To solder or not to Solder that is the question

[riverrailfan]

This how I did it. I found terminals at menards but they were not cost effective. 4 pairs for $6.99. But they were gold plated. I could not find terminals any where to fit fast track. So I soldered the wires to the tabs that hold the rails to the road bed. These are very accessible and not hidden like the lugs for the connectors. Just tin the tabs and wires before you solder.

 

[Dave45681]

Our Lowes in Wake Forest has them. 

 I stand corrected.  I guess it may be a regional thing.  I will have to re-check my local stores now.  A year ago, they did not have them either in Philly area or on Long Island.

  

For anyone who has found these at HD or Lowes, are they in the regular electrical supply aisle, or perhaps somewhere else?  

 I happened to be in Lowes today and took another look.  In the aisle that has toggle switches, wire ties, wire caps, electrical tape, etc, the ONLY size of this connector they had was .250" (for several wire sizes).

 Curious if anyone other than  ChiefEagles has seen them in a Lowes.

 Thanks.

[Dave Farquhar]

You can always compensate for the higher resistance from a mechanical connection by making a few extra connections. With the time you save by not soldering, you still come out ahead (at least if your soldering skills are comparable to mine!)

[A&Y Ry]

I solder every feeder wire conection to rail flanges as well as spade lugs to wire ends for connection to screws on terminal strips, etc, then never have to worry about it again. Low voltage power supplies and distribution love "infinity".

But to each his own!

[jimhaleyscomet]

I rarely solder anything and do not suffer from loose connections.   I often find I can crimp something and get a good enough connections.  

Jim H 

[lionelsoni]

I believe that the Radio Shack part is a larger size, although you can probably make it work.

[3railguy]

I found some at an auto parts store. Soldering is in most cases is better than a mechanical joint as it has the least resistance (which is practically imeasureable here). But in this case you are working around plastic and can easily distort it. Like the chief suggests, quick connectors make maintenance easier. Plus, if you get your wires crossed up, it's easier to switch them around. If you ever want to sell your Fastrack on ebay, don't expect a bid war if it has icky solder blobs on it.

[Anonymous]

I am pretty sure I will be using quick connectors for this first layout.  I really appreciate the comments by everyone.  It is great that everyone is willing to take the time to go out and find links to items, and provide first hand experiences all in the name of the common good.  Thanks again.

SK

[envfocus]

Here is a link to the radio shack website for the part described by Lisa-n-NC...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104019&cp

[jefelectric]

Also a lot of the autoparts stores will have them in the electrical section.

On the internet, All electronics and Mouser will have them.

[Dave45681]

Our Lowes in Wake Forest has them. 

 

I stand corrected.  I guess it may be a regional thing.  I will have to re-check my local stores now.  A year ago, they did not have them either in Philly area or on Long Island.

 

 

[ChiefEagles]

Our Lowes in Wake Forest has them.  Use them and solder only if you have too.  I've soldered some Realtrax but mainly used lighted lockons.  I you solder and have to do some changing around, you might find it easier the way you are doing it.  Welcome and keep on visiting. 

[Dave45681]

SK,

       Check the electrical section of Lowes or Home Depot.  They should have the connectors you need. 

 

Unless they have expanded their inventory, this is not the answer.  I tried both about a year ago when I first bought some FT, and the smallest they had was I think 1/4".  

It would be great if they did stock them though!

  

 

[Anonymous]

SK - am in the process of doing the same thing.  The Radio Shack I went to here in NC had some. I took a piece of track with me to be sure they fit.  The part No. is 64-3134.  Size is 0.187.  These are Insulated-crimp Quick Disconnects.  There are 16 (8 male/8 female) so I can only use 1/2 of each bag unless I solder them.  These are for 16-14 ga wire (I'm using 14ga).  They also had the same size for 18-20 ga. 

Like you, I'm not that good at soldering but there is a thread in the "How To" index that may help with that. 

Just went back and looked at the thread referenced above - they have the same info and much more. 

I see you are new here, like me. Welcome to the forum.  Great bunch of people here.  They welcome your questions, give great advice, have a great sense of humor, and they don't make fun of newbies - even a female!!

Lisa

[Anonymous]

SK,

       Check the electrical section of Lowes or Home Depot.  They should have the connectors you need. 

[lionelsoni]

Here is a recent topic on the subject:

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/995650/ShowPost.aspx

 

[Anonymous]

Hi All,

I am working on my first permanent layout using Lionel FasTrack.  I am getting closer and closer to the wiring stage of construction and had a question.  Is it better to solder the power wires to the sections of FasTrack or use quick connectors like the ones found on the end of the FasTrack Accessort Power Wire? 

I assume that most people are going to say solder, but my soldering skills are at best non-existent.  I have visions of melting the metal tabs as well as the plastic of the roadbed in a massive soldering accident.

I stopped at my local Radio Shack today, and they do not carry any female quick connectors that are even close to small enough to fit on the tabs under the roadbed.  If I deceide to go with quick connectors over soldering, are there any stores online that would sell the 18-Gauge quick connectors recommended in The Lionel FasTrack Book?

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

SK