Hello All:
Finally!!! I now have my layout hard wired.
I have utilized the recommended star wiring procedure utilizing one of the TIU's outputs for the outer loop and another output for the inner loop.
I have mounted the TIU and AIU underneath my layout to keep it out of the way:
I am not happy with my Atlas turnouts. When a loco passes over the turnout, the current stops flowing and the engine stalls. I had to place power leads on all three sides of the turnout. The extra work was not appreciated.
My next job is to create a small table with casters. The table will have the transformer(s) and the switches for the turnouts/accessories/uncoupling tracks. When not in use, the table will roll underneath the layout.
I will post pictures when I have finished the little table.
Regards,
John O
Regards, Roy
Looking VERY nice. You know how to do neat work (a skill I am missing).
Jim H
Nice work!
underworld
Can you share some info on that framework?
Wes
Hello Wes:
The framework was accidental. Shortly after purchasing a ready to run set last year, my wife purchased a new picture to be hung over our fireplace. The picture came in a big "crate." I initial built the table by bolting four 2x4's crate sides and voila, I had a table. I did add levelers to the bottom of the 2x4's and those were immediately useful in creating a semi level layout surface. Almost immediately, I realized that table was too small (about 4.5' x 6'). At that point, I should have scrapped the table and built a new one. But, I was unable to ignore the sunk cost of my time. So, I took the other flat side of the crate, purchased some 1x3s and made an identical table to the first. I then bolted the two tables together. After some feedback from some forum members, I then added the diagonal braces. I am pleasantly surprised at how sturdy the table is. Since the layout surface is no thicker than pegboard, I decided to add 2" foam to the top of the table.
To finish it up, I took some left over trim and attached it to the outside of the table. This process was eye opening as I discovered how tough it is to try to miter the ends of the trim on a table that wasn't really square. That was the moment I realized I should have just built the benchwork from scratch.
When finished, a skirt will be attached to the trim pieces. This will hide the holes I needed to drill into the trim when they were attached to the table. Since I will be using the underneath of the table for storage, the skirt will also keep the layout appearance neat.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
John,
Do you have any problem with the DCS system getting proper signal with it mounted that way?
I have my DCS mounted about two inches above track level in the corner of the room and the AIU mounted a few inches under it.
Didn't know that Atlas switches have the same problem that GarGraves switches used to have, GarGraves has since fixed that problem, but power to the outside rails on GarGraves is on one side only.
Good job on the layout so far, remember it may take a few months to complete a layout.
Lee F.
John : that has really turned out nice !! You do nice work !! You should have a lot of fun with that layout !! Looking forward to more progress pictures !!
Thanks, John
Hello Lee:
I plan on adding the "magic" light bulbs to the terminals and I still need to remove the black off the top of the middle rails. However, without doing those things, I am still getting readings of 9s and 10s everywhere on the track. I suspect, given the size of my layout, I went a little over the top with the wiring. But I have not had any adverse effect from mounting the TIU under the layout.
Are you using Gargraves track, John ? If so, not necessery to remove the black from the middle rail. Some people do, so that's up to you !!
Hello John:
I am using Atlas track. It was recommended that I remove the black is it may interfere with the DCS signal. Since I am getting such a strong signal, I may not follow through with that project. But in the meantime, I will monitor the signal strength. In any even I am going to add the "magic bulbs" just to be safe. Even though I am using a new transformer, I am also adding fuses. Both items have been ordered from Scott's Odd 'n Ends.
I am using GarGraves stainless steel track with black center rail and GarGraves 042 switches and have no problems with the signal to my PS2 engine. Have not removed the black from the center rails and don't plan on it. I guess just keeping the connections tight at the track pins helps a lot. Have 12 gauge wires feeding power to the track with 16 gauge wire to the track from under the table about 9 inches, my choice would have been 14 gauge wire but when you have five spools (500 feet each)of 12 gauge laying around you use it. Also using a Z1000 with my DCS system and the breaker really goes quick when there is a short!
I am with you! I got a good deal on two spools of 14 AWG solid copper and I will use it wherever I can.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month