Removing track pins

[cnw1995]

 

 

Me too, Bob! Still running the Lionelosi Special.  I too push down on the pins - the ones on older pre-war track are the toughest. But it's pretty easy to crimp the track back again with the same needle-nose pliers. I have a mini-one.

[dwiemer]

Not a question here Bob, (for once), but I would like to Echo Chris' thoughts with regard to thanking you and the many others on this forum who have greatly increased the knowledge base of this site and our hobby.  I would certainly name a bunch of others, but will refrain so I won't leave anyone out.  Many folks have helped me though.

Dennis

[lionelsoni]

Chris ("Birds") sent me this:

Subject:
Thank you for all your CTT forums posts

Message:
Bob, I have been reading a lot of your old posts on track resistance and soldering track joints together. Thank you for taking the time over the years to share your knowledge and methods. You have answered many questions that have come to thought as I have been working through my permanent layout. I do have one question about preparing the track for soldering. Have you found a good method for removing track pins without flaring the track too much? I am using needle nose pliers and diagonal cutters and find that when I remove a pin I usually have to crimp the end of the track closed again. I want to make sure I give myself as much of a fighting chance as possible to solder the track joints. Thank you again for all you have shared. It has been very helpful. Chris MacDonald

You're welcome, Chris.  About the only trick I can suggest is to push the pin down after spreading the rail instead of trying to pull it straight out.  I usually use a pair of long-nosed pliers in an open position, with the tip of one jaw under the rail and the other on top of the pin as close to the rail as possible (to keep from bending the pin).  I find that I can get a pin out that way with less flaring than when I pull on it.  It's easier on the pin too, compared to grabbing it with the cutters.  But I still have to close the rail up afterwards.  I usually use a 3/32-inch punch inside the (O27) railhead to keep it in shape during this.