KW whistle lever not always sounding horn and still applies voltage when released.

[Birds]

Mike,

Thank you for your reply.

I had a feeling the KW's rectifier is at the heart of the problem.  While I feel comfortable doing the rectifier replacement myself, I still need to add a bell button at some point.

I also need to answer the question of additional power requirements for the long term, so I appreciate you sharing about the PowerMaster/PowerHouse combination and your experience with Willliams' trains using that setup.

Chris

 

 

[steinmike]

Chris:

I had the same problem with my KW - except that it happened when I was running a Williams RF-16 Sharknose with TrueBlast II.  Unfortunately, the rectifers in the KW don't last forever - and the KW can't operate the bell for you.  Depending on the availability / reliability / cost of the repair services near you, you might want to consider the purchase of a separate horn controller.  I ended up relegating the KW to power for my 022 switches, uncoupling tracks, and accessories and using TMCC to run trains - my Williams locomotives run great (especially at slow speeds) with the PowerMaster/PowerHouse combo.

Good luck!

Mike 

[Birds]

I have a KW.  Recently when I throw the whistle lever when running a Williams GG-1, the engine will speed up but the horn won't sound all the time (even after holding it a for a few seconds).  Sometimes it will sound.  Sometimes it will start to sound and then stop.  Sometimes it will not sound at all.

When I release the lever the engine will sometimes continue at the higher speed until I throw the lever again.

The rectifier disc in the KW is the original one.

Is this a sign that it is probably time to replace the whistle rectifier?

The spring on the whistle lever is still good, provides good resistance, and pulls the lever back to center.

Thank you,

Chris