TMCC Wiring Questions/Help

[ChiefEagles]

New ZW's have been known to cause some troubles with some Williams engines.  That is why I have stayed with the old ones. 

[jimhaleyscomet]

If you are going with TMCC I would strongly recomend the new ZW.  It will allow you remote control of your conventional (non command) control engines.  The new ZW will replace the need for TPCs. 

If you are running conventional you would still want blocks to run multiple trains (or for train sidings).  

 Jim H

[lionelsoni]

Size the wire to carry safely the greatest current that the transformer(s) can put out.  Use 10 AWG for 30 amperes, 12 for 20, 14 for 15, 16 for 10, 18 for 7, and 20 AWG for 5 amperes.  Since 12 and 14 AWG are so easy to find and cheap, it's a good idea to start with one of them even if you use a smaller transformer, to avoid having to rewire if you upgrade later.

("Buss" means "kiss".  The right spelling is "bus".)

[Anonymous]

Hello Chief,

 I haven't found any lighted lockon's for MTH Scale Trax. The only lockon(s) attach under the track into a groove in one of the ties.

With regards to the "buss bar", would that be the same as using a terminal strip (from MTH for example) and setup the wiring using the star method? That way I would be ok for DCS?

 Michael

[ChiefEagles]

Why not use MTH lighted lockons?  I find them real useful.  Can see track power from all over the layout.  Especially since I am in two different rooms.  I think I have about 10 or so.  I have each one of my sidings insolated and each loop is insolutaed.  Lighted lockons for each siding and each loop [several on each loop].  I would run all wires back to the "buss bar" [not required for TMCC] to eventiually add DCS.  You will eventually want to add DCS.  I run my conventionals with TPCs and the lighted lockons help me see the track voltage as I turn the CAB1 wheel.  The major problem with Realtrax that I have found is the switches.  I recommend you use a dremel tool and gap all "control rails" for the anti-derailing feature.  Also for any insolated blocks.  I have switches that are in the layout from the beginning and suddenly the control rail touches and the switch will not throw.  By gapping good, you will not have this problem.  Once the switches are gapped, they will work better than any other brand.  I think this problem is due to the later produced switches are not quality controled as they should be.   I "snapped" [sometimes fought with] my sections and turned long sections upside down.  This way I checked the contacting "pins".  They can be soldered if buffed to shine and then solder applied.  I then turned the big sections over and snapped them together.  Get a TPC to run your conventionals and PS1 and PS2 engines.  Later, add DCS to run PS2 engines.  TMCC and DCS will run together.  I also like the lighted bumpers.  Especially on tracks with off/on switches.

Mine is still under construction:

 

 

[Anonymous]

Hello All,

I am currently starting construction of my layout, and I have a few questions regarding (future) TMCC Setup.

Here is the Layout's Specs:
1) Track: MTH ScaleTrax (031 curves)
2) Two (2) Left-hand Switches
3) Size: 4'x7'-4"
4) Buildings: Grain-Wheat (?) bulbs, I would like to covert all lighting to LED'S (i.e.: Scotts Odds-n-Ends Kits).
5) Mountains/Tunnels will be located at the two rear corners of the layout. Constructed from Foam and gauze. (No wire screen).
6) Current Power: MTH Z-750 and an older Lionel BW-80 with both track power and accessory ports.
7) I have (1) PS-2 loco, (1) PS-1 subway set and a Williams A-A set (conventional).
8) One (1) Accessory track located in the yard area.
9) I will have a few misc. signals as well. I have one Scale MTH ITAD that I will use for an MTH 7-Light Signal. The rest will be Z-Stuff signals.

Now for my questions:

1) I will be looking to add TMCC probably at or just after the summer. I would like to pre-wire now for TMCC. Based on my track plan below, could you direct me as to the best way to wire my track drops? I will be locating a terminal block at the center of the layout. Also, I am looking for the best way to solder the wiring to ScaleTrax. A few people have not recommended using the MTH Lockons.

2) I really don't need to make any isolated blocks for the yard, for now I can switch loco's on and off the layout. Even when TMCC is up and running, I only expect to have two loco's on at one time. Do I need to make blocks for TMCC at all?

3) I am planning on a new ZW. I feel that my Z-750 and BW should be left to power accessories and done away with by the ZW. Some day if and when I build a bigger layout, I would then have the ZW on hand. Is that overkill for this size layout? Would you recommend a 180w brick and TPC 300 instead of a ZW?

4) How should I power/wire the switches?

5) How many power drops am I looking at? I have a few passenger sets and with the power draw, I would like to add extra drops. Just not sure as to the amount for the layout.

6) What wire gauge would you recommend.

7) Can I plug the command base into a outlet direct, or can it get plugged into a power strip?

The more things I read, the more it confuses me at times. This is such a simple setup, and due to space limitations, this all I can build. I don't want to miss out on running in command mode though.

Hope I haven't requested to much info at once, but I just want to be sure as to what I need to do.

Thanks again for you time, patience and help,

Michael