Thanks Lee. I did see their ad in 0 Gauge RR magazine last month. They look close to the stock ties, I guess. Close enough for meanyhow. I think they are $15 for 100 of them.
Thanks,
Wes
Wes,
One solution for tubular track is to go to 3R Plastics website, www.3r-plastics.com, and order extra ties to put under the rails to make it look more realistic. It's a whole lot cheaper than replacing all your track by inserting extra ties.
Lee F.
How are you guys who use tube track with Ross or Gargraves switches dealing with the complete different look of ties? Ross and Gargraves have so many more ties, and resemble real track. I really like tubular track, but they don't look anywhere close to the same.
Just wondering,
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Thank you all for your helpful input and suggestions!
Bob Nelson
If you want decent switches go to GarGraves or Ross Custom switches, I have replaced all my Lionel switches with GarGraves and have no problems. Two things about GarGraves switches; 1. you will need adapter pins for the track, 2. you will need to wire the switch by the instructions from GarGraves. Track height for GarGraves and 027 is the same, the height of the swich machine is very low on Gargraves and will allow most any train to pass thru without problems.
I have seen Atlas switches and they look nice but take up a lot of space for any size above 031.
I know that Lionel has had problems with their switches in traditional O gauge for some time, the part numbers are 6-23011 & 6-23010, I had five of these switches and have had the worst time with them and Lionel will not acknowledge a problem with these switches but have replaced them with a newer switch.
Don't know for sure how reliable the posting is on another thread here on the Forum but from what I was able to underestand about Lionel's new 022 switches seem to be totally defective from day one.
Stay away from Lionel 027-42" switches. I have 8 of them on my "inside" layout that the grandkids use. They are fine as long as the train runs straight through them. The moment the switch is thrown (all 8 of them) the train shorts out and frustrates the grandkids to no end. I have cleaned them, realigned them, talked to Lionel and nothing stops the shorting. Like someone else said they are junk. I use Atlas, Ross and GarGraves on my main lines without any problem whatso ever.
John
Hedda wrote: Had no idea this was all so confusing!
Had no idea this was all so confusing!
Another way to phrase it would be "There are so many options!".
If you're already using 027 profile track and you're satisfied with it (except for some confusion over switches), then I'd stick with it, unless you really want to spend more on replacing it with O track, or spend alot more replacing it with any one of the several other "realistic" track types. I've got @ 400' of 027 track and @ 50 switches (a variety of 27", 34", and 42" from K-Line, Marx, and Lionel) for the hoped-for mega-sized layout sometime in the future - I have no intention of changing to something else as it works fine for my interests. And it's cheap, so if I foul up/cut up some sections or switches experimenting, it's no great loss. Switches tend to be the more "frustrating" part of any track system anyway, at least until you've got them all tweaked as needed and working smoothly. You'll find a "loser" or a bum switch in any make. 027 switches (of whatever size and make) are the cheapest to buy new or used, so if you try a couple different models to find one that works well for your needs, you really haven't lost much.
As far as the 1121 non-derail setup, you don't necessarily have to use a full length insulated track section as pictured in Bob's link, you can make your own with a half section (or less) if so inclined. The insulated control rails on factory made non-derail switches can be a few inches or less in length - one on a K-Line 27" switch is 1" in length.
Palallin, yes, the O42 Lionel turnouts are very similar to the O27 ones.
Hedda, the Lionel repair manual shows in detail how to wire 1121s for anti-derailing, if you want to go that way. I recommend the insulated-rail method:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=682
Ok....
So am I better off to drop the O27 plan and just go to O utilizing Lionel o-gauge switches?? Are they more dependale with off-track power option??
But one key is it can't be frustrating for the kids to use. Anything that can lead to de-railing is an obvious issue. (and I will need some help on making the 1121's non-derailing if I keep going that way)
The K-Line remote switches have become preferable for two reasons:
1) They can be powered separately from track power via a fixed voltage accessory post on the transformer (usually around 12 or 14 volts) - ensures that the switch will throw reliably regardless of how slow the train is going. Lionel switches are track powered only, although there is a method to convert them to fixed power if you're inclined to tackle the work (IMHO tedious and time consuming).
2) They are auto non-derailing - throw automatically in the proper direction if needed when they "sense" a train coming into the switch from the "wrong" side via an insulated rail section. Once thrown, the power is cut from the switch motor, so you won't risk burning it out by stopping a train on it with the power still up. Lionel Postwar 1122 switches (and newer 5121/5122 brown versions) are also non-derailing, but continue sending power to the switch motor as each wheelset crosses the insulated rail section - stopping a train on the switch and leaving the power up is not recommended for long switch life. 1122's also tend to lightly spark alot and buzz as trains cross them.
The 1121's you mentioned are not auto non-derailing, but can be made to by using a couple of insulated track sections and some extra wiring. You would have the same constant-power-to-switch-motor problem the 1122's have though.
The really preferred K-Line switches are the newer low profile style, which are the hardest ones to come by (now). Unfortunately, K-Line used the same model #'s for both the old (big honkin' switch cover) style and the new style. K-Line remote switch #'s are K-0275/K-0276 for 42" versions, and K-0265/K-0266 for 27" versions. Personally, I've had better operating luck with the new style ones over the older ones.
K-Line switches (mostly the older version) show up regularly on ebay, if you're so inclined to "shop" there. Search for "k-line switch*"and sift through the results (you'll get switch engines/diesels listed as well). There are a couple pair of 027 old style 42" ones listed now.
We are building a layout that is more interactive for the kids (8 &10) - Something more then having 1 train run the same route over and over - Basically... Ok - Train #1 is here - We need to get it over there to do this job - How do we get it there?? - Then we add in operating accessories (cattle and milk cars look cool) - Plus we add in extra trains - I finally get the GG1 I have always wanted!!!
The switch question was to make sure we get something that works so they are not frustrated!
I have been picking up 1121 O-27 switches here and there based on what I have read here - I hope they are decent!!!!
All help is appreciated!
Welcome!
K-Line went into bankruptcy a while back and were absorbed by Lionel. So you can look at Lionel's website and find products for both, but not all the original K-Line products have continued.
Lionel: http://www.lionel.com
K-Line by Lionel: http://www.kline.lionel.com
Or
You can look at other companies such as "GarGraves" and "Ross Custom Switches".
The height of the track that both these produce is the same height as O-27, but I don't know if the physcial length of the switches is the same. If they are longer, then they may not work within the dimensions shown on Thor Trains. That question on size is a good one to ask a dealer. They are good switches.
The drawback is that if you are using O-27 tubular track (the Lionel stuff with the brown ties) then the switches will look a little different
Gargraves: http://www.gargraves.com
Ross Custom Switches: http://www.rossswitches.com
You can purchase both Gargraves and Ross as some on-line dealers. One that I found with good prices is "AM Hobbies". They are very willing to talk on the phone and answer questions.
AM Hobbies: http://www.amhobbiesonline.com
Hope this helps.
Chris
I am in the process of expanding our vey basic 4X8 layout. I found something we like on Thor but I need 2 42" switches for O-27. In digging around a little I have read the K-Line models are really nice. Is this the case and if so how / where do I find them?? I would prefer automatic but just can't seem to locate them out there. Does anyone have a part #??
** Or are the Lionel models just fine???
This is all new to me and I am just trying to do it right the first time!
Thanks!
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month