Lee,
Ah, I know the switches you are talking about. Those are different than what I have.
Chris,
I don't have enough room for 054 curves but I know that you can go faster through them than 042. I have four mainlines; 027 on the inside and 031 then 042 GarGraves on the outside, the layout is 8 feet by 11 feet. The upper level is 027 & GarGraves 032 track, GarGraves don't make an 031.
The Lionel switches that I am talking about #6-23010 & 6-23011 have sectional pieces like a GarGraves switch and the switch motor looks like an H.O. mounted one, four terminal screws on the side. Also for side to side mounting Lionel says to cut the indicator light boxes off.
Lee F.
Good to know. I haven't had a flat and level table until recently so I am finally getting to see how my equipment works and runs. So far I haven't run into any problems with the 1990's switches, but I don't have a large stable of products.
One thing is a big change is that O-27 engines and passenger cars can fly around those O-54 curves!! Whoohoo!
Chris
The same thing is said about Lionel's #6-23010 & 6-23011 switch for O gauge made in the mid 1990's. Williams Trains claims that these had a bad design also and were known for problems when using with Williams Trains.
Personally I won't buy new Lionel switches period!!!
Thanks Chris,
Sorry it took so long to respond..My in-law is comming to town, and things are a little hectic.
Kurt
Kurt,The switches are all of Lionel's modern O22 design - the regular O-31 sized tubular track switch. They are catalog part # 14062 and # 14063. This is not a problem with a certain "run" of the modern O22 switches. It is a design issue with the switch itself.
Check out this thread for the original post and a picture from Neil (a picture of Neil's erroded switch contacts is on page 2). Please note that while I originally state that I did not have a problem, once I saw Neil's picture, knew what to look for, and wiped away the lubricating grease from the contacts, I found the same thing taking place with my switches.
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1/1021797/ShowPost.aspx#1021797
If you take the switch machine off you are looking for contact plates that are erroding away. You may have to wipe grease off the contact plates to inspect them.
My switches are 13-15 months old, so they were manufactured earlier than 13-15 months ago, and are out of warranty so I am working on fixing them myself. A lot of the thread in the link above includes a discussion about fixing them.
It may also be an issue with Lionel's O-72 switch (catalog numbers # 65165 and # 65166), but no one has confirmed or denied any problems.
Folks on the other train forum dismissed the issue as a voltage issue and have ignored the thread there, but two other people on this forum (including myself) have confirmed what Neil originally reported in the thread "O22 Siwtch Contact Burning Out?" using lower voltages to the switches.
phillyreading wrote: What year is the 022 switch from? Like is it post war or current production?Lionel switches made within the last six months have some serious problems and need to be returned to Lionel for repair.Lee F.
What year is the 022 switch from? Like is it post war or current production?
Lionel switches made within the last six months have some serious problems and need to be returned to Lionel for repair.
Can someone tell me what to look for in the faulty switches? Is there a serial number series to watch for?
The problem besides the broken wire was the contact on the accessory voltage port not making contact with the pin with no plug inside it. Tiny bending with pliers did the trick!
So, I was still kinda awake when I read this, so I decided to tackle the problem before bed. LOL..
I didn't know what you meant by the ground strap. I'm guessing it's the brass strap underneath the rails the is bowed in the middle? Or are you talking about the little copper strap next to the contant voltage pin?
Either case, I happened to look really close at the voltage pin, and I noticed that the tiny wire coming from the solanoid to the contant voltage pin area was free-floating in space. I could see where it had broken off from a tab near the the contant voltage pin. Little heating of the soldering iron..and tada! Voltage plug works...as does the track voltage. Just too tired to finish putting stuff back together..I'll finish in the morning then update everyone with pics. I have to finish wiring the switches and such. That will be the project for tomorrow.
yallaen,
It sounds to me like a ground connection is open somewhere. Take the cover off (the bakelite cover over the coils), and connect one wire from a transformer to the contact where the constant voltage plug goes, then connect the other wire to a known ground ( metal plate over coils or base of mechanism). If the switch works now, we know the problem is an open ground. Check the ground link (it is on the same end of the switch as the motor). Bend it so it makes good contact with the base of the motor. I think that is where the problem is. Let us know what happens.
Well, I've had some time to kill..so I decided to finish up the last loop. After bonking my head several times and trying to be quiet so the wife could sleep before work..I got the loop done! I'll post pics in a while...
However, my last O-22 switch is acting up. I had another one cause problems, and posted about it. I appreciate the feedback on it..well, here's another problem..
Ok, so, putting the switch in with the track, etc. The light bulb does not come on, nor does it switch using the controller. Humm...also, the derailer feature does not work...oops..big crash :(
I took the switch apart and cleaned it up and lubed it. There was a bunch of gunk in there..and I noticed one of the solder joints had broken. I repaired that..but still no joy.
I've tested inline with track power, as well as the accessory port. Nada. Now, if I put it in the track, I get voltage between the center rail and the outer rail from all three points of the switch (facing and trailing normal movement, and diverging movement trailing end)
I did resistance checks on the little wires and all seemed ok.
Any help/suggestions to point me in the right direction would be great..I'd love to have this finished tonight!
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