Roxxy,
Brasseur's has the parts you need. Here is the info for the brush plate:
You will need a pair of brushes:
You will also need a pair of brush springs:
The springs need to be soldered to the brushplate, but it is very easy to do. The brushplate Brasseur's has is better than an original because there is a metal bushing for the armature shaft. They also have the parts to rebuild the E unit, however the deal you mention is a good deal. I would suggest not running your 675 until you replace the brushplate, otherwise damage to the armature pinion and cluster gear will occur. Here is a link to Brasseur's site:
http://www.traindoctor.com/service/lionel/120to250.asp
I would suggest to call them if you are going to order. Ask for Dean or Justin. They will explain how the springs need to be soldered. If you need help, feel free to post here, or you can email me.
Jim,
I did as you told me and the motor ran without the e unit. I removed it and inspected it and it does seem to be simply "CHEWED UP!" I have been looking on eBay for one, the only one so for was for an asking price of $24.99 and $10.00 shipping. I was wondering if that is a fair price or should I wait abit. Also about the brush plate, there is just a slight "play" in the armature. However, if the motor is not "OVER OILED" it makes a very loud grind, so I guess I am looking to replace that also.
I would like to thank everyone that responded to my post and let you all know that I will be posting alot here in the future!
-Roxxy
I looked at the picture, and the wire from the field is on the lug, just as it should be. Nothing else should be connected to the lug. To test the motor, make the following connections:
1. Disconnect the E unit from the brushplate, and the wire from the E unit to the field.
2. Connect one wire from the transformer to either brush (either one will do).
3. Connect the othe wire from the transformer to the frame of the motor.
4. Connect the remaining brush to the end of the field that was originally connected to the E unit.
It is important that the end of the field that is soldered to the lug is not disturbed. If the wire breaks off, the motor is ruined. To make the motor run in the opposite direction, just reverse the wires connected to the brushes.
Do not apply voltage directly to the brushes. (Unless you left the voltage on the brushes for a long time, you probably didn't damage the motor.)
You are dealing with a series-wound universal motor, which has a field winding that should be in series with the armature. The parts of the motor are wired in this order: from pickup through e-unit contacts to brush through armature to other brush through other e-unit contacts through field winding to frame. The e-unit contacts simply swap the connections to the brushes to reverse the motor. To test it without the e-unit, the proper wiring is: from pickup to brush through armature to other brush through field winding to frame.
Bob Nelson
So are you telling me that nothing should be attached to where I drew the red arrow?
I did see the connection you described comming from the eunit.
Even though I applied power direct to the brushes, and the e-unit has a problem would it cause the symptoms I have described?
The lug on top of the motor is the ground connection for the motor circuit. There should only be one wire from the field soldered to this lug. The other end of the field is on top of the coil form( close to the E unit). A wire goes from this end of the field to the E unit. As for the binding, try wiggling the armature shaft where it comes thru the brushplate. If the shaft wiggles, you will need a new brushplate. Keep us posted.
Wow! Great page Thanks so much for the link! I am willing to take anymore help on the train! You guys are GREAT!
Roxxy, to the board!Try Olsen's to see if they have the diagrams you need:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd2a.htm
Scroll down the 675, they have different offerings for the 49-51 version and the 52 version.
Here are a few photos of what I am against. I hope I can repair this loco....
Thanks for your time and your help! I will be posting here alot, about train parts and repairs!
the two wire you see not connected are for the front light and the smoke unit (Wich I plan to leave dis-connected).
Mike, I had thought of that, but the fact that the wheels "locked" is what leads me to believe that it is either the rods, or something that has caused a mechanical obstruction. He may very well have two or more problems. I am somewhat concerned that the wire was off the field. Please make sure that it does not look like it melted off.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Roxxy:
I have a 675 and have worked on a number of Lionel post-war steam engines and just finished restoring a 685. There are a couple of well-known problems that could cause the symptoms that you have described.
(1) When you took the engine apart and cleaned it, did you clean the armature face on the motor and replace the brushes? This is most often the cause of these problems - especially if the motor did not respond when you bypassed the "E-Unit."
(2) The E-Unit that controls direction is a form of mechanical relay that uses a rotating drum to direct current to the motor, and the E-Unit mechanism may be clogged or just so dirty that the "fingers" on the drum may not be making electrical contact. Most repair books recommend spraying the E-Unit using TV tuner cleaner. You might also want to check the lever on the top of the engine that "locks" the E-Unit to make sure that it's in the proper position (and making electrical contact).
Getting the repair manual is a great idea. You might also want to check Lionel's web-site to see if there is any information available.
Let us know how it goes.
Mike
That very well may be. Do you see a wire free? Do you have a diagram of the 675? If not, I will check mine and get back to you. When I posted the idea about the drive rods, I guess I jumped a few things. When you have the boiler off, check for anything obvious, such as the wire for the field.
I am trying to get the motor to work without and driverods on it. I was doing some reading about AC motors and they say something about a field coil. Well this is one solder place on the top side of the motor that has no wire going to it, is this my problem?
Welcome to the forum. The first thing that comes to mind.... were the side rods removed that you know of? It sounds like you may need to work with them as they may be binding. Don't keep power on the engine if they won't turn. Take a look and see if they have any obvious problems, bent, just not in sinc. If not, make a note of wheel position and rod placement. Then you can remove them, and test the engine without the rods on. If the engine runs, then you need to replace the rods, making sure they are straight and in proper order.
This all goes on the assumption that the rest of the engine is OK and that you checked the motor and gears that they are properly lubed. Also, don't do this right away, while my opinion is that it may be the rods, I would wait to see if any of the more knowledgeable guys on this forum may have other ideas to try first.
One thing I would recommend you getting is the guide to repairing Lionel Trains 1945-1969. This will help you with all of your post war trains. It gives a good discription and break down of parts, etc.
One more thing, if you put your area you live in with your forum ID, some folks may be able to either help you directly, or give you a place to go to.
Regards,
Hi everyone! I have been a on again and off again Lionel collector for sometime, but now I have decided to stay! I just traded for a Lionel 675 steam engine and wistle tender. I am have problems with the engine. I have taken it apart and cleaned and oiled all parts but still cant get the thing to run. I have tried bypassing the e-unit and applying power straight to the brushes but all i get is a humm and the wheels will lock. Any ideas will help!
thanks!
Roxxy
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