I blew it!!!

[HopperSJ]

Well, I'm finally facing the facts. I think I blew the wiring on my flashing signals! I've been slowly building my layout since last January taking one step at a time (this is my first permanent layout). For Christmas this year I received two flashing crossing signals (Lionel Banjo Singal 6-14149). They came with the presure switches but I planned on running them off an isolated rail since I am using Fastrack. This all souns great, right?

 However, just before Christmas I realized that I had never gotten around to isolating the rails and earlier this fall I had built permanent road crossings over the track. (Using foam I carved an approprate grade and then hand carved and stained planks of wood to act as the crossing planks. I hot glued all this down and it's not coming off without serious damage to my layout scernery.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to now trigger the signals when a train crosses? I could just wire a switch off the control panel and manually trigger them, but i'll feel like I compromised. I really want them to be automatic. I am hoping there is some trick that a newbie, like myself, is unaware of. What wiring/switch options do I have?

[Anonymous]

Don't feel bad, I did the exact same thing.....I went to the local train store and talk to the guys, they said with Fastrack, the best choices are, to buy either an IRAD at 40 bucks or an activation track at 10 bucks, with the IRAD, you wouldn't need to remove your track. I choose the activation track, I didn't have to tear up any detailed scenery as in your case. Maybe someone out there has a way to isolate Fastrack without any problems.....  

[dennyblock]

I've heard about infared controllers you place along side of your track, when the train breaks the light beam the gate works. It looks like a metal box you often see along theside of the road, good luck.

[lionelsoni]

Consider sawing or grinding through the rail on the top and cutting through the table from underneath to cut the straps that tie the outside rails together.  If you have an example of the track section(s) used and measure carefully, you may be able to drill or holesaw holes in just the right places to get a tapered saw blade in.  The hole doesn't have to be big enough to complete the cut, since you can cut a kerf (slit) in the table once you get the tip in there, then cut the metal strap.

[chadw]

You could use an insulated contact strip like in the old marx sets.  You can make your own by putting electrical tape on the raile and crimping thin brass or tin sheet around it.  Just make sure the sheet never touches the rail.  Then wire the sheet as you would an insulated rail.

[HopperSJ]

You know, my first thought was the infrared controllers. But I have trains going both directions over four crossings which means up to eight controllers @ $40 a pop. I also don't have too much open space on my layout to fit those controllers. How big are they anyway?

Well, it's a good suggestion and maybe I should follow it if no one else has any other ideas.

Now that I think of it, I may be able to use one controller to cover a couple of crossings on (near) parallel tracks. How close do they need to be to the train and do they need to be at exactly 90 degrees so the beam bounces directly back? 

[HopperSJ]

Chad and Lionelsoni - WOW great suggestions. I hadn't thought of either of those ideas. That's exactly why I posted!

Keep 'em coming and we'll get this solved right quick!

[Buckeye Riveter]

When they build doll houses, there is a tape with conductive strips that is used to wire the lights.  I wonder if this tape could be used right on top of a rail.  I never have tried it, but it is just a thought.

[jefelectric]

When they build doll houses, there is a tape with conductive strips that is used to wire the lights.  I wonder if this tape could be used right on top of a rail.  I never have tried it, but it is just a thought.

Buckeye, I didn't know you built dollhouses!  I don't think that would work though, the tape is insulated on both sides as it is sandwiched between thin plastic.  You need to pierce it to make contact.

Here is an IR device that mounts under the layout.  I have two but have not installed them so can not comment on operation.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83232

[Buckeye Riveter]

When they build doll houses, there is a tape with conductive strips that is used to wire the lights.  I wonder if this tape could be used right on top of a rail.  I never have tried it, but it is just a thought.

Buckeye, I didn't know you built dollhouses!  I don't think that would work though, the tape is insulated on both sides as it is sandwiched between thin plastic.  You need to pierce it to make contact.

Here is an IR device that mounts under the layout.  I have two but have not installed them so can not comment on operation.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83232

John, built one and that was enough.  I pulled the tape apart for some reason....oh, I remember if was how you made a splice at a 90 degree turn.

[kpolak]

Z Stuff for trains has sensors http://www.z-stuff.net/DZ-1205.htm that are installed under the track to control water tower animation.  $5.00 pr.

But I'm not sure how they work, or applications they can accommodate.  The site doesn't go into specifics.

Kurt

[pbjwilson]

When they build doll houses, there is a tape with conductive strips that is used to wire the lights.  I wonder if this tape could be used right on top of a rail.  I never have tried it, but it is just a thought.

Yep, the dollhouse tape works well. I've used it on my Christmas layouts. Simple and reliable.

Heres a picture of a test track. The tape is adhesive backed and sticks to the rail. Then you peel back a plastic protective coating to reveal the copper strip. Connect a wire to the copper strip and you have an insulated trip track.

[daan]

The option with the copper tape is excellent! If you want to use sensors, simply use one diagonal across the track. I have a small infrared sensor between the tracks, looking upward. It's in the middle of the crossing, but has the disadvantage that the lights start when the train is already on the crossing. Not a good idea in reality.

Adding a magnet to the train and a reed switch between the tracks is cheaper, but you have to use a time relais to keep the signal after the reedswitch is triggered. The best option still is an insulated railpiece.

[Roger Bielen]

I've used the Z-Stuff IR units that look like dwarf block signals.  One warning the switching circuit doesn't handle the load of a pair of flashing crossbucks so you will need to use them to trip a relay and the relay that is compatible is their's that is used with the DZ switch machine.  If you use the other product suggested you may also need the relay.

[HopperSJ]

Thanks all, for the suggestions. I think I am going to try the "tapewire" (as I learned that it is called) route. I like the infrared dwarf signal switches from z-Stuff a lot, but also like the "traditional aspect" of an isolated rail. I also found myself falling for more of the z-Stuff "stuff" and my order was growing exponentionally. If I go with the tapewire, it should cost $5 and nothing more and I can always add relays and sound later (which I will probably do). If it doesn't work, I can always go back to z-Stuff.

 I'll let you know how it turns out.

[trainbrain]

Chadw's idea will be the easiest.  Thw article how to do this was in CTT last year(2006).  I don't know which because I sold em all.  You geta .005 brass sheet at the LHS and cut to fit over the rail tops.  To insulate this, use 1" elec tape over over the rail tops 1st.  Solder the wire to the strip 1st.  Then super glue the strip to the taped rail,  touching tape only.  THis is easy and quick and does the same as an insulated rail.

[HopperSJ]

OK, for $11 I bought some tapewire at my LHS. It works wonderfully as an insulated rail. I cut it to length, peeled off the top protective plastic, peeled off the paper backing and it stuck right down. This stuff REALLY sticks and adds almost nothing to the rail dimentions. I was amazed at how insulated the tapewire was, even where I cut the ends. There was no conduction.

Here's where I went wrong: I didn't have anyplace to solder the wire to. I was so careful to place the tapewire right on the top of the rail I had no significant copper on the side of the rail. Without soldering directly on top of the rai, I couldn't do it. I spent over one hour trying to peel the insulation off the back of second piece of tapewire and never really succeeded. I did peel it off one slice, but the connection to the original piece was flakey and inconsistant. I think If I had finished my piece off by hanging it over one edge, I would have been more successful. I'll try again tomorrow if my patience is restored.