I have a bit of Gargraves track and found that you can go down a size on the drill bit for the screw hole, I use a 7/64 inch drill bit instead of the 1/8 inch that Gargraves mentions as it will not split the wood ties as easy, and the Gargraves screws will fit in snug. When mounting the track I drill a small pilot hole first about a 1/16 inch with the first drill then use a second drill to mount the screws in the holes with a philips bit on the end, saves a lot of wear on your hands.
I run power to about every third track section, and use the Gargraves power clips. For insulating pins I use S gauge pins that I have cut down a little, some places must have an insulated pin and Gargraves insulated pins are most difficult to find. Using Gargraves track pins and a pair of needle nose pliers to put in track pins and push track together for a tight fit.
If you cut Gargraves track to size you will need a small file to get rid of the burs that remain after cutting.
Lee F.
Here is a couple answers to your questions.
1. I just converted my mail lines from MTH Real Trax to Gargraves with Ross Switches. I used the Flex track for the straights and for most my curves.
2. I just used the blade looking pins to connect the track to each other. There is a pin to mate the track with tubular track. I use these pins on my modules when hooking up for the other modules with one of my modular clubs.
3. I used about 3 -4 screws per straight track to secure it to my homosote.
4. Yes both the outer rails are insulated from each other.
5. I did solder all my wires to the track. I did it out of habit from wiring my modules I created for the modular clubs
Chris
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GregM wrote: I used Gargraves track on my previous layout but did not solder one wire to the track, It isn't necessary to use the solderless connectors either. When you look at the end of piece of Gargraves track that does not have connector pins you will see two openings in the track above the ties. Obviously the top hole is for the connector pins from the next section of track. You can use the bottom hole to make your electrical connections. Remove about 2 inches of insulation from either 16 or 18 gauge multistrand wire. Tin the entire exposed wire with solder. Be careful to not have any blobs of solder on the wire. Then bend the soldered wire slightly back and forth so that the wire fits snug when inserted in the lower hole. I connected these feeder wires to larger supply lines under the layout. I put feeder wires every other connection when using full length sections. When shorter sections of track were used I tried to never have more than two connections between feeder wires. Never experienced problems with track power because of bad solder connections.Great thing about this method is if changes are made in the track plan, no wires need to be unsoldered from the track.
I used Gargraves track on my previous layout but did not solder one wire to the track, It isn't necessary to use the solderless connectors either. When you look at the end of piece of Gargraves track that does not have connector pins you will see two openings in the track above the ties. Obviously the top hole is for the connector pins from the next section of track. You can use the bottom hole to make your electrical connections.
Remove about 2 inches of insulation from either 16 or 18 gauge multistrand wire. Tin the entire exposed wire with solder. Be careful to not have any blobs of solder on the wire. Then bend the soldered wire slightly back and forth so that the wire fits snug when inserted in the lower hole. I connected these feeder wires to larger supply lines under the layout. I put feeder wires every other connection when using full length sections. When shorter sections of track were used I tried to never have more than two connections between feeder wires. Never experienced problems with track power because of bad solder connections.
Great thing about this method is if changes are made in the track plan, no wires need to be unsoldered from the track.
Excellent idea!
underworld
I've used regular brass male quick connectors for power to the rails. The spade fits very snug in the gap on the underside of the rail. The advantage is that these are quite inexpensive and you can get them at any building supply/hardware/or electric, electronic supply store.
Thanks everyone,
I ponied up the money and ordered all Gargrave. I'll add my switches and stuff later, right now I would just like to get a single line running around the wall. I ordered some of the 3/4" screws as well (the gargrave black #4 ones) as I doubt my hardware store will have black. I didn't know what the tie thickness was, so I wasn't real sure, but I'm guessing they will work.
I'm going to predrill the holes for screws every so often in the garage before getting on the ladder to mount the track sections.
That's a great idea to use a straightedge, I also have several, but a level will probably work very nicely.
Jason
The solderless connector just sticks up into the bottom of the rail. I has to fuss a bit to get them in but once installed they are pretty durable. I have kept the screws through the ties to a minimum and with what you are describing I bet you can too. After all once the track is in place very little is going to disturb it. I'd try every couple of sections or so. You can always grab the ladder and install a few more. The flex straight sections are very straight to begin with so they'll meet that need.
Jim
I like GarGraves all the way around. Great for custom curves and straights. Definately the cheapest option that I've found other than finding some used sectional track for super cheap. My trains are pre war gauge 1 (1.75 inch) 3-rail, so I don't have a lot of options for new track.
I installed GarGraves on my airborne 5-track shelf layout in '92 [now coming down]because of custom curve arcs. No problem with installing straight track. I have metal straight edges that I place against the tie ends to keep it straight while installing---12",36", 60", 4' and 8' long rulers and edges. You can use other straight items to align, it doesn't have to be rulers.
I soldered all of my track feeders [a common on each outside rail] but my legs got mighty tired standing on that ladder. Solderless will work if installed properly. On my regular benchwork layout i soldered a feeder to every 37" section of GarGraves but on the high shelf soldered every other section.
Connecting the common to each outside rail is not essential---I did it originally when Lionel suggested it for TMCC. The center rail is the only power or hot rail.
The blades are for when you install the last section of track---at a joint there is no room to insert the section with regular pins. The blades slide up into the bottom rail slot--you simply press down on the rails or tap lightly with a hammer on a block of wood to install the blades.
I install a screw two ties back at each joint and on alternate sides of the center rail about every 9 or 10 ties. On my regular benchwork layout I remove the screws after ballasting but on the high shelf layout I did not ballast.
I just finished building a large layout with Gargraves track.The flex track works well as long straight sections.The adapter pins are to use Lionel "o" guage track or accessories.Make sure you put the regular pins in correctly.Just look at them and it is easy to figure out.I advise you to get a small pair of vise grips and mount a pin in them halfway.The pins are very tight and sometimes bend.It you use the pin in the vise grips first, assembling is much easier.The only thing I didn"t like was there are no insulated pins.I cut the tracks and used super glue to fill in the gaps.Try not to insulalate on curves as this could cause alignment problems.I did do this a couple of time but wish I didn't.We drilled holes about every six inches and alternated ties when screwing the track down.We used #4 pan head screws which will split the ties if not pilot drilled.I like the uncoupler sectios as the magnets are bigger and a little easier to spot cars on.You can see the track plan and layout at http://community.webshots.com/user/otftch and look for the album "Alans Layout".
Ed
I'm seriously considering going with the Gargraves track for my wall mounted up high rail, though you can't see it and it's more expensive. I'm going to need some flex track anyway. Here are my questions (all about Gargraves phantom 3 rail):
1. Are there any problems with using the flex track for the straight runs. This may seem like an odd question, but the flex track is cheaper, by like 40% over ridgid straight track. And if I move, I can take the track with me and it will allow easier reconfiguration (at least that's my thought)
2. As for track connectors, I see they have standard pins and these blade type pins. What's the blade pins for exactly, it says something about adding to an existing layout.
3. How often do I need to screw the track to keep it straight? I was hoping to get by without a lot of screws.
4. I assume the Gargraves two outside rails are isolated from the factory as they have wood ties, as opposed to the standard Lionel 027 track.
5. Track connections, I see you can solder it, or you can buy their solderless connections. I really like the solderless idea for what I'm doing, as you can't see it anyway, but are their any pros/cons? (I feel comfortable with soldering, just don't want to in this case). Also, if you need power to both rails, do you need two solderless connectors, and are they long enough to reach to one side of the track??
Thanks
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