Fred Bear wrote:The easiest way I've found to make accurate, easy and cheap grades is from sheets of 1/2 inch foam. The type Lowe's sells for a few bucks for 110 or 12 sheets. Figure out how high you want the grade, the lay the sheets down end to end for the distance the grade will cover, snap a chalk line for the length of it, and cut. Keep the sheets touching end to end when you do this. Keep in mind you'll need four of each piece, as you'll line up the cut sheets side by side and glue a strip wide enough for your track bed plus a little, and you'll need to go back down also. Very simple to do, and cheap. Can be wrapped with plaster cloth, hit with some hydrocal, colored, add rocks, rock cliff, etc, makes a pretty nice piece of scenery for not much money. Jake
How does the 1/2 foam bend for curves? Do you need to scribe the foam?
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Here's the bevel square !
Thanks, John
Can you post a picture of that bevel square?
Which issue of MR are you referring to?
Modeling the "Fargo Area Rapid Transit" in O scale 3 rail.
Boyd wrote:What is a bevel square? I went to Menards looking for one and the employee didn't know what I was looking for.
It looks like a square but has an adjustable blade that can be placed at any angle and held there in place with a wing nut. Hope that helps. I use them here in the shop all the time.
laz57
Maybe this will help.....
http://www.jaktool.com/Track_Mate.htm
Tim C.
If you are to use wood like 2x4s and are going to graduate them up and down a good tool to have is a bevel square. It will help you in maintaining you angles.
The alternative to foam is using wood risers. Have one piece of wood (3/8" plywood or thin hardwood if straight) going as far as possible under the track. Stagger the ends of the wood with the ends of any given track. Then cut a set of risers for putting under the wood base. Only the last riser height is critical as the rest can be moved slightly up or down the grade to support the wood. It really is easy. If you are curving, then use the cookie cutter method on a piece of plywood. Then just add various height wood risers as needed. I think it was in a Christmas magazine a while back but can not remember witch one. Make sure the start and end of the grade taper a tad so your engines do not bottom out.
Jim H
TCA#09-63805
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