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"Cold Start" squeak

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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, January 19, 2007 3:10 PM

Thanks, Tek. Maybe I'll ask David Doyle or Ray Plummer to write one. I'll want a cut of the action of course!

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 19, 2007 2:24 PM

jaabat - I just hit up my local libraries and found many different editions of "Greenberg's Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains 1945-1969", and Ray L. Plummer's "Beginner's Guid to Repairing Lionel Trains".

The first two Greenberg editions (1978 and 1990) didn't reference my specific model number.  The seventh edition Greenberg (1998) did and seems more complete.  (I wouldn't have thought the edition would matter that much with a 50 year old topic, but I guess it did.)

Plummer's guide is much thinner (trains.com has an article in its CTT Restoration & Repair section which is essentially a synopsis of a good portion of this book).  The book did however have the best diagram I've found yet identifying lubrication points.  However the diagram was confusing because its labeled telling you to oil the gear teeth and to grease everything else (which to my understanding is exactly backwards, and thus very confusing to this newbie). 

Plummer's guide did identify my "cold start squeak" point as the Armature Shaft.  Just a tiny bit of oil applied when needed keeps my old steam loco running smooth.

Here's the link to Plummer's article, "Getting that old train running again".  http://www.trains.com/ctt/default.aspx?c=a&id=543

jaabat, unfortunately I didn't find the perfect troubleshooting book organized by problem.

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Posted by ben10ben on Friday, January 19, 2007 9:12 AM

You can get the book Bob mentions for $265 from Half.com. If you really want to save money, go to Amazon, where you can get it for $60.

By the way, I have a copy of that book(for which I paid $8). Although it does have some good information, it's more geared toward the "I just found a train at a yard sale/flea mark/in the attic and I want to get it running again." As a matter of fact, the first chapter is titled "opening the box" and approaches the subject with the premise that you've just found the train. 

I'm not sure it's a book that you would find too terribly helpful, although I would certainly suggest picking it up if you can find a copy for a reasonable price(i.e. MSRP or less). 

Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, January 19, 2007 9:07 AM

I thought you made a typographical error on the price, Bob. But you didn't. $295.00 is what they want for it.

I was born at night - but not last night!

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, January 19, 2007 9:00 AM

You can get Plummer's "Beginner's Guide to Repairing Lionel Trains", if that's the title you're looking for, from Abebooks--for less than $300, including shipping!!

http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=681980310&searchurl=sts%3Dt%26an%3Dray%2Bplummer%26y%3D8%26x%3D55%26sortby%3D2

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, January 19, 2007 8:33 AM

Thank you, Ben. I download many files from Olsen's site and find them to be of some help. Especially in the way of part numbers.

But what I'd really like to find is a book that teaches or explains how to diagnose a certain problem, then how to fix it. I thought I had a bead on Ray Plummer's book "Toy Train Repair Made Easy". But after I had ordered it, the place called me back to tell me none were left in stock. As this book is now out of print, I have limited options for finding one. 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by ben10ben on Friday, January 19, 2007 8:10 AM

Jim,

I have the repair manual that K-line used to publish. It's a nice hardbound book that contains reproductions of the orignal service papers and so forth from Lionel. It's fairly comprehensive, with only a handful of things missing. 

If you ever need something that's not in the manual, chances are you can find it for free on the Olsen's train repair website.

I paid $13 for my(new) copy a couple of years ago at Davis Trains. 

Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, January 19, 2007 5:50 AM
 Tek34 wrote:

Your right Ben10, the squeak is back, and oiling seems to be a temporary solution.  I've isolated the problem to what I believe is a corroded motor axle.  I've cleaned the outside axle and motor plate, but I think your correct that I need to get inside and clean in there.  I got a couple of Lionel repair books, including one specifically for post war, but both books skip the #2018.  Is there another numbered loco I could refer to that is very similar to the #2018?

Ben10- Any guidence on how to safely clean inside this engine would be greatly appreciated.

I'm using Hob-E-Lube, Medium Oil HL663 (woodland scenics).  Is this a decent synthetic lubricant?    

 

Tek,

I'm looking for a book on post war repair. Which one did you buy and where did you get it?

Jim 

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 18, 2007 5:00 PM

One of the things you can do to improve your skills in maintenance of your toytrains is getting hands on a repair manual, a maintenance kit and a set of well fitting screwdrivers, because you can't reach everywhere when the shell is in place

Do they make a repair manual for Williams trains? Just curious. Is there a sort of generalized repair manual (for all toy trains, or just Lionel, etc.) you would recommend? Thanks!

