Atlas Track

[Fred Bear]

How many folks here are fans of Atlas track? Just tried it, now converting my entire layout to Atlas, what nice track it seems to be. Any boogers with it? Jake

[luther_stanton]

Jake,

I have been using Atlas track for over a year with great results.  I have easily tied in some Lionel tubular track on some of my sidings were I have accessories.  I think some of the accessories just look better with tubular track.  I am running in a TMCC environment and powering most of my Atlas switches through SC-2s.  Everything worked the first time and I have had no troubles.

Two potential "gotchas" are with the switches.  First, some locos, especially those with short pickup spacings, can lose power over the longer turnouts like the #5 and #7.5.  I have replaced my two orginal turnouts with 0-72 switches which solved the problem.  The second potential problem with switches happened when I had an inadvertent short on a yard track due to a derailment.  I believe the small wires that connect the center rails together beneath the switch burned up in the short.  This happened before the circuit breakers tripped.  I always run power leads to the center rail on all three branches to minimize the effects of something like this happening.

I have also found Atlas customer service to be outstanding.  Anytime I have had a question, the email was answered within 48 hours and most often replacement parts have been sent out at no charge.  I can not say enough about their customer service.

 - Luther

[chuck]

Rail joiners.  Make sure you use the new ones with the "dimples".  There are issues with some of the switches, you may want to consider using Ross swicthes and getting adapter pins to mate with the Atlas track.

[luther_stanton]

Another consideration is that since the rails are nickel and not steel - MagnaTraction has no effect.  I have a 3.5% grade on a curve and my magnatraction locos really feel it - especially when the rails are in need of cleaning.

- Luther 

[Fred Bear]

So the Atlas switches do not like to work properly? The Lionel Shay I have I'm selling in favor of an MTH Shay. It's new in the box, but I'd rather have the MTH I believe. I think the grade I have is 7.5 according to the math we all did on here last posting, ( 9 inch rise over 110 inches) the Lionel pulls it and 10 Lionel log cars with logs easily. I'm hoping the MTH will do the same. The MTH has traction wheels as well. Jake

[willpick]

There have been problems in the past, especially with the first year or two of production. The wires that connect the center rails have been beefed up,  the switch machines are screwed into the ties(used to clip in,then slide loose after a bit). If I was starting over, I would have no qualms about using them. Some of us have used Ross Switches instead of the Atlas ones, as their quality is unsurpassed(and you pay for that quality). HTH!

[chuck]

There is not as large a selection of switches from Atlas as there is from Ross.  The Ross switches tend to have fewer problems than Atlas, not that Atlas has a lot of problems.  If you want to rate switches, the Ross/Curtis units are tops, drop down one level to Atlas and then drop way down to everyone else.

[Fred Bear]

I'll try the Atlas first and see what I can do with them. Our local train store is pretty darn good about stuff so I'll give it a try.

             Nuther question: Should I solder & file all joints? If a person ever wants to take them apart once soldered, is it about impossible? Thanks, Jake 

 

[luther_stanton]

I originally soldered all the connections on my mainlines.  It was a lot of work.  And when I replaced the #5 turnouts with 072 switches, I regretted it.  If you are absolutely certain that you will never change the track, I think soldering is OK. After these lessons, I have not soldered any sidings or yard tracks - only "most" of my main line is solder.  I have had no electrical issues, but....

 I honestly do not think it was necessary, but my layout is relatively small. - maybe 50 feet of track total. It certainly will not hurt anything.  A s I said it created a lot of work to get it in in the first place, and a lot of extra work to get specific pieces of track out.  I ran frequent power feeds - every 6 - 8 feet.  If I had to do it over again - I would not solder - just my opinion.

Regarding the switches - as some have correctly advised, Atlas originally had issues with their switch quality.  However, they have taken steps to address the issues and I believe they have succeeded.

Something else to consider, I do not advise placing uncoupling track sections (the little 1.75" guys) right before or right after any switch.  This configuration caused my Lionel Geeps and F3s to stall.  This is not saying that Atlas is bad or their track is messed up, etc. - it is just a particular geometry with the Atlas switches and uncoupling sections and their respective center rail isolations that caused dead spots for the particular roller spacings!

- Luther 

[willpick]

Personally, i don't think it's necessary to solder the joints. The joiners should be VERY tight when new, and as long as you don't pull them apart often, they will stay that way.

[Fred Bear]

Thanks much, I apprciate the replies. Jake

[chuck]

I don't beleive there has ever been an issue with the Atlas switches re mechanical problems.  The problems were more electrical in nature and had to do with what was isolated and how it was done.  Third rail problems would either result in stalls or shorts.  I'm not found of their switch motors but others like them (I prefer the Z Stuff units), to each his own.

[Anonymous]

Atlas is most definitely my O gauge track of choice. I like the appearance of the track, the variety of components offered, the ready availability of the products, and the reasonable cost (in my opinion).  I have used Atlas track and switches dating back to when they were first introduced, and to date have not had any problems with that system--no conductivity problems and no switch problems (although I operate short-wheelbase motive power, for the most part, and have the tighter-radius switches).

[jefelectric]

Jake, You will not be disapointed with Atlas track and switches, but do make sure you get new stock on the switches, with the heavy wire.

[Fred Bear]

Thanks all, I appreciate the help, Jake

[lionelsoni]

I solder all my (O27, tubular) track; but I take the pins out first.  This makes it easier to change track rather than harder, since I don't have to rip up a lot of track just to get the pins disengaged.  In fact, that's why I started doing it.

[jwse30]

I solder all my (O27, tubular) track; but I take the pins out first.  This makes it easier to change track rather than harder, since I don't have to rip up a lot of track just to get the pins disengaged.  In fact, that's why I started doing it.

Thank you for that little tidbit there. Once I start my next layout, I plan on using that idea. I don't think I'll do every joint though, perhaps at every curve or something.  

I never would have thought  that I would get a layout idea from reading a post that really has nothing to do with my ideas for my next layout. (I am most definately a toy train operator)

Thanks again,

J White

 

[Fred Bear]

Bob, how tough is it to disengage the track if they are soldered? Just add heat and a bit of pull? Would that do it? Thanks, Jake

[chuck]

Bob, how tough is it to disengage the track if they are soldered? Just add heat and a bit of pull? Would that do it? Thanks, Jake

You can get solder suckers at RS or other electronic supply places and possibly at Home Depot/Lowes.  These are spring loaded plunger devices that allow you so suck up melted solder.  There is also braided copper that works pretty well at whicking up molten solder, especially if the braid is cleaned with some flux before touching it to the solder you want to remove. 

[lionelsoni]

I have a 40-year old solder sucker that I use when I need to; but usually heating and pulling does the job.

I find that the soldered joints are most useful on the straight track, not the curves.  You can usually disconnect the pins at a curve by moving the track sideways, whereas on the straights you have to remove track until you come to a curve.  I use long straight sections (K-Line 36-inch); so there are not really all that many joints to solder.

[luther_stanton]

Good point, Bob.  My comments about soldering and the challenge of tearing up track were definitely based on soldering with the rail joiners (in the Atlas case) being installed as well.

[mickey4479]

Personally, i don't think it's necessary to solder the joints. The joiners should be VERY tight when new, and as long as you don't pull them apart often, they will stay that way.

I agree with you.  I have over 300 feet of track and the joiners, especially the newer variety, are sufficient.  Now I will point out that on my first O scale layout I ballested my track and the older connectors or more likely my installation allowed some of the glue to get in those joints.  That might be a reason to solder the joints.