Pesky Lionel streetlights - a simple solution lots of pics

[johnandjulie13]

Paul:

I don't know what's in those fumes that you are inhaling, but it seems to give you a lot of creativity.  Nice job!  I can see that solution being adapted to buildings and other accessories.  Instead of an acorn nut, some other metal conductor could be used to make the connection to the wired screws.  As the Guiness guys say...Brilliant!

Regards,

John O

[Anonymous]

I visit this forum every single day, I swear I learn something new each time, thank you all and keep posting.......tom

[Anonymous]

How I wish I had consulted you prior to installing streetlights on my own layout recently!

I have four postwar metal streetlights from a "Miniature Lamp Company" probably affiliated with the Cobler Company. They were my father's and had the old white wire and copper base top.

Well, the wires and lights were shot, so I removed and disposed them. I replaced them with the pre-wired 14v Life-Like lights. The problem is, those things have wires that are like gossamer. It took me FOREVER to strip the ends of the wires, crimp them onto real layout gauge wire, get them under the table, and connect them to my central accessory power board. And this was for FOUR lights!

Your solution is simple, elegant, and sturdy.

[Dr. John]

A simple but elegant solution. Great idea, Paul! Thanks for sharing the pics.

[phillyreading]

For longer life of the light bulb drop the voltage by one to three volts, the light may look a little dimmer but this will extend the life of the light bulb.  If it is an incandescent light bulb you can put it on D.C. or battery voltage without doing any harm, don't know about LED lights.

A.C used to blow my Mazda lights quickly so I put them on a Radio Shack D.C. 12 volt power source that I bought at a yard sale and put ten lights in the set-up to lower the wattage.

Lee F.

[traindaddy1]

Now, if we can only come up with a solution for Lionel Highway Lights (12804). Those wires are so thin and are connected to the bulb itself.  To replace a bulb, the entire combo (bulb and attached wire) has to be reassembled through the light pole. Thank goodness that the bulbs last awhile but they are a pain to replace.

[USNRol]

Very Well Done.

Thanks for the post!

USNRol

[Birds]

Paul,

Thank you for posting these pictures and instructions!

Chris 

[pbjwilson]

I have always shyed away from Lionel streetlights because of the complicated installation. The wires that come out the bottom of the streetlights are short and the wire thin. Connecting up the wires under a train table was always a chore.

I came up with a simple solution and it works great for a portable or temporary layout.

The materials I used . #4 screw, length as required to go through your table. #4 nuts. #4 acorn nut. Wire connector. Wire, I used 20 gauge stranded wire.

The wires on the streetlights were trimed and glued to the mounting holes of the light. I simply used model glue to "melt" the plastic and held the wire in place till it set up and dried.

I drilled holes through my train table using the lamp base as my guide. The holes measure 1 1/8" apart. I cut wire to the lengths required and connected them together with the looped wire connector, using a crimping tool.

The assembly parts as they appear when installed (screw head and looped connector under the table, nuts and light and acorn nut on table top).

What you see on the table top. 2 nuts were necessary to make contact with the wires on the lamp base.

Lamp installed.

Power on!

This really made installation easy. Took me a couple hours to put these three streetlights in. Now that I've done it the next stretch of roadway will be a breeze. Hope this helps others with getting light on their own layouts.