Construction question

[yallaen]

So, I'm at the point where I got a hole in the drywall, and I need to start my turn-around loop in the back room. I was going to just take a 4x4 section, and use the cheap gray hanger brackets along the sides on both walls (it's about 4 feet across). Perhaps considering using 1x1's underneath for cross bracing and stiffening the middle section that's floating in the air.

So, I have concrete walls in the basement area. I tried using my 18v cordless drill to drill a hole in the concrete with a concrete bit. It took several minutes to get about 1/2" penetration :( Then I'd have to get those Tapcon screws to secure into the concrete.

Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting one of those .22 caliber hammer things...you load in a special nail, a .22 cal blank round, line it up with the board/wall, and whack it with a hammer. The .22 goes off, and sends the nail thru the board and into the concrete. The special hammer tool is like 20 dollars, plus the costs of the special nails and .22 rounds.

 Anyone have similar problems? Ideas?

 

[kpolak]

You want a hammer drill...and a carbide tipped masonry bit.  Usually the tapcons tell you what size bit you need, and come with an inexpensive bit.  Go slow, and let the drill do the work.  Forcing will dull the bit, and you'll have to buy another...probably a good idea to get one as a spare just in case.

You may be able to borrow a hammer drill from a neighbor, or they are available at rental centers, some have bits included, some do not.

Kurt

[dwiemer]

Sounds like the bit on the drill needs to be replaced.  You should be able to drill the hole with a good bit and good battery.  You should also not need to mount to the concrete.  If you can brace to the wall, and since this will not need to support a whole lot of weight, you can build a frame with some 2 x 4s and be fine.

dennis

[thor]

 

Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting one of those .22 caliber hammer things...you load in a special nail, a .22 cal blank round, line it up with the board/wall, and whack it with a hammer. The .22 goes off, and sends the nail thru the board and into the concrete. The special hammer tool is like 20 dollars, plus the costs of the special nails and .22 rounds.

 Anyone have similar problems? Ideas?

 

Be careful with those things! After my last experience I won't use one again. A better tool is the pneumatic variety that holds special nails in a magazine, you have more control, much better device IMHO.

Frankly we were lucky someone wasnt killed or badly injured using the tool you describe, we had ricochets, nails going right through stuff and continuing at speed, horrible device.

 

[mcattardo]

If you go with a powder actuated tool. Matching the power of the round & length of the nail to both the wood & concrete is extremely important. Eye & hearing protection goes without saying.

I haven't used one you hit with a hammer. I prefer to hold it tightly with both hands & shoot straight. 

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Use a hammer drill as mentioned above and go slow.  Let the tool do the work.  Buy good bits, if you've got a lot of holes to drill it saves you money.  Wear eye protection too!

Jim

[jwse30]

Powder actuated devices should never be used to secure metal to anything. The possibilty of ricocheting is too great.  If you must go this route, attach firring strips to the wall with the gun and then attach your metal hangers to the strips.

Before I'd buy the gun, I'd buy a new masonry bit (the proper size for your tapcons), and try again at a different spot. You may have just hit a real hard piece of aggregate, or possible even some metal (rerod or mesh). If you have a regular corded drill, you may want to try that instead of your cordless. 18v is good, but I've yet to see a cordless tool that can compete with its corded counterpart.

Of course, one wall is obviously studs, so attaching your hangers to that one should be easy. If the ceiling isn't finished, perhaps support the other end with lightweight chain or aircraft cable, and forget about drilling or shooting the concrete altogether. with this method, you may be able to make the tabletop fold up to the wall when not in use as well. Just an idea.

Hope some of this helps,

J White

 

[Anonymous]

So, I'm at the point where I got a hole in the drywall, and I need to start my turn-around loop in the back room. I was going to just take a 4x4 section, and use the cheap gray hanger brackets along the sides on both walls (it's about 4 feet across). Perhaps considering using 1x1's underneath for cross bracing and stiffening the middle section that's floating in the air.

So, I have concrete walls in the basement area. I tried using my 18v cordless drill to drill a hole in the concrete with a concrete bit. It took several minutes to get about 1/2" penetration :( Then I'd have to get those Tapcon screws to secure into the concrete.

Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting one of those .22 caliber hammer things...you load in a special nail, a .22 cal blank round, line it up with the board/wall, and whack it with a hammer. The .22 goes off, and sends the nail thru the board and into the concrete. The special hammer tool is like 20 dollars, plus the costs of the special nails and .22 rounds.

 Anyone have similar problems? Ideas?

 

Yallaen,
Why mount the frame to the wall?  That is a load of unnecessary work... just put a leg at each corner with leveling screws, then put a 4x4 post in the middle with a leveling screw... that should be more than enough support!  And you won't damage your foundation walls and risk springing a leak!

[Wes Whitmore]

I don't recommend .22ca nails in the block wall.  Those are dangerous, and are really made to only hold studs in place.  Over time, the block will give out around the nail, and your shelf will sag or fall.  I would liquid nail a board to the wall, then attach your shelf to that.  If I were using liquid nails, I would probably just tack a few .22ca nails in there while it dries, or a couple of tapcons.  You can drill them with a new bit and a fresh battery on your regular drill.  A hammer drill will just be faster.

Wes

[dbaker48]

So, I'm at the point where I got a hole in the drywall, and I need to start my turn-around loop in the back room. I was going to just take a 4x4 section, and use the cheap gray hanger brackets along the sides on both walls (it's about 4 feet across). Perhaps considering using 1x1's underneath for cross bracing and stiffening the middle section that's floating in the air.

So, I have concrete walls in the basement area. I tried using my 18v cordless drill to drill a hole in the concrete with a concrete bit. It took several minutes to get about 1/2" penetration :( Then I'd have to get those Tapcon screws to secure into the concrete.

Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting one of those .22 caliber hammer things...you load in a special nail, a .22 cal blank round, line it up with the board/wall, and whack it with a hammer. The .22 goes off, and sends the nail thru the board and into the concrete. The special hammer tool is like 20 dollars, plus the costs of the special nails and .22 rounds.

 Anyone have similar problems? Ideas?

 

Yallaen,
Why mount the frame to the wall?  That is a load of unnecessary work... just put a leg at each corner with leveling screws, then put a 4x4 post in the middle with a leveling screw... that should be more than enough support!  And you won't damage your foundation walls and risk springing a leak!

 

That's the approach I would take.  I have used the .22cal nails with the $20 hammer gun.  Was relatively successful. The tricks I found is getting the correct "load" size with the material you are penetrating.  Also, using sharp, sifnificant blows, no tapping that results in a surprise.  Most recently I had to run a ground wire around a concrete slab, and along a block wall.  Secured adel clamps with the nail gun including a washer between the nail head and clamp.  Did fine, even in some really awkward locations.  Keep the tool straight, and sharp blows, with the correct load.