chuck wrote: You can get sections of stuctural metal at real hardware stores. These places carry aluminum and steel in L and U shapes as well as "tubes" (traditional round as well as square). Nankin hardware in westland carries the stuff in 4 and 8 foot lengths. You can build up the deck with this material and "dress it" with pre-build bridges like the ones in your photo's or carve a stone/masonary bridge from foam and then finish it with texturized paint or plasitsruct sheet material. BTW, two of the bridges linked together should have a center pier. If you get real ambitious, you could kitbash the missing trusses in the center to make one long bridge.
You can get sections of stuctural metal at real hardware stores. These places carry aluminum and steel in L and U shapes as well as "tubes" (traditional round as well as square). Nankin hardware in westland carries the stuff in 4 and 8 foot lengths. You can build up the deck with this material and "dress it" with pre-build bridges like the ones in your photo's or carve a stone/masonary bridge from foam and then finish it with texturized paint or plasitsruct sheet material.
BTW, two of the bridges linked together should have a center pier. If you get real ambitious, you could kitbash the missing trusses in the center to make one long bridge.
Hello neighbor to the north! I'm in Toledo....I've been to Nankin it's a great store!
underworld
Buckeye Riveter wrote: I want you to make sure you understand that a bridge, as pictured in your photograph below, could not stand up in real life without that center pier.
I want you to make sure you understand that a bridge, as pictured in your photograph below, could not stand up in real life without that center pier.
Very true. I am planning on adding a center support. I just wanted to show the progress by using the steel supports alone so far. I need to experiment with the best way to support the middle. I need to work on building some steel supports that somewhat resemble the bridges themselves.
SK
The trusses would need to be connected at the top to work in this configuration, but then again it is a toy train and new GE Evolution Series Locomotives will not be heading across the bridge.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Thanks Roger. I will be sure to do that. There were several good ideas given to help support the middle should I need to. I really appreciate the level of concern and interest everyone on this forum shows towards thier fellow model railroaders.
Here are 2 quick pictures of the truss bridges with the steel supports running down each side.
The work continues. Thanks again for the help.
I stopped at my local hardware store on the way home from work today, and picked up 2 four foot lengths of 3/4" x 3/4" L shaped steel. I set them between the 2 end piers and then set the two bridges in the tray created. It spans the whole gap without any support in the middle and feels extremely solid. Thanks for all of the recommendations. I will post photos after I get it setup more permanently. Thanks again all.
sk3213 wrote: Buckeye,Both of your ideas are great, but as you mentioned it takes a real artist to make these. I just got into this 3 months ago. My model building skills are hovering somewhere between slim and non existent. Would you know of anywhere I could get some pointers on how to build a skewed truss bridge?Thanks,SK
Buckeye,
Both of your ideas are great, but as you mentioned it takes a real artist to make these. I just got into this 3 months ago. My model building skills are hovering somewhere between slim and non existent. Would you know of anywhere I could get some pointers on how to build a skewed truss bridge?
Thanks,
I think you misunderstood. It takes a real craftsman to build the real masonry bridge in the photo. Chuck's ideas are just about the same way I would approach your problem. In my local Home Depot I can buy the L and C sections he describes. I would buy a C section and cut the skewed ends to the correct length. Glue on some plastic angles for artistic affect and paint the thing flat black.
To be honest with you, you need to use one skewed plate girder bridge with the abutments parallel to the lower track.
Another method, is the skewed barrelled arch. These are either concrete or masonry.
It takes real craftmen to build these.
You could buy a longer bridge. Atlas and 100 year Bridge company are two choices that I can think of with reasonable prices.
Or, how about 'outriggers' and a crossmember similar to an elevated railway over a city street.
Dale
Bob Nelson
All the hardware stores carry sheet metal strip to connect wood joists and trusses together (sometimes called hurricane straps, earthquake straps or joist straps). I just used three on my layout where I needed to support one track right over another. In the picture below you can see the vertical portion (silver gray) attached to the thin wood. While these came flat, I made a 90 degrees vertical bend, went horizontal under the track and black base (out of view) and then bent 90 degree vertical again to attach to wood support on the other side (out of view). They come in various thicknesses but are all thin. If you have a vice (or plyers) to bend the ends you can attach to the rock piers...or just use a dremal to put slots in the piers...or glue the strip to the top.
You might want two side by side to approximate the width of the top of the pier.
I would think about trying to run that one track underneath, at more of a 90 degree angle to the bridge so you could get the piers under the bridge & next to the lower track. Or reroute altogether. Hope this helps !!
Thanks, John
I need to use 2 Lionel Truss Bridges with Flashers to go over my lower section of track. My problem is, where the 2 bridges meet in the center is right over the roadbed below. I cannot use the rock piers that came with the bridges since the track is running there. Here are some pictures to show the situation. I have the 2 extra rock piers, and1 section from the graduated trestle set in the picture to hold up the bridge until I can figure this out.
Any ideas how I can support the point where the bridges meet without jeopardizing the ability of trains to cross beneath the bridge?
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