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Posted by Red Line on Thursday, January 18, 2007 4:53 PM

Yes I know what you mean I have a number 2037 that also is a cold

start, the only thing different is I don't have the squeak. Like you

I have taken it apart and oiled and greased parts mention in the

owners manual. The engine ran better for a while but after a few

months it was almost back to the same thing again.  So I just

let it have its cold start and run it, by the way its been that way

for at least 10 years. my advise to you is to periodicaly oil it and

don't try to run it at full power until it worms up.

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Posted by ADCX Rob on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 12:02 PM
 Tek34 wrote:

...I got a couple of Lionel repair books, including one specifically for post war, but both books skip the #2018.  Is there another numbered loco I could refer to that is very similar to the #2018?

The 2016, 2018, 2036, 2037, 2029 are all very similar mechanically w/ different features.

I'm using Hob-E-Lube, Medium Oil HL663 (woodland scenics).  Is this a decent synthetic lubricant?    

That should be fine, when that is gone, buy a quart of Mobil 1 for $4-$5 to refill your oiler and you will be set for life with synthetic oil at a fraction of the hobby store price.

Rob

Rob

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 9, 2007 11:56 AM

Your right Ben10, the squeak is back, and oiling seems to be a temporary solution.  I've isolated the problem to what I believe is a corroded motor axle.  I've cleaned the outside axle and motor plate, but I think your correct that I need to get inside and clean in there.  I got a couple of Lionel repair books, including one specifically for post war, but both books skip the #2018.  Is there another numbered loco I could refer to that is very similar to the #2018?

Ben10- Any guidence on how to safely clean inside this engine would be greatly appreciated.

I'm using Hob-E-Lube, Medium Oil HL663 (woodland scenics).  Is this a decent synthetic lubricant?    

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Posted by ben10ben on Sunday, January 7, 2007 2:52 PM

One other thing: Oiling is great, but as has been mentioned, too much is a bad thing. Also, one of the biggest problems with old trains is that the old lubricants get tacky and tend to gum things up to the point where they cause problems. The best thing that can be done is take it apart and clean out all of the old lubricant, then oil and grease with a good synthetic lubricant.

We can provide you with plenty of guidance as to how to take your engine apart to do this. Just ask if it's something you'd like to attempt. 

Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 7, 2007 9:30 AM
Thanks guys.  I think that got it.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Saturday, January 6, 2007 2:11 PM

Do put a little oil on the centers of the gears; the grease is for the teeth.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by daan on Saturday, January 6, 2007 1:22 PM

The motor bearings are on the motor axle obviously. The first thing able to rotate is the motor, where the axle sticks out, apply a drop (only one!) of oil. Rollers do need oil too, but don't overdo it. Only a drop or two. The loco is not having a great time running in the squecking condition, since something has excessive friction and will wear out. On steamers also apply a drop of oil on the siderod pivot points and crancks.

A worm gear is not always in a locomotive. On most classic steamers the motoraxle is in line with the wheel axles, they have a simple straight gearbox. If the axle of the motor is angular to the drivewheel axle (mostly 90 degrees) the gearbox has a wormgear reduction. Wormgears don't need oil, but grease.

One of the things you can do to improve your skills in maintenance of your toytrains is getting hands on a repair manual, a maintenance kit and a set of well fitting screwdrivers, because you can't reach everywhere when the shell is in place. In the maintenance kit there should be a fine needle oiler, making it possible to reach difficult places and apply just a bit of oil.

If overoiling an engine it also harms, since oil will burn in the motor and it will spill on the tracks, resulting in wheelslip. Probably you could also drop the engine at a hobbyshop to let it maintained.

There is not such a thing as most important. Just maintenace as a whole is the most important thing that keeps your engine working nicely and therefore maintenance as a whole is the most important thing.

Daan. I'm Dutch, but only by country...
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"Cold Start" squeak
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 6, 2007 10:16 AM

I've got a bad "cold start" squeak that makes my loco creep and reduces its power by more than 50% for the first 2 or 3 laps.  It gradually subsides and it gains full power only for the squeak to return next time its rests for more than 10 minutes.  I'm attempting to rejuevenate my fathers '56 #2018 steam loco. 

1.) Does running the loco help it or can it do damage to it by running it in this condition? 

2.) I've cleaned the wheels and greased the gears exposed on the bottom.  The only other moving part I see underneath are two axles around the motor or something, sticking out on either side, that rotate in place.  Should I oil this?

3.) I've read lots of different things that can take oil, but as a newbie I don't know where on the train they are on the loco.  Where are the motor bearings or the worm gear and which are most important to maintain?

4.) Should I oil the rollers that ride on the middle track?

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