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Questions about prepping an finishing foam as decking

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Posted by Jumijo on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 10:10 AM

I used 2" foam panels on my layout. I covered the seams between panels with plaster cloth and joint compound. Although this worked out well scenery-wise, I think it has contributed greatly to the noise of the FasTrack. In hindsight, I would have used duct tape to cover the seams and landscaped over that. I used this technique to hide wires embedded in the foam with excellent results.

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by daan on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 8:55 AM

The trick with foam is that you should use paints and glues based on water. Latex mostly is based on water, and also coveres small gaps. If you have big gaps to fill, you could mix sand through the latex or use masking tape under the paint. Also the white type of woodglue is a water based glue and can be used. If you have any left overs, store them somewhere to try out paint and glue before you apply it on the layout.

A note if you want to model water or use hotmelt, the pouring stuff which mimics water heats up and eats through the foam, hotglue makes holes in it and you can't stick anything to it. On the other hand, trees and bushes can be sticked into the foam.

Daan. I'm Dutch, but only by country...
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Posted by kblester on Monday, January 8, 2007 3:04 PM

Edit: Sorry working two threads at same time. This question should have been in the % of grades thread.

I do not have any grades on my platform. I was wondering what the grade is for the Lionel trestle sets that lifted the train up and over on an 031 circle or in a figure 8?

PLATFORM??? I'm not wearing a hat so I don't know where I pulled that term from. (old term for layout?) My 89 year old Mom calls it a train platform, knowing she also calls the place where you stand to get on the train, a platform.

Ken

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Posted by lionelsoni on Monday, January 8, 2007 2:40 PM
You're a miracle worker, Ken!

Bob Nelson

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Posted by kblester on Monday, January 8, 2007 2:16 PM
 lyle_styles wrote:

Good Morning Birds,

One thing that may be very important when using foam sheets is that you have sufficient cross bracing beneath the foam if you are using it for the subroadbed.  Seeing that the pieces are 2'x8', it may not be much of problem but even with 2" foam, it can be snapped or cracked if you would ever need to climb on top to do any type of work.

You certainly would hate to have to replace a foam section after you have spent time adding the scenery deep into your layout project.

When you do your scenery work on the foam, you probably will want to make sure that you conceal the blue color.  Many of the articles and comments from others will recommend that you paint the foam a light brown or another color that fits into your scheme of your scenery to blend in with the grass or other material you may be using for the scenery. 

If the gap size of the seams are really noticeable, you may want to either fill them in or cover with some type of tape.  Remember though that whatever you use on the seams that it be compatible with the foam.  Some types of caulking will eat the foam and there may be some types of tape that would do similar.  Even plaster or a similar type product such as Hydrocal can be used to fill in your seams if the seams are minimal.

You had mentioned the indoor/outdoor carpet.  I believe that others have used something like this on their layouts after seeing all the cool pictures of others layouts.  An option to the indoor/outdoor carpet would be a product called "grass mats".  It comes in many different sizes and colors and from quite a few different retailers or suppliers.  One tip for the grass mats would be not to glue it down completely or even not to use glue to fasten it down at all.  There are other options for adhering it your layout such as staples or tape.  If you would ever wish to redo your layout or reuse the grass mats, if it is completely glued down you would destroy most of it trying to lift or remove it from your layout.

Hope some of this may help and apologize for rambling on.

Lyle

Lionelsoni,

Does this font size make it easier to read? Regards, Ken

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Posted by Birds on Monday, January 8, 2007 9:43 AM

Lyle,

Thank you for the reply.

I will be using joists spaced 12" apart.  This way there is a joist at each foam seam, and one in the middle of the foam's two foot spread.  I am also considering 1/8" luan over the joists, and then foam over the luan.  The idea is to keep the whole table light enough to move it in the basement if there is a need (guests, an indoor pool, flooding), and still have something that will be sturdy, hold track, and absorb sound.

Thank you for sharing about painting the foam, and sealing the seams.  That gives me some ideas to keep in the back of thought as I build this.  Going with painting or carpet will probably end up being one of those decisions made after I see how the table and decking look before the track goes on.

Thank you again for your reply. 

Chris 

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
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Posted by lionelsoni on Sunday, January 7, 2007 9:40 AM
Too small for me to read, even after the cataract operation...;-)

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    April 2005
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Posted by lyle_styles on Sunday, January 7, 2007 8:20 AM

Good Morning Birds,

One thing that may be very important when using foam sheets is that you have sufficient cross bracing beneath the foam if you are using it for the subroadbed.  Seeing that the pieces are 2'x8', it may not be much of problem but even with 2" foam, it can be snapped or cracked if you would ever need to climb on top to do any type of work.

You certainly would hate to have to replace a foam section after you have spent time adding the scenery deep into your layout project.

When you do your scenery work on the foam, you probably will want to make sure that you conceal the blue color.  Many of the articles and comments from others will recommend that you paint the foam a light brown or another color that fits into your scheme of your scenery to blend in with the grass or other material you may be using for the scenery. 

If the gap size of the seams are really noticeable, you may want to either fill them in or cover with some type of tape.  Remember though that whatever you use on the seams that it be compatible with the foam.  Some types of caulking will eat the foam and there may be some types of tape that would do similar.  Even plaster or a similar type product such as Hydrocal can be used to fill in your seams if the seams are minimal.

You had mentioned the indoor/outdoor carpet.  I believe that others have used something like this on their layouts after seeing all the cool pictures of others layouts.  An option to the indoor/outdoor carpet would be a product called "grass mats".  It comes in many different sizes and colors and from quite a few different retailers or suppliers.  One tip for the grass mats would be not to glue it down completely or even not to use glue to fasten it down at all.  There are other options for adhering it your layout such as staples or tape.  If you would ever wish to redo your layout or reuse the grass mats, if it is completely glued down you would destroy most of it trying to lift or remove it from your layout.

Hope some of this may help and apologize for rambling on.

Lyle

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Mid Atlantic
  • 614 posts
Questions about prepping an finishing foam as decking
Posted by Birds on Saturday, January 6, 2007 6:25 PM

I finally found blue 2" foam locally to use as bench decking.

I plan on using seven 2 ft. x 8 ft. pieces for my 6 x 14 ft. table.  This will leave six seams along the length of the layout.

  • Do you cover or mask the seams so there is a smooth transition?  If so, what have people used?
  • Have people painted and glued roads and grass directly on the foam, or do you cover it with something first?

The other option I am thinking about is going with a green indoor outdoor carpet over the foam.

Thanks,

Chris 

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