The local hobby shop here in Marysville redeemed themselves..
The guy was very nice. Has a HUGE HO layout, but does sell a nice selection of Lionel, MTH, and Williams O gauge. He was willing to GIVE me the wire..but it was 18 or 20 gauge. When I told him what I was doing, he said I was probably better off with 16 or 14 gauge. But he gave me great tips on the Woodland Scenics stuff...
To curve it, you have to cut pie slices out of it. He said yellow glue is great for glueing it down. He did say that the clear caulk was a good idea as well. As for ballast, he said that for O gauge, he uses kitty litter, and if I'm looking for another color, to dye it with clothing dye in a bucket. But with it about 64" high, he questioned the need to ballast. No one is really going to see it..better off focusing on the backdrop scenary and the mountains into the walls. He "lent" me a DVD on different techniques for scenary, etc. It's geared toward HO, but the techniques are the same he said.
So, I'm off the Lowe's for the wire...
Yallaen
I have large rolls [500'] in the farm shop of red, green, black, white, yellow and blue in #14 copper stranded from Lowe's. I am not sure if you can buy all of those colors by the foot. But if you can get black or red for Hot and white for Common, by the foot, you will be in business.
jaabat wrote: yallaen wrote: Man..14 awg for my little shelf layout seems like overkill..considering one engine, a couple switches...about 50' of track...If you weren't going to take the advice, why did you ask for it?
yallaen wrote: Man..14 awg for my little shelf layout seems like overkill..considering one engine, a couple switches...about 50' of track...
Man..14 awg for my little shelf layout seems like overkill..considering one engine, a couple switches...about 50' of track...
If you weren't going to take the advice, why did you ask for it?
First, I asked for the advice to solicit input and options. I was just stating that it seemed like overkill, but since everyone said 14 AWG, that's what I'm getting..
But why the attack? That was kind of a cheap shot..I've had great advice on this forum, and then I get the little msg from you. Was it really necessary? Sorry, I took it wrong and felt it wasn't warranted. That's the kind of attitude that tends to run people off. Off the now...
BTW, this is mainly a long straight-away with two loops at each end.
Running to the local hobby store for a couple odds and ends...and then to either Radio Shack or Lowes for the wire. I need to paint the boards..but I got pics of where I'm at..which is about 85% done with the main shelf/runs.
Bob Nelson
The terminal strip [R. Shack]is a good idea and enables you to neatly run additional hot track feeders to thwart any voltage drop along the rails on powering your oval. Also Radio Shack has "jumpers" that you can cut and attach on the T-strip to energize the side-by-side terminal screws and multiply the outputs for future wire runs.
I agree on #14 wire size but #16 will probably do for now in your case. Haven't seen wire at the Shack larger than #20-22. Go to NAPA, Auto Zone,etc, for wire or to an automotive fastener dealer. With the relatively small electrical load you are running I would use a 5-7 amp fast blow cartridge fuse [Shack] instead of a breaker. Engine motor wires and the solder traces used as circuits on control boards are miniscule and fragile.
If you can find an old timey Autolite cartridge fuse block it will serve as both fuseholder and terminal strip.
You can use as small wire as you want; but protect it with the appropriate fuse or circuit breaker. (The ampacity--the current that the wire can safely carry--drops by half every 4 AWG sizes.) But then you have to live with that amount of current. If 5 amperes is all you need, use 20 AWG and protect it at 5 amperes.
But another consideration is voltage drop. If you should find that you need a feeder to the far end of the layout, 20 AWG is still safe for 5 amperes but won't do you any good in reducing the voltage drop. The track itself is very roughly equivalent to 16 AWG; so feeders generally need to be a little heavier than that to do much good.
On the other hand, 50 feet of track with decent joints in a loop, if that's what you have, is about the same as 12.5 feet of straight track as far as voltage drop is concerned, because the farthest point is really only 25 feet away and being fed from two directions in parallel. There's an excellent chance that voltage drop is no problem in that case.
yallaen wrote:Man..14 awg for my little shelf layout seems like overkill..considering one engine, a couple switches...about 50' of track...
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Guess I'm heading to Radio Shack and O'Reilly this afternoon, as I'm getting really close
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
14 gauge wire is what I use. It's probably overkill, but better to be safe than sorry. Also, I use red insulated wire for power lines and black for grounds.
Jim
Ok, since my TW transformer does not have a circuit breaker...
Should I put a fuse between the transformer and fuse? WHat about a circuit breaker?
And for O-22 switches...where do the plastic pins need to go to prevent shorting/arcing?
I need to go buy a SC-2 controller for my switches...and get that placed somewhere..
Finally, what gauge wire should I use to run power to the track? I was thinking of using a terminal block from the transformer..and then running the two power leads from the terminal block to opposite ends of the track, making sure that they are both wired the same.
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