Gargraves track - plastic vs. wood ties / tinplate vs. stainless

[Anonymous]

Planning THE layout and making track decisions.  I'm leaning towards gargraves track because of variety, cost, and compatability with Ross switches.  What are pros and cons of wood/plastic for ties and tinplate/stainless for rails.  Thanks,  Jim

[csxt30]

Jim, to the forum !! I've used Gargraves a good many years & use the Phantom line of flex track. Unless you have moisture problems or live by saltwater, or are planning an outdoor RR, I see no need for stainless & the greater expense. As far as the plastic ties, that's far more expensive also, but you get a nice, perfect shaped radius. Just be patient & learn to bend the flex & you should be good !! I think I get the 37" long sections for under 4 dollars each. I started by bending mine around the hot water heater, then made some templates out of wood to get some nice curves I wanted. They also have a video or book on Gargraves track. Remember the outside rails are not electricaly connected.

Thanks, John      

[Anonymous]

Jim, to the forum !! I've used Gargraves a good many years & use the Phantom line of flex track. Unless you have moisture problems or live by saltwater, or are planning an outdoor RR, I see no need for stainless & the greater expense. As far as the plastic ties, that's far more expensive also, but you get a nice, perfect shaped radius. Just be patient & learn to bend the flex & you should be good !! I think I get the 37" long sections for under 4 dollars each. I started by bending mine around the hot water heater, then made some templates out of wood to get some nice curves I wanted. They also have a video or book on Gargraves track. Remember the outside rails are not electricaly connected.

Thanks, John      

  You can't go wrong with Gargraves flex phantom wood ties, and Ross switches. Yea I know the ross are more expensive , but do you really want something that you have to fiddle with all the time.

I may get unloded on by some of the others here, but the Ross switches are great.

 

Tim

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys.  That pretty well seals it for Gargraves wood ties and tinplate and the Ross switches.  What $ I save on the track I can put to good switches.  I was thinking more of sectional than flex.  I used gargraves flex on my last permanent layout (over 35 years ago!) and didn't like the hassle of having to bend and cut each curve piece.   Granted I have far better tools now than I did as a teen!!!  Follow-up question:  power connection - solder or use the gargraves connector?  I'll be using TMCC systemwith drops to a 10 gauge stranded wire  (got tons of it left after a wiring job)

 Thanks much, Jim

[csxt30]

Jim, I solder all my wires to the side of the rails & I also run a ground wire around the entire layout, which is just the wire from like 12-2 house wiring that I strpped all the insulation off & put it around the entire layout & drop down all my grounds to & solder, even lights or accessories go to that bare ground wire. Never a signal problem for TMCC. Oh, yes, Ross is the best in switches, as Tim said !! Keep us posted with your progress !!

Thanks, John

[Anonymous]

 

    Jim, Here's the way I did it. I used the crimp on connectors, spade type on 14 ga wire. I puhed them into the rail from the bottom. One to center rail and one commom to each outer rail. I drilled a hole through the roadbed and let the wires hang down. I came back and tied them to my main track wire  12 ga later. They are invisible after ballast is applied.

I did'nt do every 3 ft section. I did every other section and have not had any power issues.

I did have to come back later and add another wire along the tracks for better TMCC reception in the areas where tracks cross over each other. You may want to do that when you are running your track power, instead of later. Even if youre not using TMCC now, you can add it later and all the wiring will be done.

Your timing was perfect, as I was taking up track this morning for storage.

I am sure there are other ways, but this made sense to my feeble brain......

Tim

 

 

[Anonymous]

 

 Jim, As an afterthought, If you can spring for it, get the Ross switches that have TMCC in them. You will love them, and dont have to have any controllers. Throw the switch using the Cab 1.  I really do love to help you guys spend your money.

 I will also add that I found the best price for the track and switches was from Bob at AM Hobbies . He has an E bay store and I think he now has an online store also. Very nice guy. I bought a lot of Atlas from him also.

Tim

[lionelsoni]

Those look like male Fastons; but you could use spade lugs, which would give you two connections per lug for redundancy.

[phillyreading]

lioneljim,

Gargraves curves are now pre-made in differant sizes such as 032, 042 054, 072 and one or two other sizes, the straight track comes in either flex or non flex and stainless steel or regular steel.  I have both the wood ties and plastic ties and like the look of the plastic ties better, also easier to drill the plastic ties and if you don't get the right size hole drilled with wood ties they can split.

One other nice feature about Gargraves and Ross switches is that the switch motors can be used on either Gargraves or Ross switches and they can be replaced.

The Gargraves connector has worked fine for me.

Lee F.

[Anonymous]

Jim

Solder every thing like John recommended. The spade connections have been know to come out and cause poor electrical connections over time, especially if you are using one of the command control systems.