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022 ?

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  • Member since
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  • From: Southern NH
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Posted by trainbrain on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 6:10 PM

I can't test it now.  My trusty Radio Shack multimeter is not so trusty.  It needs new batteries.  I'll try tomorrow.

Thanks

Only by the grace of God go I.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 3:52 PM

Sounds like it must be the coil or the internal switch that disconnects it or the wiring associated with these two things.  With the turnout in the straight position, all power removed, plug out, and the lamp removed, can you measure any conductance between the center rails and the diverging-path control rail?

Bob Nelson

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  • From: Southern NH
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Posted by trainbrain on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 3:19 PM
The switch bulb lights with both fixed voltage and track power.  I've got it narrowed down to the switch WILL move from curve(red) to straight(green) both by the controller and  using the nonderail on the straight when the switch is curve.  What DOESN"T happen is the contoller moving the switch from straight(green) to curve(red) and the nonderail won't work moving the switch from straight to curve.  I've tried 2 controllers both with the same result.  Thanks
Only by the grace of God go I.
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Posted by DCmontana on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 2:05 PM
I had trouble with three of my 022 switches, I have six on the layout.  The problems were somewhat similar to yours, wouldn't switch with the controller, problems with the derailing feature, etc.  I cleaned them up, used oil in the appropriate places (after reading that WD-40 evaporates) and walla, I'm back in business and they all operate slick on 14 volts!  WD-40 works great to clean them up, but you have to use a little oil to keep them working smoothly!
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Posted by phillyreading on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 10:00 AM

Have you tried cleaning the solenoid contacts inside the switch motor area?  Sounds like you have dirty contacts preventing the solenoid from getting voltage to throw the switch.  Post war 022 switches can use 18 volts to work properly and need to be cleaned regularly or this problem may return again.  Also look at the inside wiring, a wire may have come loose.

Lee F.

Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 9:10 AM
Does it work on track voltage, that is, with the plug removed?  Does the anti-derailing feature work with the controller disconnected?

Bob Nelson

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Posted by chuck on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 8:46 AM
You mave have a cold solder joint to the center rail moveable switch point.  This is hard to diagnose beause it looks OK and may work if you press down on the points to force contact.  If you disassemble the switch, look at the "top side" under the craft paper insulator.  There may be a bad solder connection under there.
When everything else fails, play dead
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Posted by Blueberryhill RR on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 8:36 AM

Just a thought....I tried this with mine.  Attach a wire to the center post on the switch, and run it to the outside rail of the track. It's a ground. Might work. Either that or you have a short in your switch controller.

Chuck

Chuck # 3 I found my thrill on Blueberryhill !!
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022 ?
Posted by trainbrain on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 7:07 AM

With 16 volts fixed voltage, my switch lights nice but when the controller wires are  attached, the switch won't switch and the derailing won't work either.  The ins pins are correct and I didn't see any broken wires in or under.  The wires are attached correctly, too.  Any ideas?

Thanks

Only by the grace of God go I.

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