looking postwar cars to look much much better again. But I for one, could care less about supposed collectible value. and that's probably a well advised attitude these days.
As far as I can see, overall prices on this stuff are going to continue downward (except for pristine mint condition in box pieces) unless this hobby starts really growing. A very large substantial part of the current hobby base is going to be deceased in the next 20 years (unpleasant thought, but reality). Who's gonna want this stuff then??? So I for one, wouldn't worry about that at all. I think the glory hey-day of high prices for absolutely everything (even MPC) are now gone for good.
As far as the other stuff, on my repaints I have been using INTERIOR type ArmorAll for over 16 years with zero problems. I use the ArmorAll as the final coating over the Testor Dull Cote for a nice satin sheen that also helps to "repell" dust and normal handling of the trains. I haven't seen the Interior style ArmorAll for sale anywhere recently.... hope it's still made. I bought a couple cases of it years ago when I realized how much I like it - and based on how much extensive repainting I do.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Almost any substance has some element of risk. I've used Armorall for several years and have seen no ill effects, even decals. I've heard the warning about dashboards, but trains are not made of vinyl. ArmorAll will trash rubber, as I learned the hard way on some expensive motorcycle tires--it's that "leaching out" thing. Seems to be OK for styrene plastic and certainly die cast parts.
Its effects vary, tho...some things come out a little too shiny, and others don't seem to respond to it very well at all (black painted tenders for some reason). In any case, like I mentioned before, if you don't like how it looks it will wash off easily with water. Get the original kind, too. I've tried the semi-gloss version and it isn't; harder to wipe down as well--seems sticky.
I sometimes use Pledge, but found that most of the shine wipes off when you rub it down. Also leaves a lemon-y (or other non-train) fragrance behind. It is also a petroleum product, I believe, for those obsessed by nasty contents. Wax? So what? I've heard ArmorAll is a wax also. Don't care either way.
FWIW, it's just my experience--based on actual use and not speculation or theory.
I elected to go with the Pledge. It really shines now. Looks like it went through a rain storm. I think it will dull a little in the next few days. The decals were not affected with the Pledge.
I am quite amazed at the innovation in this engine (623). The shell is removed with two quarter-turn fasteners. I had not seen those type of fasteners used in any other locos. It makes removing the shells very quick and easy. This is a very well-made fun engine to run.
Thank you all for your replies.
I have been using the Armorall cleaning and shining wiping cloths that are available in most auto stores. They do a good job of cleaning and i've had no problems with decals on any engines or cars.
The polishing wipes come in a shiny and a semi gloss version.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
EIS2 wrote: I am quite amazed at the innovation in this engine (623). The shell is removed with two quarter-turn fasteners. I had not seen those type of fasteners used in any other locos. It makes removing the shells very quick and easy. This is a very well-made fun engine to run.Thank you all for your replies.Earl
Earl, If you look in the latest CTT on pg 57, they talk about this feature and how it was used on the 623 and the 2023. Too bad it was not used on more. Just think, all those PW Trainmasters would not have the small cracks around the screw holes.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Thanks for all of your suggestions. Here is the loco after applying pledge. I did not take photos in the 'Before' condition.
I had a rough time getting decent pictures of a black loco. The pictures I took with the engine on the layout were too dark and did not show much detail. I took the loco out in natural light this morning and the photos showed more detail. I would like to get some better pictures on my layout. I sat the camera on the layout and used the timer so that there would be no camera shake. I did not use flash. Does anyone have some good suggestions for getting good photos of a black loco. I had the same problems getting good photos of my black Cocker Spaniel.
I also use pledge with great success. For crevises I take and old worn teeshirt rag with pledge on it then use and old toothbrush to work the rag into the details. The only problem I've seen with pledge is if you want to paint the item, you must remove all traces of the pledge for the paint to take correctly.
Nice job Earl!!!. I do swear by Pledge and have been using if for years as well. I do avoid decals with it though but I'm glad it's seems to be safe on them as well.
Beautiful switcher...
I was contemplating one of those 623's on an auction site, but none of them looked this good...I ended up with the 8111 in need of some attention.
That one is a real find!
Kurt
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month