Bob Nelson~Track Blocks

[lionelsoni]

Not the sort of phase-control dimmer you're thinking of.  The only rheostat that Radio Shack lists (271-265) is way too puny at 25 ohms, 3 watts.  You need something around 5 ohms, 100 watts minimum.  If you can't get that, you might be better off with the diodes.  The Radio Shack 276-1181 at 6 amperes, 200 volts, $2.59 each, would be suitable.

[Fred Bear]

Would any kind of rheostat work? Surely radio shack should have something, or even a dimmer switch for lights? Thanks, Jerry

[lionelsoni]

It's a problem with any kind of track.

You can solve it by powering all the blocks involved from the same transformer output, but with some sort of passive voltage-dropping element in series with the center rail of the blocks where you want to go more slowly.  This element can be a rheostat, like Lionel used to sell and which are available for a few bucks at train shows and on Ebay.  It can also be a string of back-to-back diodes, perhaps built up from bridge-rectifier modules.  The latter have the advantage of not varying the voltage according to the train load, but are harder to adjust.

Another way to solve it is by switching the power for the whole track among different voltages with relays connected to control rails.  For example, a control rail (an insulated outside rail) on an upgrade could operate a relay to switch the center rail of the entire track to another transformer output set to a higher voltage.

[Fred Bear]

A short time ago, I posted about accelerated power up slopes and a cut on power coming down grades. I  think Bob Nelson stated it was a bad idea coming from one insulated block to the next, if I understood him correctly. If using Atlas track, is there still a problem? And how again is that problem solved? Thanks, Jake